My indy loaned me his MB tool like this one, as you turn the nut, the PC comes right out
w/o much effort.

Tool is a bit pricy.

Here is a Wiki from the DIY section and some home made tools

PeachPartsWiki: DIY 617.9XX prechamber tools

DIY 617.9XX prechamber tools

$15 Redneck Slide hammer and Prechamber adapter (Pics)

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

One of our members used to have one.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have only see either of the the pullers that use screw action to pull the prechamber on ebay.

Assuming you bought a genuine pre-chmber puller if it was made in Europe it is going to have 12mm threads (I don't have in my notes the thread pitch). If it was made in the USA it will be 5/8x18 threads.

If you get the correct threads you then would need some all threaded rod a washer and a nut. A section of tube that you cut a slot (about 3/4 one and wider then the tab) on ones side to allow that locatig tab on the prechamber to come up in.
The Tube needs to be slightly larger of an ID then the prechamber lip.

The mentioned washer needs to be wide enough to cover the tube and at that same time fit over the threaded rod.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If this info is correct for the slide hammer that fits the european made prechamber puller tool "Impact hammer for use with Pre-chamber extractor. 2.8KG ( 6 pounds) and M12x1.75 threads".
M12x1.75mm is what the inside threads of the prechamber puller/extractor are.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Does the Prechamber Puller have the makers name or initials on it or the country it was made in?
Another way to find out would be to take the Prechamber tool down to Autozone and see if it screws easily onto their largest free rental slide hammer. I just had one a week ago and they are threaded 5/8x18 and like the one in the picture I posted of the slide hammer.

If it does not fit the Autozone Slide Hammer then it is M12x1.75mm threads.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That is not a good angle for the pic of the tool. Not shown is a nut on the bolt that you turn to pull the pre chamber out. A breaker bar will not help since you're not turning the bolt.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

"First- do no harm" the oath of Doctors and Mechanics. Mechanics have to do harm sometimes in the battle which means you trade one problem for another until you have a problem you can easily solve by itself. What problem is going to occur if you have a bit of acetone/atf atop the piston? None IMHO- so this step can only help not harm.

Well made a studier prechamber puller with the bottom half of the tool being a factory made in germany tool part#KL-0369-4 that part was supposed to be used with a slide hammer which I did try the slide hammer had this threads 3/8 × 24 which I know was kind of skimpy but it worked fine for a spare parts engine I had laying around but not on the engine Im trying to repair. I made what I thought was a pretty sturdy puller that I could screw the chamber out rather then wack it out with slide hammer tried to copy a factory made one what happened I just bent the 1" pipe and did not budge the chamber. I really do'nt know what to try next except plug the chamber hole and try to put about 1/2" of trans and acetone on top and hope it works its way under the lip of the prechamber and loosens it up. Will try to attach picture of what happened to my half bought half made puller. A good factory made one costs $160 I already have $140 in bought tools and still do'nt have the chamber out. It must be fused or caught on somethimg.

Attached Thumbnails

 

You could try exploiting the thermal difference between chamber and head, this what I used on heavily carboned piston rings stuck firm.

Tried everything over several days eventually calling the engine parts supplier "drop them in a bucket of hot water" - unbelievable, rings almost came off by themselves.

Chambers in my 606 are hardened steel v alloy head so perfect contrast, not sure others though.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

Have you inspected down in to the prechamber tip for damage? Damage to the tip could prevent its removal and require removal of the head instead.

Even the tightest ones I have removed start budging a little after a series of whacks from the slide hammer

If the mixing ball is still in place, it is unlikely there is any reason to remove the PC.

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Yuke,

You also have not confirmed that you removed the retaining collar that holds the PC in the head. It is threaded and has 2 slots in it for installation.

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Maybe you can shrink the prechamber away from whatever may be stuck to it.


snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....

Yes I am beginning to think that the damage to the prechamber is whats preventing its removal. The locking ring on top is off that almost seemed like it was only finger tight came off very easily. The little bridge I imagine that has the ball inside it is completely gone I'm almost thinking the whole bottom of the prechamber is gone and yes maybe the best factory tool made might not pull this one out and the only way to get it out might be the removal of the head which looks like you need a special allen star bit on half inch drive. I will try to give this one more shot tomorrow presently I have the chamber filled with trans fluid and laquer thinner cause I did'nt have any acetone at the time I have since gotten some acetone so I might just pull that shot glass full I have in there and swap it with ace+trans. Gonna try tomorrow if it does'nt budge might just start preparing for an engine swap seems that might be easier then trying to get this prechamber out.

I agree. it should not be that stubborn. Regarding what you've stated, its too damaged and forcing it out as it is could damage the head further.

The only other thing I would try if I wasn't interested in pulling the head, would be to drill out what I could of the tip of the PC right down the center. Just trying to remove some of the material so it 'gives' better and will slide out.

Con: metal shavings in the bore and hard to get out completely

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