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  #16  
Old 10-31-2016, 07:10 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azitizz View Post
...

What I would liek to know form others experience, is how long to take out the engine? Any good Ideas on how to keep it mounted out of the car to transport etc...
Without cutting anything, it usually takes me about 5 hours to pull a motor out. And that's taking my time.


As far as storing. I like to separate the trans and store the engines on a Harborfreight 1000 lbs rated movers dolly. They are easy to move around the shop if needed.

1000 Lb. Capacity Mover's Dolly




I even start the engines on them. All of them have been very balanced that they don't jump off the dollys.
Here is one of them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DddvRwqugGs

.

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Bye Bye 300TD, how long to take out engine?-harborfreightdollys617.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2016, 06:16 AM
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Trevor Hadlington
 
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I would take lots of pictures, if it was me doing the job, so i know how the bits and bobs go back on.
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2016, 02:57 PM
Shadetree
 
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Originally Posted by vonsmog View Post
Here is where I like to clip the front when parting them out! Take everything out of the way.
I appreciate that photo. I have destroyed a 126 body by removing major portions of the wiring harness to use on an diesel engine swap.

I fully intend to use a saw to remove body component that are just in the way. Any sheet metal parts that can't be sold except at the scrap yard are fair game.
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  #19  
Old 11-01-2016, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
As far as storing. I like to separate the trans and store the engines on a Harborfreight 1000 lbs rated movers dolly. They are easy to move around the shop if needed.

1000 Lb. Capacity Mover's Dolly


.
Was wondering if a moving dolly be stable enough or strong enough. Was going to make something, but now thanks to this information, why bother.

How do you get them to sit stable enough to run?
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  #20  
Old 11-04-2016, 11:47 AM
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"What I would like to know form others experience, is how long to take out the engine? Any good Ideas on how to keep it mounted out of the car to transport etc... "

On the previously stripped W123s & W126s that have given up engines at my shop, we've done it as quickly as 30 minutes using the smoke wrench, sawzall, bolt cutters (or cable cutters) & an end loader. (one person = 30 minutes, 2 or more = a little less). For quickee stable spot to hold the engine we have used old truck tires (16" or larger, sans wheel). Car tires don't work as well because their sidewalls aren't as stiff, and the center holes are usually too small.

You could try this to move it around the shop. Eventually the wheels/axles fail.


Last edited by Charlie Foxtrot; 11-04-2016 at 12:46 PM.
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  #21  
Old 11-04-2016, 03:22 PM
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Another engine removal trick - you can leave the oil cooler attached. Backing off the line nuts can be a real stinker and you'll often end up bending the hard lines into the cooler rendering it pretty much useless. So just unbolt it from the core support and take it with the engine.

Not sayin' Charlie Foxtrot is wrong but don't expect to get it out in 30 minutes the first time though if you've done a bunch of them you probably could. I still say that half a day is realistic if you stay focused.

Dan
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  #22  
Old 11-05-2016, 10:22 AM
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My method is mostly yank, hack & whack using a tractor/loader as a hoist. Not trying to save the re-use-able, undamaged body parts - they've already been stripped for other customers. Just pulling the engine & trans & cutting off everything holding it to the body/frame stubs. Hardest part is the driveshaft flex joint. I agree w/Dan that a careful removal takes a half-day, or better. I usually buy wrecks as needed to supply a body part (typically the hood) or chassis part (typically rear LCA w/bearing). By the time we get to the engine, nothing else is left. My engine buyers are usually putting them in jeeps, tho the last one went into a forklift. I like the jeep install so much, I bought an old clapped out Comanche (little p/u) for a 617 install. We'll see how that goes (It was either a 617 or a 4BT. I have a spare 617 turbo and a 4B laying in the shop - the turbo won.)
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  #23  
Old 11-05-2016, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Without cutting anything, it usually takes me about 5 hours to pull a motor out. And that's taking my time.


As far as storing. I like to separate the trans and store the engines on a Harborfreight 1000 lbs rated movers dolly. They are easy to move around the shop if needed.

1000 Lb. Capacity Mover's Dolly




I even start the engines on them. All of them have been very balanced that they don't jump off the dollys.
Here is one of them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DddvRwqugGs

.
Nice vidio D.V. tell me what did you do with the oil cooler lines, and other lines going to pressure gage and turbo? Did you cap them off with something? Oh when I watched vidio again I saw the hose you looped on the oil cooler lines guess on back of filter houseing you just capped them off. Like that vidio.

Last edited by yuke; 11-05-2016 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Added to
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  #24  
Old 11-06-2016, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
Good luck trying to rotate the engine should you want to. It's a two person job.
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
Good luck trying to rotate the engine should you want to. It's a two person job.
Or you lube the snot out of the pivot before assembly which helps a ton. I use wheel bearing grease. My Chevy sixes (even longer) sometimes require the use of the engine hoist to take some of the weight off which helps a lot.

Dan
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  #26  
Old 11-07-2016, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Was wondering if a moving dolly be stable enough or strong enough. Was going to make something, but now thanks to this information, why bother.

How do you get them to sit stable enough to run?
Just sit the engine on there it's balanced. Make sure you get the oil pan and the intermediate plate on the front and rear cross beams of the dolly.

Of course if you are moving it around, take care to not get a wheels stuck as it could tip it over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yuke View Post
Nice vidio D.V. tell me what did you do with the oil cooler lines, and other lines going to pressure gage and turbo? Did you cap them off with something? Oh when I watched vidio again I saw the hose you looped on the oil cooler lines guess on back of filter houseing you just capped them off. Like that vidio.
Yes, I looped the cooler line, and I used a bolt and crush washer to cap of the turbo line. As far as the pressure gauge port, I used a .952 oil filter housing in place of a .951 style so I could use a mechanical w123 gauge instead of an electronic w126 gauge. I also filled the engine up with coolant and plugged the hoses to keep as much in there as possible.


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  #27  
Old 11-07-2016, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Just sit the engine on there it's balanced. Make sure you get the oil pan and the intermediate plate on the front and rear cross beams of the dolly.

Of course if you are moving it around, take care to not get a wheels stuck as it could tip it over.
It's not a bad idea to block it up with hunks of 2X4 screwed to the dolly. I have one of my Chevy sixes secured that way. Just make a block that fits from the dolly to something stout on the engine - mount, pan rail, whatever falls to hand. If you screw it to the dolly it'll stay in place and if the wheels get caught when rolling it around it probably won't tip (at least the Chevy doesn't). Just a little cheap insurance.

Dan
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Just sit the engine on there it's balanced. Make sure you get the oil pan and the intermediate plate on the front and rear cross beams of the dolly.

Of course if you are moving it around, take care to not get a wheels stuck as it could tip it over.


.
Thank you so much for getting back to us!

So oil pan goes in between?

Yes, that is my fear. Guess need to figure out a way once out to drag it across on a scrap of O.S.B. to the concrete.

Honestly, only reason keeping is for a possible project, as non-turbo engines, even wagon engines, are worth nothing except scrap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
It's not a bad idea to block it up with hunks of 2X4 screwed to the dolly. I have one of my Chevy sixes secured that way. Just make a block that fits from the dolly to something stout on the engine - mount, pan rail, whatever falls to hand. If you screw it to the dolly it'll stay in place and if the wheels get caught when rolling it around it probably won't tip (at least the Chevy doesn't). Just a little cheap insurance.

Dan
Dan, would not still feel comfortable running it over gravel. Even if strapped down, once tipped over, be a real pain to get back upright, especially since work alone (no one here in the Phoenix area, especially out east, owns a W123 and works on them).
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2016, 06:47 PM
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I'd keep it off gravel, too!

Dan

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