1999 E300D, windows won't go up
 

They go down but one go up, only tested driver's front and passenger rear as I believe they are on the same fuse.

NEVER heard of this, any ideas?

Thanks guys!

From another poster:

Have you disconnected your battery recently? Sounds like you need to reset your window switches. Here's how:
-Push the window switch down halfway. Meaning, don't let the switch click in the down position.
-Hold the switch in this position until the window rolls up all the way to the top.
-Keep holding the switch (should be about 3 seconds) until you hear a little "click".
-This will reset your automatic window control.

The W210 windows are not at all like the 123/124/126 windows.

Each door gets a fused feed from the fuse box (fronts from the front box, rears from the rear box). The voltage goes to the door controller module in each door. No more "LF/RR" and "RF/LR" fuse and relay arrangement.

The door controllers sit on the body CAN bus. The "lower field control module" aka the shifter wood surround, has the switches. When you press the switch it sends a CAN bus message from the controller integrated with the switches, through the CAN bus, to the door controller, which actually switches power to the motor.

I would first try retraining the windows as described above. If that does not help then it may be the regulator.

These regulators are notorious for failing. You'll need to pull the door card to access it.

The cheap knock offs from r0ck auto or ebay won't last BTDT. Get the OEM one from the dealer. You also have to drill out and replace the pop rivets, these are steel rivets, that cannot be set with a standard home center grade hand operated pop rivet gun. You need either a jumbo size pop rivet gun or a pneumatic one.

Will they go up with the key?

Good point

Try pointing the IR remote at the sensor in the driver and passenger doors and hold down the "lock" button. It should lock the doors and drive all the windows and sunroof closed. However, it will only do this if the training on the windows and sunroof is valid.

Note, they revised the 98-99 remote system to the SmartKey which is both IR and RF. The 96-97 210s used a strictly IR based system for all functions. The lock function became RF based (to an antenna in the upper control panel above the rear view mirror, which is why it works much better if you approach the car from the front rather than behind) and the legacy IR convenience open/close feature was carried over. To operate the IR feature they put IR receivers in the doors on the 98-99s and removed the mirror sensor and red/green lights.

Or pull out the blade key from the fob, insert it in the drivers lock, and twist and hold to the "lock" position for the same effect. Twisting the key to the unlock position opens everything. This key trick works from the last of the 124s through the entire 210 range to the present day models.

HEY GUYS. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!

I replaced my defective alternator with an upgraded 150 amp alternator the day before, which of course, required that I disconnect the battery...... I had nod idea, after reprogramming the radio code, that there may have been other systems that would need additional synchronization.....


That said. I followed the posted protocol and the windows restored as fully functional

Thank you so much