So I will preface this with I'm putting this engine in a Range Rover Classic

I have it all plumbed and installed.

I just put new glowplugs in last night.

It's putting out grey smoke from the turbo.

I have fuel going in. I clean d the injectors as well.

I'm using the stock new Bosch starter on it. It doesn't seem like it's turning over fast enough.

Occasionally it sounds like it's going to start. But it hasn't started yet in the last month of trying.




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I'll upload a video shortly


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Did you bleed the injection system?

Sixto
83 300SD

Yeah, crack the fuel lines at the injectors when you are cranking...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I'll try that. Maybe there is still a lot of air in the system


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https://youtu.be/1w0xN2MMRZw


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How about some basics out of the way, like did it run before? Was the injection pump off at any time? If so, is the timing correct? Are the glow plugs confirmed to be working?

Since it's a swap, how is your shutoff plumbed? Did you make sure it's not stuck in the off position?

Et cetera...

-Rog

This is the pump.

There isn't any vacuum hooked to it. As I understand it vacuum turns off the pump.

Or you can hook a cable to the lever on the side to turn it off.

So no vacuum is applied and the shutoff lever isn't hooked to anything yet.

The glowplugs are brand new as of yesterday. They are Bosch plugs. I just hook them to the battery before starting.




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This is while trying to start it.




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It ran before it was pulled and cleaned up. I haven't done anything to it other then replace some gaskets and seals.

I can feel the glowplugs getting hot.


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Going to assume it's nothing drastically wrong if you had it going before...it's very close to biting...what happens when you floor it/push all the way down on the IP "throttle" lever if it isn't already?

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

It was painful to hear you crank the engine so long. Loosen the injector lines one at a time and crank the engine until you see fuel. Do this one line at a time until you see fuel at all 5 injectors. You should never crank the engine longer than 20 seconds without risk of burning up your starter. Once the engine starts how do you plan to shut it off?

It's an M pump, there's a lever on the side to shutoff.

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

I see air in both clear hard lines.

Old style primer pumps are prone to leaks, does fuel come out of the handle when you are priming the lift pump?
It may be time for a new design primer pump.

Also the rubber fuel inlet hose may have an air leak, especially if you can twist the line by hand when the hose clamp is at its tightest.

Fix those potential air leaks first, re-prime your IP (about 50-100 strokes), and then
crack open all five injector hard line nuts at the injectors.

Crank the engine (with the glow plug relay unplugged to save your battery), and re-tighten each hard line as they begin to dribble fuel.
They fill sequentially from rear to front (ie: 5, 4, 3, 2 and then 1).

Then plug in the glow plug relay and it should start up right away.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

I thought the starters were extra beefy. Thought someone on the forum quoted the FSM that you could run it straight for something like two minutes without hurting it. Then you needed to wait a few for it to cool down before trying again.

In my 1981 300SD I ran out of fuel about three times before I stopped trusting the low level light. Each time I just put in about a gallon or so and ran the starter for something like two minutes. It pumped in the diesel fuel and started all three times. I did pump it up with the hand pump before hitting the starter but I never had to bleed anything. Was probably fifteen years ago.