W123 Sway Bar Bushings

[1983/300CD]

My torsion/sway bar is 24mm diameter.
The new bushing hole is 20.7mm diameter.
There is a gap at the firewall that I can't close. And then I need to get the bracket over it. What's the trick? Any advice would be appreciated.

[vwnate1]

I did this not fun fiddly job last Summer, because I knew it'd be bad if the parts weren't 1,000 % I bought them from the M-B Classic Center and the only hassles I had was lack of working space ~ everything went right to - gether smoothly .

Unless you're using M-B parts I suggest getting those as a first step .

? I'd imagine the wagon bar to be larger diameter, maybe ? .

[1983/300CD]

I understand the wagon is 25mm, and the bushing has a different hole configuration. I have the right aftermarket (Meyle) bushing. I found a post saying I should heat it up, grease it up, stuff it in, and clamp it down. That might work okay for the passenger side, but trying to hold the bracket down on a slippery bushing under the brake booster and getting the nuts on is probably going to be frustrating.

[1983/300CD]

The passenger side was less problem than I expected. I put it into a big cup with boiling water for about 5 minutes, then coated the inside and outside with sil-glide. I also prepared the body pocket and torsion bar with lube. When it's oriented correctly with the nub to the front and the bracket is cupping over it properly, the threads will pop through the holes just enough to start the nuts. Tightening them down smashes it together in back. No big deal. I'm dreading the driver's side, though.

[vwnate1]

Excellent .

I had to just *barely* begin the 8MM nuts on their threads one thn the other then I was able to draw them up and tighten .

As you said, clearance is the main issue .

Remember to use Loctite on the bolts on the sway bar's ends ! failure to do so often results in them loosening up and falling out as you drive, long after you've forgotten you ever touched them before .

Sounds like you're in the home stretch .

[1983/300CD]

The driver's side took a bit more wiggling, but it was manageable without removing the brake booster. The bottom nut is a straight shot with three ratchet extensions, so that's not a problem. With a U-joint, 13mm socket, and one extension, I managed to get the top one out too. I got at it through the window in the fender wall, but it is probably accessible through the top. I pulled the old bushing out through the window hole with channel locks. I thought I would be able to slip the new bushing on from the front, but that was slippery and too hard to do. I found it easier to put it onto the bar at the curve in the wheel well and turn the corner with it. Installation of the bracket is a little tricky, trying to put nuts on studs with fingertips, but it can be done. I just did the UCA's, LCA bushings, sway bar links, and I'm about to install a new (remanufactured) steering box. This should make a difference.
I would be in the home stretch, but I ordered LCA bushings from a place that sent me a box with a broken sticker seal. It had bushings and a blue nut, no tube. Now I'm waiting for the replacement.