You should also use new heat shields, but if you can't get those in time it will be OK until you get home, but definitely use new heat shields every time you install an injector.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

A .05mm shim increases the pressure required to pop an injector by about 43 psi (3 bar). Are you sure you added 2mm?

2.0mm/.05mm=40. 40x43 psi=1750 psi. You increased the pop pressure by 1750 psi?

If there is an advanced auto near you can order an elring or victor heat shield. Perhaps if you call around you can find a replacement for the injector.

__________________
84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Clemson what I found and also going by what another member said is 1mm raises the psi. 100. 5 of them were popping at 1650 when I added 2mm they popped at about 1950. I have to admit the motor sounded worse after putting the shims in. When putting them back together I did break 1 needle and seat I realized it and grabbed another I had on hand. I will pull the infector and see if see any thing wrong with it. Sure hope I can get this car 700 miles back home on Mon. Even if I have to limp back at 60mph. Thanks for info. On heat shields.I don't understand why they need to be replaced every time you pull an injector? They will either leak or not no other damage would occur would it?

The heat shields having to be replaced is because they deform when you install them. Somewhere on here is a post with pictures comparing a new and used one, and a way to un-deform them if you need to in a pinch. I believe it involves a ball bearing of a certain size and a few hammer taps.

-Rog

I don't know what is am looking at but when I pulled the injector something looks broke on the prechamber. Don't think I will pull injector apart.

Are you able to take and post pics? Looking straight down into the prechamber, you should see the glow plug tip coming in from the side, and prechamber ball in the middle. Nothing should be laying on the bottom. When taking pic, turn on the glow plugs to light up the scene, zoom in to get a better shot.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

It does not look like I can repair this where I am at with tools available to me it looks like something broke in the prechamber area. I wonder what a dealer would charge to repair? Can I try to run home 700 miles in this condition? This morning when I tried to pull up a small incline with injector unhooked it did not have the power to make it had to tighten up injector to give me more power but then i had the noise.

Here are some pics of the aftermath of an apparently untreated prechamber failure (go back a few pages to see the bad prechambers):

Prechamber Ball

So I wouldn't drive it if you have a similar issue (or one brewing). It'll be the difference between easily fixing the engine and likely having to junk it.

-Rog

Well I did find a mechanic in the area that knows a bit about these diesels today what we did was take the 2mm shim out of the noisy cylinder took the injector apart every thing looked ok inside it put it back in with same heat shield as I had no others. When I started it up it was quieter but not like it should be and I have a lack of power on a hill. He said I should not be afraid to drive it home 700 miles. I might try to pick up some heat shields from advance like Clemson recommended if they carry them because we did see some bubbles in the return lines after that injector which could from the heat shield but the injector is not leaking fuel. When I look back at this I wish I would have left the injectors pop at 1650 and not raising them to 1950 because like the mechanic said you are putting more strain on your pump next that's gonna go bad and need to be rebuilt. The mechanic also said I should change my fuel filter as it seems the engine is not getting enough fuel as my boost pressure send to be down also. Just hope it makes it back home.

The trip home 700 miles was bad but I did make it had to tow the 300sd last 2 miles it stopped and I could not restart it. To correct what I said earlier I put a .2 mm shim in not 2mm like I said it did pop at about 1950 psi. Well this morning I got it started pretty quickly but it is making a very loud rapping sound and I hardly had enough power to pull up my driveway which is on a slight incline. I took the 4th injector out which I thought was the culprit tested it seems a little messed up popping at about 1650 now so I put another used one in I had laying around and the noise did not subside at all leading me to believe it is not the injector. The engine idles very erratically and will stop after awhile. If I can attach a vidio of it running I will. I am still trying to establish exactly where the noise is coming from. Appreciate all ideas as I do'nt think I can even drive this car to a shop I would have to trailer it thats how bad it is running and sounds. Was trying to post vidio but told me I do not have enough memory then told me I do'nt have a security code so I guess I ca'nt post it. When I was trying to run it and vidio it the noise stopped but still ran uneven then engine abruptly stopped and I cannot restart. Where do I go from hear? I am so disgusted with this car I'm ready to put it up for sale I must have stuck $10,000 in this car and it currently do'nt run. I'm on my second engine, rebuilt trans. and just about every part on this car has been replaced

From what I've read you had all 5 set to 1950 psi then only took apart #4 and took it's shims out? Water under the bridge now but a odd thing to do, would've been better off swapping an injector over. Don't worry about pop pressure being too high, the engine will run weird before you'll ever break the pump (believe OM616 and 617s are the lowest pressure engines they were ever fitted to).
Just make sure all the injectors are working evenly.
I would pull all the injectors out and confirm nothing funky going on with the prechambers, if that's ok then you're probably looking at compression test or fit another IP perhaps.

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

Ok NZ the reason I did'nt just switch an injector was I was 700 miles from home and I did'nt have new heat shields to go in and I was worried I'd have 2 injectors messed up instead of 1 for the ride home. I guess I should be glad it got me back 2 miles from home before it quit. I now know there is something wrong in the 4 cyl. prechamber the ball if thats what you call it is totally gone probably bouncing around on the top of that piston making that racket. I took 2 pictures one of the bad prechamber ball and the second one of a normal prechamber that I have on a blown engine setting on my garage floor. I do not know the purpose of these prechambers and I do not have the special puller to pull it out. Tomorrow I will pull all the injectors and take a look what the rest of the prechambers look like. Can this engine be repaired w/o pulling the head off if I could pull the prechamber and replace with one from my parts engine? I do have another good engine that I could I could swap in if need be I want to get this vehicle going again asap.Take a look at the 2 prechambers looking from top down.

Attached Thumbnails

   

If your prechamber is damaged there is a high probability that you've damaged the engine....take a look at the damage to my engine in the link a few posts back. (This engine actually started and ran well before I bought it)

You might as well pull the head and the prechambers and do a thorough inspection.

The prechamber ring removal tool and prechamber removal tool aren't too bad to build...at least if you've got a welder.

Good luck!

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Woops - meant swap them around, but yes, lucky your car did make it that long.

Not the best to see that prechamber like that. As mach says, best have a thorough look. You may find it's more trouble than it's worth if you find damaged piston (s)...

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

You might get away with looking at your pistons with a borescope, but to do so you'll need to get the prechambers out.

Here's what can happen when the balls let loose -

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica