That is what I hear when I turn the key to start.
Is there a relay between the key and the starter selniod ?
I can start by turning on the key to the run position, do the glow, then use my jumper switch at the starter terminal on the pas.fender.
So the starter is ok.
Ramed the trani selector back and forth to see if the lock out was the problem, no help there. Is there an easy way to short across the lock out switch without getting under the car. At 81 that is no longer fun.

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1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

Classic battery problem. If new(er) check cables at battery end first.

When you jumped the terminals on the fender, you bypassed the starter lockout .

It sounds like either the starter lockout switch or shifter linkage bushings. Hopefully it will be the bushings as they are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

If it is the shifter bushings, there will be no click. Nothing will happen; it will just be dead. Then you can wiggle the gear shift sometimes and it will start like new.

Maybe starter solenoid?

You're correct. Using my phone, I missed that in the title.

Please explain how a battery make clicking sounds. I've never heard of that before.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

One of the intermittent starting problems I had was a loose chassis to engine ground strap. Sometimes it would click several times and then after trying several things to troubleshoot the problem, it would fire right up. It appeared to be a starter solenoid problem. Changed two starters out before finding the problem, with help from this forum.

Yeah but the part that was emitting the click click sound was not the ground strap, but rather the starter solenoid not getting sufficient current due to the bad ground strap?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Thanks for the info guys. The ground strap is OK because it will start fine
from the jumper on the fender junction. The click sound comes from a higher area. It sounds like a relay engaging. Thanks for ruling out the trani
lockout.

__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

No relay in the starter circuit. Key switch go right to starter solenoid.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I have a wiring diagram of the starter system. Easy to follow.
The problem is no power FROM the lock out sw.
There is power getting TO the lock out as the backup lights come on when
in reverse with the key on.
If the lock out switch is removed is it serviceable?
Are they easy to remove?
I have my jumper coming up under the hood and into the driver side window.
Works great. turn on the key, glo and press the button.
Hope it doesn't rain.

__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

LOGIC: If the backup lights go on with the key on, selector in reverse, It is not logical that the park and reverse contacts won't function. I can see one not working but not both.
Is there a relay to do with an old anti theft setup that is in the circuit?
Very strange that one day it is OK and the next it won't start without the car being touched.

__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

might want to check for an alarm system installed on the car.

the sound may have been disabled, but the sensors are still active.

you might find it easily by pulling the driver's lower panel under the steering wheel. If you you find a box with harness going into it that you are unsure of, that might be it. Run the part number. Just yank the harness out if you find an alarm control box down there.

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I have the same problem with my 84 300TD. Some times it will start from the key, and some times I have to jump it on the box on the right fender. I also get a loud click when I turn the key and it does not start. I have noticed that it will start more reliably when cold then when hot.

In my case it is not the selector bushings, and I don't think it is the neutral safety switch. The fact that the car starts when jumped suggests it is not the starter either.

W.

X2

Check your battery - it sounds like it is struggling / not providing enough power.

The classic clicking of the starter solenoid (but no spinning of the starter motor) as mentioned above points to this.

The reason why not enough "juice" is getting to the starter could also be due to dirty contacts.

Taking it one step further: Over on BW there was a fairly recent fad of "change your battery cables as they tend to corrode inside"...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!