I guess I should clarify. I am well aware of how to post images here. I don't have a way to scale images to fit within the file size limits via the software currently in use on my phone. So I tend to use a desktop to do so. It's actually pretty easy to post here using the desktop site, once the images are resized. I don't think I have ever tried via the mobile version of the site though.

Anyway, use whatever you want honestly. I have a way I like to operate, if you have a way you prefer - great.

I see you do not understand the concept. As long as this forum is up and running you can figure those pictures will be associated with and available for instructing those seeking advice in that thread.
Whether you ' plan on deleting your pictures ' makes no difference if that service GOES OUT OF BUSINESS.... which happened to a service which I had racked up many extra gigs of storage space. If you look around the web you will find many examples of url references to photos which do not link to anything any more... regardless of whether the original linker ' meant to delete them ' or not.

Edit .... after I went to bed I remembered the name of that photo storage site which went out of business... ' Photoisland ' ....

I might be mistaken about the model year 1983, but I think it might be earlier as I found some 1981 model year examples. Basically the first year of ACC III.

I have a Siemens evaporator box in my car. I don't have part number of those parts except for a sticker on the box that is printed 123 830 4058
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1469591488

On a side note, the heater core box is all behr manufactured.

More pics of a Siemens Evaporator box below.

Sorry to Demothen for hijacking your thread on evaporators.

I tried uploading the pic below to Peachparts replying to this thread from Mobile and was unsuccessful. I resized the pic to below the limit of 732.4 kb and the pic was uploaded but didn't appear. Even if it worked, it's too much work and I am not going to do it, period! The pic below was easily/ painlessly posted to Photobucket. Which would you prefer, no pic or a pic on Photobucket?

Red circled area shows the difference of my evap box (a Behr per DeliveryValve), compared to the Siemens box pics.

The aftermarket evap (note: no p/n provided) Klima Design Works | W123 Evaporator says "Replacement evaporator for W123. Fits 2 Ton systems. Use with HVAC housings 123 830 3258 or 123 830 4058. Copper tube with aluminum fins. Please note that this part is new rather than rebuilt."

Do you know what makes the Klima aftermarket evap fit both boxes but the OE Behr and Siemens not interchangeable? How does the evap mount within the box? Do you have any pics to show that?

Here is an Ebay listing Mercedes A C Evaporator W123 OEM NIB 000 830 46 58 | eBay for a genuine Mercedes NOS evap p/n 000 830 46 58 . Can you tell if it is a Behr or Siemens?

Behr
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...2009.29.56.jpg



Siemens
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...imenshvac4.jpg

No worries funola, I am curious which one I have. Of course it's a moot point if I cant source a new core.

Worried about what???

No worries about that :)

Anyway, If you were asking me how the Klima evap fits, I have absolutely no idea - they're trying to source one for me still.

I picked up on those markings you noted also just needed a couple of more angles to be sure.

From my experience, the Behr evaporator it was destinctively narrower than the Siemens. When I tried to installed it in the Siemens box, you could tell there would ba a gap within the housing as it was formed to accommodate the wider evaporator. But the main issue that prevented me to use it was the lines to the expansion (TX) valve would get in the way of the two shells of the housing from coming together.

I would imagine that this "Universal" type of evaporator core has the narrow width of the Behr but the TX valve lines are shaped to fit the Siemens box. I don't have a definite idea about the eBay evaporator but it may be for a Behr.

I am out of town right now and could take pictures of the Siemens evporator core and how it fits in the assembly next week.


.

No luck on sourcing a new evaporator. I'm still fairly convinced that I have a leak, or at the minimum need to clean the coil out of the car, so will be pulling the dash and will probably take it in to a radiator shop to let them clean and test it, since I dont have the right fittings to pressurize it out of the car anyway.

Hopefully I will get the rest of my new system next week, I will try to make a bit of a guide on some of the steps needed, particularly rebuilding the hose assemblies.

Not sure this will fit, but it's a part number that pops up as an evaporator.

123-830-14-58 EVAPORATOR | Genuine Mercedes-Benz OEM Parts


.

In the event that something does not allow that set of procedures to go forward....
here is a low tech backup which might work just fine...
take out the actual coil... needed in all cases.... clean the outside....and put it under water just like you would with a tire which had a slow leak.... and apply compressed air or better yet nitrogen to it... while under water... you can have a few drops of JOY dish washing soap in the water... you just need enough water to cover the entire unit... fittings would be nice... but likely you will find the leak with 3-5 psi introduced into the coils... you can accomplish that with a good wrapping of duct tape...
Then you might consider Silver Soldering the hole/s .... but remember that anytime you heat metal which is in an AC system you must have NITROGEN inside the unit..but not under pressure...as that will keep you from sealing the hole.. so it just needs to be running past the hole keeping oxygen from contacting the heated section..... to keep the metal from oxidizing and corroding in the future... which can make those Txvalve clogging bits to happen.
While the evaporator is in the low pressure side of the AC system... I still suggest that the solder itself not be used to stop the leak...a small piece of whatever the coil is made of ....aluminum or copper I assume..... bent to fit closely.... and held on by the silver solder is much preferred philosophy... as the strength per square inch of silver solder is amazing... one will be using ACID to clean the area in question since this is not dealing with electrical wire...which properly requires Rosen flux....
New things are happening in the welding field all the time.. so research is appropriate when beginning this operation...for instance..
Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod is not sold on Ebay US or Amazon

Thanks Leathermang,
I have exactly zero experience brazing, so I'm planning on letting a radiator shop deal with this one - they should be much better prepared for that sort of repair

Thanks!
I may order that to see if it fits or if I can modify the housing slightly to make it work, since it's fairly cheap. Apparently that evaporator fits housing 123-830-40-58. Tonight I'll try to figure out which housing I have.

Edit:
Decided to order this. Hopefully it fits without modifications to the housing, or possibly with minor modifications. If not, I'll probably sell it as a used part here to someone else who can use it.

I agree totally.... brazing can be tricky... since almost by definition it is putting together dissimilar metals.... yikes..... but also... as more ' old fashioned' radiator shops get farther and farther apart due to retirements... those with experience with more than JUST radiator experience may become a problem... as I have suggested in the past .. it may help to look slightly out in the country near a farming community for the radiator shop...
Also... a local community college welding instructor might have a wide range of experience with things other than straight copper radiator brazing.......
We are in a smaller and smaller set of people.... trying to keep really old cars going properly.... so some ' scrambling ' of cures may be needed....
Also....Hemmings Motor News.... has all sorts of specialized and experienced fixers of old car things... and ..... this may seem foreign to many these days... they MAY NOT EVEN BE CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET...much less have a website..... phone and snail mail ....may be the only way to reach them....

$87 is a great price for a genuine evap. I called them up (a Mercedes dealer) and they don't have anymore. However, they can get one from Germany for that price + shipping. I asked them to verify that price. They said the evap p/n as listed is a Behr and for w123 300D after chassis last 6 digit #009678. Before that is Siemens.

Huh. When i talked to them they said it was based on the part number of the housing but didnt mention the VIN. They also didnt mention shipping it from Germany. Maybe I got the last one in the States.

Changes in parts are listed by MB by VIN... so always good to include that if available...
I pulled the trans from a parts wagon for someone .. a 1979... and when they got home they found the difference was vacuum on one and not on the other...yikes...

I totally disagree with that info. I've seen quite a few w123's in the yards or working on them to know that both Siemens and Behr evaporators were installed any given date of manufactured greater than 1982 (although I did find some 1981 examples on the net so, so it could be earlier). In fact even with my own car that came with a Siemens Evaporator from the factory model year 1983, the chassis last 6 digits are in the 02xxxx range.



.


.

Good to know! I was merely repeating info given to me by the dealer.

I called back and gave them the VIN to my car that they asked for earlier and was told the evaporator for it is NLA, including Germany.

You actually were able to order it? Maybe you did get the last one in the country? Hope it fits! If it does it's a steal!

One thing I never mentioned in any of my threads regarding the rebuildING of my HVAC box, is all the vent flaps/doors in the box had deteriorating foam on them. All it would take was a garden hose to wash the old foam off. I ended up getting felt, cut to the correct shape of the old foam, and glueing them on the flaps. Not it really needs them, but I figured the foam is used to vibration dampening and to provide a seal on some of the flaps.


.

That's too bad. Maybe they were not using the 123 830 14 58 part number, but a different part number your VIN came up with.


.

How did you come up with the 123 830 14 58 part number and the place that had one for $87? I asked the dealer for a p/n of an evap that looks like mine and he gave 000 830 4658

Googled 000 830 4658 one of few results finds http://www.*********.com/ss/?make=Mercedes&ssq=W0133-1606814&brand=Thermal+Solutions which is NLA from Partgeek

Also found in https://www.polarbearinc.com/pbpc/homepage/Search/EV/MB_EV.html have not tried contacting them yet.

Amazing what you find on ebay. Probably won't find a new Sanden for $50 in the summer. Buy parts when you don't need them. Must browse liquidation sites and be patient. I'm not telling where I browse because don't need competition. Not for readers here, but imagine how many illiterates can't spell "carburetor" or "Edelbrock". You might luck out and run across a gomer auctioning a nice "Jagwire" car with no reserve.

When you asked me earlier if I knew the part number for a Siemens evaporator, I didn't know and did a quick search to see if I could find something. This part number came up, but I couldn't confirm what box it belongs to.

That link I provided from mbpartscenter shows on my phone's web browser that the regular price is $87, but they have it on sale for $60.84. I wish could make a screen print, but I cannot do that on my phone.

.

I think they left a zero out on both the regular and sale price.

I have that evaporator on order, not sure when it will get here yet or when I will have time to install it, but I will let you guys know if it fits with or without any modifications.

Here is the price at my local dealership. $87 regular price, $65.25.
EVAPORATOR | Genuine Mercedes-Benz | 123-830-14-58

So I would imagine leaving out the extra zeros is correct. :)


.

Not sure about that, it seems everyone has 123-830-14-58 for a low price. I called 2 local dealers and was told 123-830-14-58 is a Siemens evaporator, and no dealers in the US has it in stock and has to be ordered from Germany.

One dealer told me there is no way to tell by VIN whether the evap box is Siemens or Behr, that it must be verified by looking at the unit.

Can you double check that my box is not a Siemens? I would take a chance ordering a 123-830-14-58 if mine is a Siemens. I am suspicious there is a catch to the low price.

Can you tell me where the p/n is located on the box? I'd like to see if I can look at mine with a Borescope. It'd be nice if Mercedes put the p/n on the bottom where it is plainly visible instead of having to spend 15 hours shop time to rip it out to read it.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...imenshvac1.jpg

I found that tag could be anywhere on the box. The one that is actually on my car is on the side near the TX valve.

In your pic here, I see a yellow tag behind the TX valve. Check that, maybe there is a part number there.


.

Looks like I have the Behr evaporator housing, but with the Seimens part number on order. Measurements are very close between the two parts, so I might be able to make it work.

Here's the compressor after removal from the car. I had tightened the mounting hardware after it failed, which pulled the case halves back together, but you can see that the ear holding the outer cylinder in place bent under pressure.

I have my new R4 installed. I need to add the belt then torque everything down. The kit I used installed fairly easily. It's a bit different design than ROLLGUY's kit, but I think it should be fairly secure. I will be checking on it regularly for loose hardware, and will switch to prevailing torque (deformed) locknuts if there's any sign of the hardware backing off.

You mean you have your new Sanden installed?

Looking over my R4, the only thing that is keeping the casing from sliding is the bent sheet metal tab, not any of the mounting hardware. I'd say your compressor suffered an over pressure, which caused the case / o-ring to blow.

Yeah, the new Sanden is installed. I still have a ton of work before I can plumb it and charge the system though.

I think when the r4 is installed, the outer casing is pushed against the mounting bracket. Once the bolts are torqued, it means that the casing and center section are sandwiched on one side by the mounting bracket, and the other side by the bolts, so the casing can not move in any direction. I still have the compressor as well as the mounting bracket and hardware, so I might put it back together to get some pictures and make sure what really is happening. I think that when I torqued the mounting bolts, it pulled the case halves back together.

OK, I was looking at an R4 on the bench. So, when bolted onto the engine, the bolts keep the compressor case/ o-ring from blowing out? Did you find the 3 mounting bolts loose? How loose?

They were loose for sure. I had bolted the compressor roughly in place, tensioned the belt, then totally forgotten to go back and torque the bolts from under the car. They were maybe 1/8 to 1/4" from being tight.

I was out of town at the time I posted this part number. But the part number is definitely on the two Siemens Evaporators I have.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3627958-post29.html

From Demothen's rebuild thread.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/379951-85-w123-complete-ac-system-rebuild.html



.

Here is one place I found.

It was hiding behind the vent tube.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...phousingpn.jpg
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3628438-post33.html



.

Here are my stickers in the same general location. Sadly they are most gone and illegible. Too bad the p/n's are not stamped or injection molded into the plastic.

The compressor step washers just arrived. I have the compressor already mounted, TXV valve and all hoses mounted. Just need to install the compressor step washers, receiver dryer, fill with PAO 68 oil, evacuate, pressure test, if no leaks, evacuate and charge with R12 by weight.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...819_104515.jpg

Here's to hoping for success!

Thanks! The FSM says to install the step washers dry. Do you know the reason why? I have a theory.

I don't know. But I've done them that way. What's your theory.


.

When dry, the rubber seals can't squish and slide against the metal surfaces of the compressor and manifold. I'll get some pics of the old washers where the rubber got pretty distorted.

Old vs new step washers. Old ones are pretty squished/ distorted but surprisingly, still passed the pressure test with Argon. Rained here this afternoon so didn't get to work on the car.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...820_191001.jpg