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  #1  
Old 09-09-2016, 10:56 AM
tompaah7503's Avatar
Parts may fall off
 
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Location: Sweden
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Losing power, developing a knock (om617)

My 83 300TD non-turbo 617 has lost a bit of power and has developed a knock since about 2 months or 8000 kms.

The engine has about 373.000 km on it and appears normally maintaned, I have owned it for the last 16.000 kms. I have changed all fluids and filters about 1 month ago but the symptoms began earlier than that.

Symptoms:
  • Rough idle
  • Smokes more than usual (not water vapor or oil, it's badly combusted fuel)
  • Has a knock while idling, not all cylinders, maybe just on one
  • Need to floor the pedal to get car somwehere
  • Struggling to maintain speed at fifth gear on flat terrain
  • It starts strong and easy, glows fine

I don't know when it last had it's valves adjusted, I have not done it during the 16000 km's I owned the car.

Could a bad valve adjustment have these symptoms?
Or is this a case of a bad injector nozzle?

What would be a recommended first action?

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Tomas, Sweden
1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
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  #2  
Old 09-09-2016, 11:00 AM
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No good news here..
SET the valves carefully and keep your fingers crossed...
check back with the results...
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  #3  
Old 09-09-2016, 11:06 AM
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Oh, forgot to add.
It doesn't seem to consume any oil, and maintains both normal temperature and oil pressure during drive, even when flooring it for miles and miles.
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Tomas, Sweden
1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2016, 11:40 AM
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no gasoline in fuel?
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  #6  
Old 09-09-2016, 11:46 AM
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Not that I know, have fueled multiple times since the problems began.

I'll try the valve adjustment for starters, just need to get my hands on the bent wrenches.
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Tomas, Sweden
1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
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  #7  
Old 09-09-2016, 12:11 PM
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Once your valves are set... then you can use the IP system to see if the ' knock' can be pinpointed to one cylinder...
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  #8  
Old 09-09-2016, 03:22 PM
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Location: Texafornia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompaah7503 View Post
My 83 300TD non-turbo 617 has lost a bit of power and has developed a knock since about 2 months or 8000 kms.

The engine has about 373.000 km on it and appears normally maintaned, I have owned it for the last 16.000 kms. I have changed all fluids and filters about 1 month ago but the symptoms began earlier than that.

Symptoms:
  • Rough idle
  • Smokes more than usual (not water vapor or oil, it's badly combusted fuel)
  • Has a knock while idling, not all cylinders, maybe just on one
  • Need to floor the pedal to get car somwehere
  • Struggling to maintain speed at fifth gear on flat terrain
  • It starts strong and easy, glows fine

I don't know when it last had it's valves adjusted, I have not done it during the 16000 km's I owned the car.

Could a bad valve adjustment have these symptoms?
Or is this a case of a bad injector nozzle?

What would be a recommended first action?
I have one here in Texas ill sell you, its got the m pump on it.
or I got a turbo one ill sell you, and also got a matching tranz


im serious, shipping is easier for me than if you were here in America.
Mangus ships American iron to Sweden from my home town 4 times a yr.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/280370-large-300d-300cd-parts-post-12.html
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2016, 04:04 PM
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Location: Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
I have one here in Texas ill sell you, its got the m pump on it.
or I got a turbo one ill sell you, and also got a matching tranz


im serious, shipping is easier for me than if you were here in America.
Mangus ships American iron to Sweden from my home town 4 times a yr.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/280370-large-300d-300cd-parts-post-12.html
Interesting proposal, though I'd need a turbo engine with the wagon/sls head. Yours are CD and SD engines right, no SLS pump on them?
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Tomas, Sweden
1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2016, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompaah7503 View Post
Interesting proposal, though I'd need a turbo engine with the wagon/sls head. Yours are CD and SD engines right, no SLS pump on them?
nope plain, you could or would have to deliete -or get some custom pump for the sls
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  #11  
Old 09-11-2016, 05:17 PM
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Location: Greater Metropolitan Beaverdam VA
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Apparently, maintenance on this engine has been neglected

Before going to extremes, I would check the injectors. A badly set up injector or two ( pissing instead of spraying) will definitely cause a knock that can sound much more expensive.

Easy and Cheap first before jumping.
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2016, 09:51 PM
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X2 for checking injectors
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1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
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  #13  
Old 09-13-2016, 08:11 AM
Shadetree
 
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Location: Back in SC upstate
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It is my understanding that valves out of adjustment makes the 617 hard to start. No matter, those valves probably should to be adjusted.

I'd loosen the injectors one at a time to see if the knock was caused by an injector. If the injectors are bad and you pull them for replacement or repair it will make adjusting the valves a bit easier. The engine will turn without a fight.

I'm never in a hurry about anything. Everytime I walk toward my car with a wrench it rolls over on its back and begs for mercy.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2016, 06:58 AM
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Try to determine if the knock or noise if coming from the top or bottom of the engine. I recently had what I would call was a nailing noise which I determined by loosening 1 injector at a time was coming from my 4th cyl. back when I pulled that injector and learned what a good prechamber should look like I realized my prechamber blew the bottom out down into the cyl. had a big loss of power and engine consumed more oil in the last 1,000 miles I ran it. I could not pull the prechamber out I think only way is if I remove the head which I put on hold as I have a good 617 motor that I am currently putting in. Sounds like your noise is a pretty serious problem good luck.

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