'91 W126 ball joint question
 

I've got a bad lower ball joint on the front of my '91 350SDL. Used the search feature and did not find a clear answer so here goes.

Can I drop the lower control arm without a coil spring compressor? Some posts I find seem to suggest it's doable.

Any info would be appreciated.

Actually you need to pull the spindle. It can be done with the LCA attached to the car via the shock holding it all in there.

Please evaluate the entire front end before doing this scope of work. You have a 25 year old car, chances are it needs and entire front end.

I know the spindle needs to be pulled. It just seems like the ball joint would be easier to get out of the LCA if it was in hand and on the press.

Is it that hard to get the BJ out of the LCR and the new one in place?

I'm thinking of buying one of the front end kits and rebuilding the entire front end. I just need to make stop gap repairs on this one while I rebuild the front end of my 300 SE.

If you're doing the front end, you'll want to replace the guide rod bushings under the lower spring perch. Borrow or rent a proper spring compressor to do the job safely.

Sixto
83 300SD

That's what I needed to know. I have two S series cars that I need to rebuild. I don't mind spending money for tools if I have too. However, if it can be done without I'd rather not spend money I don't have too.

Thanks for the replys.

I would stay away from these kits that have all the front end parts.
Sure the price is low, but usually the quality is low also. Short lived.
I would go with Lemforder parts or other quality German parts or dealer as last resort.

Once the vehicle is safely on Jack Stands. I would use a Floor jack under the lower Control arm to hold it instead of relying on the Shock to hold it.
Sure the Shock will hold it, but I would not have a comfortable feel good about it holding.

Remove the LCA from the Steering Knuckle, Tie Rod and upper Control Arm,
then the Knuckle can be removed.
You will have to beat the BJ out.

Funola`s REDNECK BJ removal thread is a good one.

The ball joint is pressed into the spindle, not the LCA.



Do not buy a kit, most are garbage. Spend the money for OEM or Lemforder only. With 283k, your car should have had one full front end by now. If not, just do it all at once as everything seems to overlap up front. LCA bushings die around 250-275k in my experience. I can tear a full front end down in sub four hours, including putting it safely on jack stands. Takes another 12-18 hours to fully rebuild it and torque to spec.

Do not forget the idler arm bushing! :)

Well that went better then I thought. That ball joint taper did not want to let go! Thanks to you all for the info shared.

I've got the ball joint out of the knuckle. Now to get the new one in. Anyone use the Harbor Freight "C" clamp press?

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

I used basically that kit, it was just the "rental" version from O'reily. They look pretty much identical, so I see it working pretty well.

Tip, I put my BJ's in the freezer for a couple of hours before installation to help shrink them a lil', don't know if it actually helped but you need all the help you can get unless you have a hydraulic press. With the C-clamp kit I had to turn, then beat, turn, beat, turn, beat, over and over until they were in. The clamp itself did not have quite enough force...

I have replaced all of the bushings on the front end of my 84 & 85 SDs. They drive wonderfully. Use a threaded rod and large washers to install the LCA bushings. Fine thread works better than coarse thread. Simply get a sawzall, mount the LCA in a vise and cut the metal bushing cap then hammer out.

Do the bushings in the carrier for the guide rod mount. Do the guide rod mount also. The carrier bushings will come out in chunks if they haven't been replaced.

Ball joints are the biggest pita. I'm lazy and farmed that out to the indy who has the MBZ fancy schmancy tool. He even painted the ball joint on the bottom.

Buy the spring compressor. You could sell it when finished. Ge sure to grease the screw before each use. It makes a difference. Put paint markings on the part that inserts into the bottom plate. You will want a reference to make sure that the plat is locked in place. You would not like the plate to come off under pressure. It may ruin your day or face or something else or all of that.

Note the length of the compressed spring after it's removed from the car. It will need at least as much compression to reinstall. Note (mark) the position of the plate on the spring. before you remove the plate to get the oter side of the car. The marks will help align the plates for reinstalling the spring.

Consider any related brake or hub work. Now is a perfect time because all will be removed for the suspension work. Finally, use the best parts that you can emotionally pay for. Lemforder has the best reputation and is an OE supplier. I'm too cheap for the MBZ price so took my chances where Lemforder was unavailable. I don't have enough miles to kow whether that was a mistake.

Here's the tool you need to get this task done.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/381055-ball-joint-press-115-116-123-126-a.html

I just looked at the one O'Reily has but it looked too large to work. Did not have the ball joint so could not tell for sure.

I think I'll just run it into town and get a shop I found that says they are setup to do the job.

Thank you again too everyone for the help.

WVOPWRD!

Is this the too you rented from O'Reily's?

Performance Tool 4-In-1 Ball Joint Adapter Set, Model# W89304 | Ball Joint, Bearing Gear Repair| Northern Tool + Equipment

If so, you said that it worked without a problem?

EDIT: The tool inked to above works. I had to take the dust boot off of the ball joint and no adapter was required on the tapered stud end. The hole thru the camp is sized so that it slipped over the stud and presses on the body of the cup. A 1/2" drive impact driver had the new ball joint in place in about a minute.

Again, thanks for the info.