S124 rear bearing replacement - help needed - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #46 08-22-2016, 02:54 PM

Irony and sarcasm tends not to get detected on this (American) forum!

spock505 · #47 08-23-2016, 07:13 AM

The biggest slide hammer I have ever seen..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Chxm_6irJ1g

..just wish I had watched this prior to going down that route

There seems to be huge variances with methods, for example PP use similar weight slide hammer as my own without issue, yet these guys are swinging 8 -10 kg sledge hammer - even then it took some pounding!

Mercedes-Benz W124 Rear Bearing Replacement | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Stretch · #48 08-23-2016, 10:21 AM

I gave up trying to read those Pelican articles long ago. Full of errors and mistakes.

spock505 · #49 08-23-2016, 02:22 PM

Made some progress today removing the hub itself, some good and bad news on that front.

The good news is small in relation to bad, small bushes all okay except larger one at bottom of hub knuckle.

Most of the rubber has gone leaving metal tube.

The bad new relates to the axle uni joint closet to wheel, boot intact with grease but feels to me too notchy moving from side to side - the diff end is a lot smoother, tomorrow will remove other side for comparison;.

Backing plates arrived, very good quality but unfortunately too small, and possibly too thick, not to worry will use elsewhere.

Pleased to say press arrived, around 100kg in three boxes but well packed.

Very good quality, and tbh over specified for job in hand but better safe than sorry as not the sort of item you can just pick up a ship back.

My work bench is a bit flimsy so pondering on using the I beams from this during down time in some way, perhaps a fold out from wall bench jobbie.

spock505 · #50 08-24-2016, 03:59 PM

Can anyone offer a definitive way of confirming ball joint wear/replacement.

Having watched two videos on 124 ball joints I cannot tell either way, this is one of the videos where the chap has taken apart the axle, unfortunately he doesn't tell you how to get the cover off - mine is similar to this, a bit notchy but I can see what's going on due to the large cover, there's no play at any angle in or out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lO6yI8FPhc0

Has anyone pulled the cover off to re-grease or is this a no no?

Kent (mercedes source) recommends swapping over to even out wear, this sounds like a good idea if sound - also my budget is gone out of the window, these twister arn't going to help at around $300 ea.

Zulfiqar · #51 08-24-2016, 04:57 PM

The way I deal with them is to remove the inner joint completely - which is very easy as its only held in by a circlip, then remove the joint, its boot and then slide the outer boot off the shaft.

I then proceed to wash the entire thing to remove any old waxy grease. I dont remove the tin can itself.

btw - the video you show is not quite applicable to the W124 - the axle in the video is from an older W123 or W126 with the can axles - those cans require some very expensive tooling to seal up and they are filled with gear oil from the factory too.

I have written the grease charge weight for the W124 rear axles somewhere. the outers take more than average CV joints due to that tin can. And use a good but slightly soft moly infused grease in them. You will also need a very small quantity of anaerobic sealant where the inner boot tin meets the joint itself, It effectively locks out infusion of water into the joint.

spock505 · #52 08-24-2016, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

The way I deal with them is to remove the inner joint completely - which is very easy as its only held in by a circlip, then remove the joint, its boot and then slide the outer boot off the shaft.

I then proceed to wash the entire thing to remove any old waxy grease. I dont remove the tin can itself.

btw - the video you show is not quite applicable to the W124 - the axle in the video is from an older W123 or W126 with the can axles - those cans require some very expensive tooling to seal up and they are filled with gear oil from the factory too.

I have written the grease charge weight for the W124 rear axles somewhere. the outers take more than average CV joints due to that tin can. And use a good but slightly soft moly infused grease in them.

Thanks bud, ironically the boots are in good shape, just want to pull it apart (reading too many Stretch threads, lol) to re-grease and make sure okay for wear.

is the cir-clip at the front or inside the can itself?

..ta

Zulfiqar · #53 08-24-2016, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spock505

Thanks bud, ironically the boots are in good shape, just want to pull it apart (reading too many Stretch threads, lol) to re-grease and make sure okay for wear.

is the cir-clip at the front or inside the can itself?

..ta

the circlip for the inner joint is under the outer most tin (the part that gets trapped in the flange on the diffy).

if you have taken apart old VW Golf/jetta joints - you are doing exactly the same here. Good thinking of refreshing the grease as there is nothing called 21 year old grease.

a good coat of hammerite on the shaft would also be a good idea (your car looks like it just arrived at the dry dock)

spock505 · #54 08-24-2016, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

the circlip for the inner joint is under the outer most tin (the part that gets trapped in the flange on the diffy).

if you have taken apart old VW Golf/jetta joints - you are doing exactly the same here. Good thinking of refreshing the grease as there is nothing called 21 year old grease.

a good coat of hammerite on the shaft would also be a good idea (your car looks like it just arrived at the dry dock)

Cool, is there circlip inside the large can, wheel end too?

spock505 · #55 08-24-2016, 05:41 PM

I went out to have another play around to see if it's shot, tipping on end swiveling it seems okay, just slightly tighter than the smaller end.

That would be good news budget wise.

If I can't get the joint out will suck out old grease using vacuum pump, then refill with new Moly Lube stuff.

Yes, dry dock on my drive lol, should have realised after seeing the speedo calibrated in knots..

Sugar Bear · #56 08-24-2016, 07:43 PM

I'm not saying Kent is wrong, he has a wealth of knowledge. It may have been coincidence; but, my axles were swapped side to side because they were out due to differential work. Have you guessed where this is going???...a short while after axles that had not exhibited any problems began making noise and needed to be replaced.

Been watching your bearing replacement thread and see that you are having a far more difficult time than I did. Judging by the pictures, it appears that mine went easier due to less corrosion.

Good luck and I would not swap the axles.

Mxfrank · #57 08-24-2016, 08:09 PM

The outer joint (tin can) can't be opened or serviced. It's possible to wash it out with solvent, but not possible to properly grease it afterwards. The best you can do is leave the old grease alone and squeeze a tube of CV lube into the can. Let it redistribute itself by centrifugal force. Best boots for this are Astoria boots. They are made of silicone rubber and very stretchy, and come with good clips. Since you can remove the inner CV, there's no need for boot expanders. Factory boots are thick rubber and tough to work with, and the clips don't always fit well. And they cost a king's ransom.

Tel.: 1-866-694-5369 - Home

Based on the rust on that upright, I'd bet you have more problems than just the axle. Now is the time to address anything that needs addressing.

Stretch · #58 08-24-2016, 10:06 PM

Probably a bit late but this might help

W201 annular axle re-boot – much easier than W123 homokinetic axles!

spock505 · #59 08-25-2016, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

I'm not saying Kent is wrong, he has a wealth of knowledge. It may have been coincidence; but, my axles were swapped side to side because they were out due to differential work. Have you guessed where this is going???...a short while after axles that had not exhibited any problems began making noise and needed to be replaced.

Been watching your bearing replacement thread and see that you are having a far more difficult time than I did. Judging by the pictures, it appears that mine went easier due to less corrosion.

Good luck and I would not swap the axles.

Regarding the variances between peoples experience removing hub flanges and/or bearings hard to say. The guys in the video look like some sort of garage who perform this job on a regular basis using their own fabricated tools.

Use of a threaded bearing tool is shown a bit later on when replacing bearing, but for hub flange removal a sliding 'sledge' hammer approach has been adopted.

Perhaps they have arrived at this method across many axles, not sure but it does replicate my own experience in terms of force needed. My last attempt used M12 x 1.75mm marine grade stainless, two studs driven in hard plus sliding hammer on the ends, both bent.

Using of backing plates may have worked but getting hold of/or fabricating these is not really an easy option - ordering the Audi tool from USA suppliers turned out to be very expensive due to weight.

Good video showing the use of backing plates on Vito although he does bend the first set.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rakV56r3O84

..and how the pro's do it ...oh my word what a rig..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59TnlB8-XzM

I'll post a bit later in reply to other posts, breaker bar has just given up

Zulfiqar · #60 08-25-2016, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

The outer joint (tin can) can't be opened or serviced. It's possible to wash it out with solvent, but not possible to properly grease it afterwards. The best you can do is leave the old grease alone and squeeze a tube of CV lube into the can. Let it redistribute itself by centrifugal force. Best boots for this are Astoria boots. They are made of silicone rubber and very stretchy, and come with good clips. Since you can remove the inner CV, there's no need for boot expanders. Factory boots are thick rubber and tough to work with, and the clips don't always fit well. And they cost a king's ransom.

Tel.: 1-866-694-5369 - Home

Based on the rust on that upright, I'd bet you have more problems than just the axle. Now is the time to address anything that needs addressing.

to grease a washed CV joint in this configuration I pack it all the way to the top and then push the grease in with assistance of a plastic bag wrapped around the shaft and opening. That action pushes it into the ball and cup area. After that exercise I scoop out some of the excess grease that is overflowing and leave about whatever was in there originally.

I found the napa CVJ grease packets to be great for this job. Its super stinky and nasty though.