Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-30-2016, 01:16 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 20
Electrical Gremlins - Window Circuit

Hello All, I have an '86 300 SDL that is having some electrical problems. It started when the drivers window switch broke, so I replaced it with the HAP branded switches from the Pelican Parts Catalog. I also replaced the rear passenger switch which is on the same circuit. Here's a rundown of what's happened since I replaced the switches.
  • I replaced the rear passenger switch first. It sent power to the motor but there is something else preventing the window from going down.
  • I replaced the drivers switch next. The window went down 1/2" and then the fuse blew.
  • The motor is fine. I connected it straight to the battery with the assistance of a friend and verified that it works well.
  • The new drivers switch was verified as good by connecting it to the passenger window circuit. It operated the window just fine.
  • The connectors for the switches in the console have been verified as not having a short within them.
  • The fuse would blow ever time the drivers switch was depressed. I never checked if it would do that when the rear passenger switch was depressed.
  • I did my best to verify the integrity of the wiring running through the door hinge. Everything looks good in there.

Then, after I purchased more fuses (25A) and verified that the fuse box contacts are not corroded, the problem changed. Now, the fuse blows when the key is turned to the accessory position. Every time, without fail. There is this W126 power window question thread from not too long ago where someone had some power window issues and the community pointed to relays, but since my other window fuse is totally fine....I don't know. I'm over here scratching my head.

I'm reaching out to the community for any advice, tips, tricks. Hopefully someone has dealt with a similar issue. Any responses are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-30-2016, 02:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,120
PS rear window not opening - probably bent window regulator or binding of the glass in the window channel.

Blowing of fuse when in accessory key position - probably short circuit in DS electric window wiring harness.
The wires fray after years of opening and closing the DS door.
__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-30-2016, 03:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
Blowing of fuse when in accessory key position - probably short circuit in DS electric window wiring harness.
The wires fray after years of opening and closing the DS door.
My understanding of the system is that the harness going through the door is dead until the window switch is depressed. When the fuse was blowing only when the switch was depressed, the harness through the door hinge was the first thing I was told to check. It is extremely hard to access that particular area, I did my best and to my best knowledge, the harness that goes through the door hinge is okay. With the fuse now blowing when the key is in the ACC position, it seems more likely that the live wire to the console switch has a short somewhere.

Thoughts?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-30-2016, 04:06 PM
jay_bob's Avatar
Control Freak
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 3,941
The window switches are arranged so that the wires going to the door are hot all the time.

This is so the back window switch can work.

See here: cleaning the window switch restored rear window
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-30-2016, 04:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,860
Have you tried brass fuses?

I was told that the aluminum fuses pit after time and even though they might LOOK good, they might not BE good. So they (?) increase resistance on other electrical things and cause problems. Change out all your fuses, they're very cheap. You can probably get a whole set for $15.

As far as the stuff on the inside of the door, the plastic guide rails might be toast, preventing the window from moving. Check to ensure all could work well, if the electric was working fine. Lube whatever needs to be lubed. Get rid of the old grease that has turned into peanut butter consistency over the years.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page