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  #1  
Old 08-05-2016, 08:10 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 35
Can I get some opinions on my total loss insurance claim battle?

I sadly find myself in the middle of my first car insurance claim battle and could use some help on what a reasonable figure to settle on would be.

What was a beautiful '84 300D now looks like this

Determined a total loss by the insurance company. Initially offered me $1900, but I mentioned involving a 3rd party appraiser and they bumped it up to $2900 which is where I'm at now. Should I go through with an appraiser? And how much do you think I should fight for in this situation?

Car had 275,000 miles. Engine runs perfect. Rebuilt auto trans. Tires new. Zero rust. Only two owners prior to me. Every feature in the car worked, sunroof, windows, antenna, etc... Hardly a crack in the dash. Here's some pics:

Body
Front
Interior
Dash

Any opinions you have on this process would be helpful! Just sad to see another one leave the road.

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  #2  
Old 08-05-2016, 08:25 PM
jay_bob's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
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Wow. Hope you are ok.

Definitely get yourself/passengers checked out, those cars did not have the whiplash protection of modern cars.

Assuming it was a rear end collision and you are not in one of those idiotic states where they assign blame proportionally and the simple act of being on the road makes you partially at fault.

In that case I'm not advocating going full lawsuit crazy but definitely make sure you do not have latent damage to your neck/spine that does not show up until later. Definitely retain counsel, but not an ambulance chaser that advertises on the local UHF station or the back of the phone book. I pray it was not a hit/run or undocumented "visitor" with no insurance that hit you.

As for the car, a professional appraiser by a classic car expert, and records go a long way.

I would recommend buying back the wreck and parting it out or getting it fixed. Unless you got sandwiched badly that front end, drive train, and interior can live on another day either for you or someone else. If you can at all help it, don't send it to the yard, it will get hacked up by people removing parts carelessly and then get crushed in 2 weeks.

I went through this on my 98, in my case, the damage was deeper than they first thought, the other party's insurance agreed to fix it due to the pre-accident condition and the fact that it is was 0% my fault (other party cut across a parking lot and literally blindsided me). So by the time they got it all apart and saw it was worse than originally thought they went ahead and paid the full amount to fix it.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #3  
Old 08-05-2016, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Hagerty quote high values, but perhaps you could use their site in discussions with insurance company (or appraiser)

https://www.hagerty.ca/apps/valuationtools/1984-Mercedes~Benz-300D

or NADA:

1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D-T Value | 4 Door Sedan Prices and Book Value

I have my 85 300d with similar mileage insured for $5000 through Hagerty Classic agreed value insurance and they would pay that in case of a total loss. If I were to sell it, I think I would be lucky to get $3500, but would ask $4000.
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2016, 08:53 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Without knowing the details:

get involved with the adjusters

gather all the pictures you have of the vehicle and send them

begin searching in your area for excellent condition examples - call the seller. you must get some 'dealers' incorporated into this data.

Make a list of all vehicles for sale with phone numbers of the seller

Gather as many as possible. It is a few days of work to get enough. ten at least, and make sure they are willing to talk to the insurance co.

I got 6500 for my w123 w 224k miles in a situation that could have been a lawsuit. This amount will likely depend on the adjuster and the company.

that is the best start. good luck
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  #5  
Old 08-05-2016, 08:55 PM
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the vehicle list must include examples that are comparable to yours in mileage
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  #6  
Old 08-05-2016, 09:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Wow. Hope you are ok.

Definitely get yourself/passengers checked out, those cars did not have the whiplash protection of modern cars.

Assuming it was a rear end collision and you are not in one of those idiotic states where they assign blame proportionally and the simple act of being on the road makes you partially at fault.

In that case I'm not advocating going full lawsuit crazy but definitely make sure you do not have latent damage to your neck/spine that does not show up until later. Definitely retain counsel, but not an ambulance chaser that advertises on the local UHF station or the back of the phone book. I pray it was not a hit/run or undocumented "visitor" with no insurance that hit you.

As for the car, a professional appraiser by a classic car expert, and records go a long way.

I would recommend buying back the wreck and parting it out or getting it fixed. Unless you got sandwiched badly that front end, drive train, and interior can live on another day either for you or someone else. If you can at all help it, don't send it to the yard, it will get hacked up by people removing parts carelessly and then get crushed in 2 weeks.

I went through this on my 98, in my case, the damage was deeper than they first thought, the other party's insurance agreed to fix it due to the pre-accident condition and the fact that it is was 0% my fault (other party cut across a parking lot and literally blindsided me). So by the time they got it all apart and saw it was worse than originally thought they went ahead and paid the full amount to fix it.
Thanks so much for the reply.

My passenger and I felt some neck stiffness for a couple days, but neither of us have gone for professional help. Maybe I will look into seeing someone just for precautionary reasons.

The driver admitted complete fault. We were at a stop on a highway and were hit by him, so I feel I have control of the negotiating process. I've made contact with one appraiser who would only cost $150. So I think it'll be worthwhile to hire them on.

And I kind of assumed I'd get to keep the car in addition to the payment, but I have to 'buy' it from them? Any advice if I don't have property to store a totaled car? I wouldn't mind taking the wheels/tires and selling separately. If anyone in the Atlanta area is interested in this wreck let me know.
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  #7  
Old 08-05-2016, 09:06 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
Without knowing the details:

get involved with the adjusters

gather all the pictures you have of the vehicle and send them

begin searching in your area for excellent condition examples - call the seller. you must get some 'dealers' incorporated into this data.

Make a list of all vehicles for sale with phone numbers of the seller

Gather as many as possible. It is a few days of work to get enough. ten at least, and make sure they are willing to talk to the insurance co.

I got 6500 for my w123 w 224k miles in a situation that could have been a lawsuit. This amount will likely depend on the adjuster and the company.

that is the best start. good luck
This was the route I was planning on, but they (State Farm) are saying that's not suitable info for them. They said they only will consider data from an appraiser. Perhaps they're balking?
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2016, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
I received $3,000 for my 85SD that needed paint. The interior looks good. Mechanicals were OK but the AC didn't work. Brakes, suspension & most things were refurbished over the last 30,000 mi. Engine was smooth. 200,000 mi showing on the clock. All I did was say that it had been bought by my son's grandfather new and I was getting it ready for when my son starts driving.

Yours should be worth more if the paint is good and the AC works. Be nice but firm and give reasons why you think it is worth more. The carrier has a range and they can justify going a little higher if given the right information. An extra $1,000 isn't much in the claim paying business.

And buy it back even if you personally don't want the parts. Someone here will take it whole if you don't want to mess with it. I gave $500 for a parts car a while back when scrap was higher.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #9  
Old 08-05-2016, 11:18 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Wow. Hope you are ok.

Definitely get yourself/passengers checked out, those cars did not have the whiplash protection of modern cars.

Assuming it was a rear end collision and you are not in one of those idiotic states where they assign blame proportionally and the simple act of being on the road makes you partially at fault.

In that case I'm not advocating going full lawsuit crazy but definitely make sure you do not have latent damage to your neck/spine that does not show up until later. Definitely retain counsel, but not an ambulance chaser that advertises on the local UHF station or the back of the phone book. I pray it was not a hit/run or undocumented "visitor" with no insurance that hit you.

As for the car, a professional appraiser by a classic car expert, and records go a long way.

I would recommend buying back the wreck and parting it out or getting it fixed. Unless you got sandwiched badly that front end, drive train, and interior can live on another day either for you or someone else. If you can at all help it, don't send it to the yard, it will get hacked up by people removing parts carelessly and then get crushed in 2 weeks.

I went through this on my 98, in my case, the damage was deeper than they first thought, the other party's insurance agreed to fix it due to the pre-accident condition and the fact that it is was 0% my fault (other party cut across a parking lot and literally blindsided me). So by the time they got it all apart and saw it was worse than originally thought they went ahead and paid the full amount to fix it.
I totally agree with all the above. Especially buying the car back. Whenever an insurance company pays a claim for total loss, they essentially Own the car. In order to keep th car, you must pay the salvage value. I have done this several times with cars in the past that have been totaled. The value for your car is probably around $500 in the currant market, and that would be a bargain just for the engine! Do yourself a favor, and at least get a medical checkup. Insurance companies expect this, and even encourage it. This will benefit you and protect you from out of pocket expenses, should you have any issues that arise later.
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  #10  
Old 08-06-2016, 12:45 AM
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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What ever Money you end up taking for the Car you can still keep the Car but they will deduct whatever the care is worth scrap.

You eventually end up with a salvaged title or can get a suspence reciept and part it out and give up the rest for scrap.
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  #11  
Old 08-06-2016, 06:07 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
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There are several members in Atlanta that I'm sure would be interested in the car. W123fanman comes to mind.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #12  
Old 08-06-2016, 07:26 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Former New Jersey resident, transplanted to Atlanta
Posts: 465
THAT LOOKS LIKE I-285 in Atlanta..... Just a word of advice.... I was rear ended, totaled my ML-320, literally ripped the upper seat belt mount out of the pillar bulkhead. Had I not been wearing I seat belt I would have gone through the windshield.... Experienced neck stiffness, red swelling on my back and thought nothing of it, felt better a few days later.... Fast forward: 7 years later, my toes, finger-tips arms get numb, sometimes parts of my face..... Long story short - the injuries were from the accident and simple x-rays reveal disc damage.... GO SEE A DOCTOR!!..... On another note: State farm simply looks at vehicle sold ads and makes their determination.... Never been in accidents until I moved to Atlanta... Had my 2000 ML320 totaled, my 1986 300SDL and my 1997 E320 crushed by a falling tree (Look at my profile pics).,,, People in Atlanta have very poor driving skills and have the audacity to text while doing 65 -75 mph on the major highways.... I even saw a guy eating a bowl of cereal while driving with his knees and a woman with her make-up mirror down rear end a car on I-20..... IT'S THE WATERMELON 500, BRING YOUR OWN NECK BRACE!
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2006 E320 CDI
1999 E300 Turbo Diesl
2002 ML500
1995 E320 Station Wagon


MBs I've owned
1997 E320 Assassinated by Pine Tree
1987 300E Wife Killed Engine
1981 300D Stretch Limo Total Loss
1970 250 Coupe 212,000 mi.
1974 450sel 184,000 mi.
1974 240D 377,000 mi.
1977 300D 204, 000 mi.
1979 280se God Only Knows!
1983 240D 130,000 mi.
1972 220D 280,000 mi.
1983 300SD 244,000 mi.
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  #13  
Old 08-06-2016, 08:07 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,839
Quote:
Originally Posted by stellwagen View Post
I sadly find myself in the middle of my first car insurance claim battle and could use some help on what a reasonable figure to settle on would be.

What was a beautiful '84 300D now looks like this

Determined a total loss by the insurance company. Initially offered me $1900, but I mentioned involving a 3rd party appraiser and they bumped it up to $2900 which is where I'm at now. Should I go through with an appraiser? And how much do you think I should fight for in this situation?

Car had 275,000 miles. Engine runs perfect. Rebuilt auto trans. Tires new. Zero rust. Only two owners prior to me. Every feature in the car worked, sunroof, windows, antenna, etc... Hardly a crack in the dash. Here's some pics:

Body
Front
Interior
Dash

Any opinions you have on this process would be helpful! Just sad to see another one leave the road.
This is not a matter of what you think your car is worth. It's a matter of exactly how much it will take to replace your loss. I insist that I am not advising you or anyone else to do what I have done and will do in such cases.

I never sign a medical release until the insurance company agrees to give me enough to replace my property loss. I never take more than is fair but I never settle for less than it takes to fully replace my property.

Find a true equal to your car and do the math, my friend.
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2016, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
This is not a matter of what you think your car is worth. It's a matter of exactly how much it will take to replace your loss. I insist that I am not advising you or anyone else to do what I have done and will do in such cases.

I never sign a medical release until the insurance company agrees to give me enough to replace my property loss. I never take more than is fair but I never settle for less than it takes to fully replace my property.

Find a true equal to your car and do the math, my friend.
I have posted this before. You are entitled to a replacement car as good or better than what you had. Leave the medical release either till last as suggested or keep it open.

The insurance company may think that treating you right on the car might expedite that portion of the claim. As mentioned go to a doctor as well. They have to pay for that.

The medical portion is the only real lever you have. Unless you find a fair company and that is a toss up at best. Remember that in reality the car is peanuts to them.

I would never cheat anyone but you have to fight fire with fire on occasion. Or be prepared to take a bath. Too many have including myself over the years.
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2016, 10:26 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
Medical exam and not agreeing to medical waiver are good suggestions. Go to your own doctor. Medical is where the big bucks are if needed. You are only talking a few extra dollars for the car - not something to walk away from but health is much more important.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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