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  #16  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:32 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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These pics is when I first installed the battery while it was sitting. I'll have to check it again and report back.

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  #17  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:36 PM
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Probably not fully charged. I'd check the date code on it. If it sat around for a long time I'd show the store the pic and ask to swap for another one. Bring the DVM with you to check voltage.
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  #18  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:49 PM
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If you're already showing 13.92v on a partially-discharged battery, I am concerned what the voltage will be once the battery is fully-charged, same 3300rpm no load.

The voltage is already over the (optimum max.) 2.3v/cell (13.8v) float charge for a cold AGM battery, and the amount of apparent boiling leaving acid condensing on the top of the battery leads me to suspect that the no-load highway output from your alternator is even higher.

I had a high school shop teacher many years ago (when these cars were new) who claimed that on long drives you should always leave your headlights on to keep the alternator from overcharging the battery. He was raised in the electro-mechanical regulator era (even generators I'd expect), but there might be some truth to this even with an electronic regulator from the '80s/'90s.
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  #19  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Probably not fully charged. I'd check the date code on it. If it sat around for a long time I'd show the store the pic and ask to swap for another one. Bring the DVM with you to check voltage.
It's probably because the battery sat in my possession. I actually I bought the battery during the summer and drove it shortly. When the A/C failed, I didn't drive it and then I decided to remove the Greasecar tank for cleaning after 9 years of use. That process took a while. While it was down, I finally decided to clean the tray and look underneath for rust. Which brings me to this thread. I've been driving it around, so the battery should be charged now.
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
If you're already showing 13.92v on a partially-discharged battery, I am concerned what the voltage will be once the battery is fully-charged, same 3300rpm no load.

The voltage is already over the (optimum max.) 2.3v/cell (13.8v) float charge for a cold AGM battery, and the amount of apparent boiling leaving acid condensing on the top of the battery leads me to suspect that the no-load highway output from your alternator is even higher.
....
Thanks, I'll recheck that again.
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  #21  
Old 10-31-2016, 07:25 PM
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Alright, I checked the car. It has been sitting for about a day and a half.

Cold voltage..


Idling voltage..


3,300 rpm voltage...


Interesting fluctuation on the charging readings. I'll have to keep an eye on it.


.

.
Attached Thumbnails
I am done with Flooded Lead Acid Batteries –  an AGM battery is it! –-agm-2ndvoltage1.jpg   I am done with Flooded Lead Acid Batteries –  an AGM battery is it! –-agm-2ndvoltage2.jpg   I am done with Flooded Lead Acid Batteries –  an AGM battery is it! –-agm-2ndvoltage3.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:38 PM
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Looks like it's perfectly normal to me.
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  #23  
Old 11-13-2016, 02:58 PM
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I too, switched to an AGM battery. While I was at it I also replaced the negative battery cable and routed the ventilation tube down to outside the car using a clear extension (so any acid fumes vented by the battery does not dissipate into the engine bay).


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  #24  
Old 11-13-2016, 04:13 PM
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The blue top looks great also.
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  #25  
Old 11-17-2016, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
I too, switched to an AGM battery. While I was at it I also replaced the negative battery cable and routed the ventilation tube down to outside the car using a clear extension (so any acid fumes vented by the battery does not dissipate into the engine bay).

..
Hey Pat that looks great. Your car will be very appreciative 30 years from now!

Thanks for posting a picture of the vent tube portion of it.


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