How does the intake crossover tube come off?
 

As you're looking at the engine with the hood up, I got the crossover tube (also called elbow) off at the right side. It's the side that's hooked up towards the turbo that I can't get off at the area circled in red.

I read a few things online that say you undo the allen wrench bolts holding it down, then just twist it towards the windshield and up, but it's not coming off willingly. I can move it, but it's not coming off. Is that a rubber grommet holding it on between those 2 points?

Thanks,

jeff 1991 300d

there is an intermediate male/male coupling between the two sides.

a large oring on each end of the coupling makes the friction and creates a seal.

takes a bit of force t free either side when there is no oil on it.

So which motion do I use? Twist, pull, upward, or left/right?
 

Which way do I pull or twist? Is the coupling made of metal? I'm able to swivel that point but I don't want to break anything. It almost seems like a rubber seal of some kind.

Give a squirt of soapy water to the joint to aid in releasing it.

soapy water is great. as is wd40 - very helpful to have a straw to get up in there.


then use a wide flatblade, or something similar, and twist it between the two sides you want to remove.


It helps to move the crossover pipe so that you clan close the gap where you are prying.


ps - even when its oiled it doesnt come out very easily without prying

And there is another bolt/nut that holds it on located on the turbo side. Kinda underneath the tube.

That bolt is already off
 

I got that one off previously.

If you have all three bolts off, the only thing holding it in is an O-ring. Just lift and pull.

I finally got it off, and now I can tell others how
 

Once you take the 3 bolts off, you have to lift and twist any way you can, but lifting upward to the sky hard won't hurt it and turning it toward the windshield will also help. It finally let go.

When reinstalling, the ONLY way it will go back in is to go in at an angle from the windshield and twist it back downward because of the bracket on it.

I clean up that connection with a clean rag as much as I can, and then lube with ATF during re-assembly, and that works pretty well for me. This is on my OM603 and OM606, both of which have a very similar joint Big thick green donut-like o-rings live inside, I'm sure MB has some special lubricant designed just for them, use something that won't bake on with heat and make the next removal impossible.