Recently aquired a 300D with a slight starting problem and looking for a good Mercedes diesel mechanic in the Billings, Montana area. Last one I knew of went out of business. Another told me he would work on it, but wasn't sure of what he was doing. Didn't leave a great deal of confidence.

Question is, has anyone either resident or traveler come through the Billings area and run across someone who is good at testing Mercedes engines. Once started, the car runs great and after the initial cold start will start fine. New battery, new injectors, new glow plugs. I'm not that sharp of a mechanic, need a pro.

Thank all in advance.

Jim 300D

1976 300D Immaculate.

How's the compression? Has it been tested? Does your block heater help?

Good luck,

Thanks Larry,

Compression is one of the things I want checked. And yes, block heater does help. So does using the hand pump for pumping up fuel if the car has sat unused for a few days. (though have only resorted to that once). Those are things I would like for a pro to check out and determine the base problem.

I'm wondering if this isn't a cumulation of several small problems. History of the car. Has 155,000 miles. Not used at all for the past 7 months. And only about once a year for the two or three years preceeding for a 2000 mile trip. Oil etc, changed very regularly. Garaged, well maintained. However feel some things have deteriorated due to lack of use. Real problem is I am not enough of a mechanic to know just what to look for.

Thanks for suggestion. Query block heater. Glow plugs? They're relatively new by mileage.

Jim 300D

1976 300D Immaculate.

Should be a ThermoKing or Carrier dealer in Billings. They work on the glow plug engines all the time.

In the meantime, feel all the fuel lines for leaks, especially the one from the bottom of the main fuel filter to the injection pump, and the return lines from injectors to the top of main fuel filter. Sounds like you're losing prime. Or the glow plug circuit. The reefer mechanics can troubleshoot very quickly and being it's a Benz they may do it for a 12-pack.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

Thank you dabenz,

Hadn't even thought about Thermoking and Carrier, have both I do believe. Good info. Checked the fuel lines once, but will go back and check again. Never know, I could have missed one. Be pretty hair line if there is one, but not going to say there couldn't be. My first inspection did find a loose connection in the return line, but tightening it didn't correct the problem.

Thanks for your help.

Jim 300D

Have another question for LarryBible, or anyone, what should the compression be on a 300D? And the range?

Advancing a thank you,

Jim 300D

1976 300D Immaculate

Compression on a 300D will be about 320 PSI on a fresh engine. It can run decent, however, with compression on ALL cylinders in the 200 range, maybe even a little below if all cylinders are within 10% of each other.

Good luck,

Thanks Larry,

Appreciate the help. I've a friend several miles from here who runs construction equipment. He may have a compression tester. I'll run out and see. He has a great shop for working on things at any rate if he isn't busy on other projects.

I'd like to know how this car checks out. Get the glow plugs tested, the compression tested and that pretty much leaves the fuel lines. for the obvious. Then just keep picking at it I guess.

Appreciate your taking the time to answer however.

Jim 300D

1976 300D Immaculate

The people on this web site are incredible (once I learned to use the search). Also, the CD offered here is kind of useful - you'll see that the "newer" series glow plug systems are too complicated: timers and temperature sensors, etc.

I will order the parts for my retrofit this week and post after I've proven to myself that it works - a combination of my existing simple system and an old ThermoKing system - and no gorilla pull to start. By that time you'll have your CD.

Also, did you drain sludge plug on main filter (big nut on bottom side - crack the top vent (screw or nut on larger nut))? It's that time of year in Yankee land for the algae/fungus to start growing in the bottom inlet side of the housing.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

Thanks dabenz,

Will do that drain plug when I get out to friends shop. Now also thinking about a new filter if I can get one in this backward town. No dealer. Parts scarce and hard to come by. Can order on the Internet of course, but won't use a credit card on the Internet at all anymore since Pay Pal was invaded.

Anyway, do have a few things to check. Perhaps I can find the key one. Hopeing so.

Appreciate the info and will be looking for your post after the retrofit. If you think of it e-mail me direct and let me know when you post.

Jim 300D

1976 300D Immaculate

My main fuel filter element: Baldwin PF834 (NAPA 3167 in a pinch). Change the Baldwin in the fall or the NAPA in spring and fall. Drain sludge plug, pop the top, pull old filter, suck out half the inner fuel bay with glass turkey baster, put in new filter, top off with ATF (gives nozzles a good cleaning), wait 15 min for the filter to soak up, then replace the top and slowly hand pump until fuel washes out the vent. Document in your log and keep the ATF jug in the trunk in case Patrolman Murphy decides to inspect your fuel the same day (red fuel is high sulfur farm fuel - illegal for road use).

Backflush fuel pre-filter with fuel oil (diesel).

I run plain fuel (#2 in summer, 50/50 #1/#2 10-32F, and #1 below 10F) and use PowerService Diesel Kleen additive year round. You may want to drain tank and biocide (any brand) to get a fresh start. Your buddy will use the fuel in return for shop time.

My oil cartridge filter: Baldwin P-40. Do NOT use a NAPA oil filter. I fit a hard rubber square gasket where the cartridge housing fits in bracket so I don't have to keep changing the 0-ring. Just remember to oil it like a spin on filter. Also brazed a pipe plug fitting on housing bottom to drain before loosening center bolt.

Plug inner holes of nylon oil filter with a bolt, big washers, and nut. Slosh around in gasoline to clean, then let dry by itself. Do NOt scrape. I keep a spare and rotate to save time. My next project (next year) is to build an adapter plate so I can use a Baldwin spin-on filter.

Check the catalogs at NAPA or a fleet/farm supply outfit for the Baldwin filter numbers for your engine. Baldwin is good, as are the filters on this site. Also check Cummins/Catepillar/Detroit truck engine dealer for Baldwin catalog or the salesman's number. Flying-J as a last resort (I hated that store but they have a big parking lot).

Also: E-mail Phil (the parts guy on this site). He let me mail a check for the CD and he says he'll let me mail a check for parts, but I have to check with him first to figure out the shipping cost.

You'll eventually get to the point where you tinker only if the engine doesn't fire on the second cylinder.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

Thanks dabenz

Good info on those filter numbers. Plus that of no N.A.P.A on oil. Probably who I would have gone to in a pinch. I would think the Baldwin filters wouldn't be too hard to come by. I've seen them on shelves in parts stores around town. If they don't stock the right numbers, I can get them to order for me I'm sure.

Not too wild about the straight #1 though at any temperature. Burns too hot. With Cons't equipment and etc I've usually used #2 down to about 20 degrees. then a 70/30 mix down to about 10 below, then a 50/50 with Power Service additive below that. Never been caught short on that yet, of course I've always had a fuel heater on equipment. Though the fuel still had to get up the line on its own as far as the heater.

I'll be in contact with Phil I'm sure. Several things I want to see about.

Thanks for filter numbers. Good Info.

Jim 300D

1976 300D Immaculate

Understand the burning hot #1, but we don't have much of a choice here when it gets cold and stays cold. Shops here make good money thawing southern trucks in early winter. Fuel heaters are nice (until they malfunction) but not too common on the smaller auto and pickup engines. I like the Webasto units - catalytic heater and water pump and they now make a unit for small engines - but still the gelling issue in the fuel lines. Bottom line is to do what you know works for you where you live.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

Montana is heavy equipment country, so you may be able to find someone used to truck and tractor diesels who knows the drill...I'd also make sure I had a copy of the Haynes 123 shop manual to assist.

Good luck...actually, the best guy in the country to work on Packards lives near Gallatin Gateway.

Thanks for the response Jim B+

Yes, there are lots of diesel mechanics in the Billings area, I was just hoping to find one especially familiar with the Mercedes. Similar to the one near Gallatin Gateway who you mention being a specialist on Packards. To find that feller that tinkers in his garage who is a wizard with Mercedes diesels.

A question though. Do you think the Haynes manuel 123 better than the original equipment manuel? Or in conjunction with? I've been thinking about ordering the original equipment manuel from this web site or Adsit. I want to get a dust cover for the car also and they don't have one here so may go to Adsit.

dabenz, wasn't much to respond to in your last. I agree that you are somewhat restricted as to fuel choices in your area. I've been there in the winter, fortunately in a gas driven pickup with a humongous heater. I well remember the weather.