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  #16  
Old 10-29-2016, 02:31 PM
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Do you have an indy with an alignment machine or a stealer near you? Many shops aren't qualified to diagnose and align cars. They simply put them on the machine, "align to specs" and wonder why they don't handle well. A competent front end man can easily fix your car.

Keep your bumper cover if possible. It will be higher quality than aftermarket. Many cores are refurbished and yours can likely be repaired (if the body man is competent). If competent, take his advice.

Just run the claim through the other's carrier. Have the bodyshop note what parts are needed. You should stay on top of things because shops deal with insurance frequently and are not necessarily on your side. They frequently want to get paid and go.

Someone poked a hole in VW bumper. Estimates were upwards of $700. I decided to take the depreciation because VW is buying diesels back. I had the bumper repaired instead of replacing and it looks fine. I don't know that I would have done that with a care I cared about.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #17  
Old 10-29-2016, 03:02 PM
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The CHASSIS MANUAL shows exactly how to measure the frame ..... from several points to a jig on the ground which MB has....
Assume your car is not body on frame... thus very important you find out if it is Tweaked.... before putting much money into it... Frame alignment shops ( and MB ) are equipped for this kind of work... but anyone else is suspect...
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  #18  
Old 10-29-2016, 03:12 PM
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I'm not that smart, I bought a "totalled" one in similar condition about 6-8 years ago and it did the same thing.
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2016, 03:54 PM
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My body guy is extremely competent...trust him implicitly.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #21  
Old 10-29-2016, 04:18 PM
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Do some research on the different types of frame machines used by body shops. The really great ones are expensive but do the job correctly. Also, some frame shops are Mercedes benz certified while others are not.

The Chief EZ Liner system is top drawer; check out THIS! (take some time to peruse this website, you will obtain a LOT more knowledge and understand more how to speak knowledgeably with your frame straightener guy):

Computerized Measuring Tools | Chief Automotive

Last edited by HuskyMan; 10-29-2016 at 04:56 PM.
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  #22  
Old 10-29-2016, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
My body guy is extremely competent...trust him implicitly.
What did he say about the situation ?
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  #23  
Old 10-29-2016, 04:58 PM
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If available I'd track down three or more frame straightening shops and let them look at the car and give you a repair estimate. In the past, I've made the mistake of trusting only ONE shop to my own detriment. In other words; the old saying, there is safety in many counselors........plus, check out the Chief Ezliner website, I imagine if you called Chief and ran the situation past them they could give you some da** good advice.
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  #24  
Old 10-29-2016, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
What did he say about the situation ?
Said it's unlikely frame is damaged....wheel bearings shot....all told about $2,000 to fix just based on visual.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #25  
Old 10-30-2016, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
That's interesting, Jeff. I backed it up and, sure enough, the front went down! Drove around the block, pulled forward into driveway, and now level appears to be back to normal.
Sometimes when the front end alignment is displaced enough. You actually can hear a clunk when going from forward to reverse. The rise and fall could also be logical as well.

Although I have never experienced that myself or just Missed it. It was not a worn part. I figured the car had had a hard curb hit perhaps.

Anyways it went back into proper alignment with the eccentric adjustment on the frame. The lower control arm did not appear to be bent either. The clunk was also gone after the adjustment.

Since I had acquired the car this way I had no real history but it was a 240d. Tire wear also indicated a serious toe in condition had existed.
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  #26  
Old 10-30-2016, 10:54 AM
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Although cars like the 124 seem and are very sturdy, a great deal of engineeringwent into providing energy absorption for a hit at any point, which means yield. The 124 chassis was the most rigid production chassis by quite a margin at (IIRC) 54hz, made use of a lot of high-tensile steel, andhad to be designed to bend and absorb impacts in spite of this rigidity.

The front suspension hit will be transferring this energy into the front subframenear the engine mounts. Even if it looks straight, I would insist on having the car thoroughly checked on a frame rack before accepting any settlement or even an estimate.
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  #27  
Old 10-30-2016, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Although cars like the 124 seem and are very sturdy, a great deal of engineeringwent into providing energy absorption for a hit at any point, which means yield. The 124 chassis was the most rigid production chassis by quite a margin at (IIRC) 54hz, made use of a lot of high-tensile steel, andhad to be designed to bend and absorb impacts in spite of this rigidity.

The front suspension hit will be transferring this energy into the front subframenear the engine mounts. Even if it looks straight, I would insist on having the car thoroughly checked on a frame rack before accepting any settlement or even an estimate.
Great advice; last time I was at the MB stealership, I asked about their body shop. They told me they don't have a body shop and refer all frame straightening/body issues out to independent body shops. Yeah well, some are MB certified, some are not.

The Chief EZ liner system will tell you right up front if the frame is straight or not. They can then pull the frame straight. It's too easy for the car to appear correct and may even drive straight when their is hidden damage. Only systems such as the Chief EZ liner can accurately determine if there is hidden damage or not.

In addition, I've found that in most instances, shops that own the necessary equipment to properly perform accurate frame analysis/repairs exists only in the big cities, i.e. Houston, Dallas, Phoenix, Philadelphia, Orlando, etc. because it all costs a LOT of $$$$$$$. It takes a big city to bring in enough business to support machinery like the Chief EZ liner system. Small town mechanics/body repair shops just can't keep up........
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  #28  
Old 11-01-2016, 11:13 AM
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State Farm has assumed 100% liability....adjuster coming out today. In RI, it's a total loss once you hit 75% of ACV. NADA average retail is $5075, high is $8500. Will be interesting to see what State Farm does.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #29  
Old 11-01-2016, 12:05 PM
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Shertex-
It has (thankfully) been years since I have been in a similar situation, but even after the other person's insurance accepted responsibility, it turned out to be a huge headache. I would not prepare yourself to be offered the NADA guide price. They will (probably) use recent private sales (aka the lowest price possible) of the same year of vehicle to determine the price. I would encourage you to start your own research of recent sales. In my case, it had to be actual sales, not asking prices. In my situation, they threw out the high price and the low price, and then offered me the average of the remaining sales. I tried to use similar year vehicles, but they refused to average any data that wasn't the exact same year. Anyway, it was a huge headache and involved countless arguments. My office-mates at the time said it was the first time they had seen me get angry with someone. Anyway, hopefully you won't go through the same thing. But like I said, don't expect NADA prices, and it would make sense to do your own research on recent sales to figure out if the price they offer you is fair. Good luck.

When all is said and done, if you feel comfortable, I would be interested to learn what price they offer you and how it compares to the NADA guide. Thanks.
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  #30  
Old 11-01-2016, 12:25 PM
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Yes, I will keep this thread updated until everything is resolved....in part to help others and in part because of the catharsis it provides!

How does one go about getting reliable (and verifiable) private party sales data?

I've got some faded paint but otherwise the car is perfect...and only 118,000 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortsguy1 View Post
Shertex-
It has (thankfully) been years since I have been in a similar situation, but even after the other person's insurance accepted responsibility, it turned out to be a huge headache. I would not prepare yourself to be offered the NADA guide price. They will (probably) use recent private sales (aka the lowest price possible) of the same year of vehicle to determine the price. I would encourage you to start your own research of recent sales. In my case, it had to be actual sales, not asking prices. In my situation, they threw out the high price and the low price, and then offered me the average of the remaining sales. I tried to use similar year vehicles, but they refused to average any data that wasn't the exact same year. Anyway, it was a huge headache and involved countless arguments. My office-mates at the time said it was the first time they had seen me get angry with someone. Anyway, hopefully you won't go through the same thing. But like I said, don't expect NADA prices, and it would make sense to do your own research on recent sales to figure out if the price they offer you is fair. Good luck.

When all is said and done, if you feel comfortable, I would be interested to learn what price they offer you and how it compares to the NADA guide. Thanks.

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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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