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  #1  
Old 10-30-2016, 11:06 PM
azitizz's Avatar
MB 1985 300TD Wagon
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
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Bye Bye 300TD, how long to take out engine?

Saying goodbye to my 1985 300TD. The wagon has served us well for almost 10yrs. The Tranny is shot it appears and too many other things going wrong with it including rust through the floor, that I took it off the road....

But Im not totally ready to say goodbye.

I would like to keep the engine and perhaps put it into a Jeep Cherokee. Mercedes Diesel 4x4.com OM617 Jeep Conversion Kits sells some kits for helping a conversion...

Im not set on it yet, but am pondering seriously.

What I would liek to know form others experience, is how long to take out the engine? Any good Ideas on how to keep it mounted out of the car to transport etc...

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  #2  
Old 10-30-2016, 11:27 PM
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If your scrapping out the car, than cut all the sheet metal out in front of the motor. Makes removal much easier. Should be able to pull it with the transmission in about 3 hours if you have the correct tools and know how to use them.
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2016, 11:41 PM
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Back when I was continually putting the 617 engine in and out of my 380SL swap project I could have it out in 4 hrs and back in in 5 working by myself. You can just cut the front out rather than trying to tilt the engine to clear the front so that will save a bunch of time.

For a cart you can fab up something like this -



Keep the transmission just to have a rear support.

Or just get a HF moving dolly and put the engine on that. That's actually what I'm using at the moment for my junk/spare engine.
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  #4  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:02 AM
azitizz's Avatar
MB 1985 300TD Wagon
 
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Location: Winnipeg, Canada
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Great info. Any pictures of how much to cut off in the front?

Can the engine be run out the vehicle? My guess is because of the radiator and no coolant it wouldn't be a good Idea?

I thought of getting it steam cleaned also while its out...
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:26 AM
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Something like this should do the job



The engine can be run out of the car for short periods without coolant...a minute or so is fine. You'll need to keep the oil cooler hooked up or risk a nice mess.

Definitely get it steam cleaned....and consider getting components detailed.







Oh, and here's another stand...

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  #6  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:16 AM
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If you're going to run it out of the car, cap the oil pressure sender too!
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  #7  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:45 AM
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I've pulled a 617 and a 616, both with the trans. Each took about a half day but I DO have a hoist which makes it simpler though you certainly can do it without. Cut the exhaust as it can frustrate you no end to take it apart (beg or borrow a Sawsall). I agree to cut the center out of the top of the core support (can't remember if it's a bolt-out or not). Anyhow, give yourself some clearance there.

You'll need some universal joints for your socket set (I have dedicated universal joint sockets but an adaptor will work pretty well) as well as metric hex (Allen) sockets - if you don't have them buy 'em! Harbor Freight is your friend here. While at HF grab at least a 12" extension if you don't have one. Another HF goodie worth having is a load tilter for the engine hoist. I think mine was $35 or so. Well worth it but lube the heck out of it when you you get it so it'll work easier. You can rent an engine hoist if you don't have one but I've never seen a tilter at a rental place.

Keep as much of the wiring harness intact as you can. Things like the alternator plugs will prove invaluable for your swap as well as sensor plugs, etc.

On the stand - my spare engine is on an HF (sounds like an HF ad all of a sudden but I DO use their stuff) stand but get a 4 wheel stand. They offer a 3 wheel but they're tippy and especially with a fairly long engine like a 617. Again, lube the heck out of the pivot before using or you'll find it almost impossible to rotate the engine. Look in my thread for pic of the side mount bracket I made as it can be a tough to mount these engines from the rear like most "normal" engines.

EDIT: Let me try to post the pics. Success, I think. Thought I'd already posted these but maybe not.

Best of luck

Dan
Attached Thumbnails
Bye Bye 300TD, how long to take out engine?-img_1355.jpg   Bye Bye 300TD, how long to take out engine?-img_1356.jpg   Bye Bye 300TD, how long to take out engine?-img_1357.jpg  

Last edited by Dan Stokes; 10-31-2016 at 09:03 AM.
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  #8  
Old 10-31-2016, 09:19 AM
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I have a spare engine on a simple cart made with a rectangle of 4x4s, 4 casters from Menards. Can't run it on the cart but it rolls and fits low under a workbench. Took 20minutes to cut and lag-bolt together.

I have another on a purchased work stand, easy to work on but takes a lot of space for storage.
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  #9  
Old 10-31-2016, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
If you're going to run it out of the car, cap the oil pressure sender too!
Good point! When I ran mine it was with a SD oil filter canister that uses an electronic sender, so missed that little detail.
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  #10  
Old 10-31-2016, 10:37 AM
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How much was that harbor freight engine tranny stand?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #11  
Old 10-31-2016, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
How much was that harbor freight engine tranny stand?
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  #12  
Old 10-31-2016, 10:59 AM
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Check your local craigslist, I bought mine used once / looks new for $25.
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:23 PM
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Here is where I like to clip the front when parting them out! Take everything out of the way.
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:35 PM
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A tidbit but maybe useful - You don't HAVE to pull the hood. There's a little latch on the hinge that allows the hood to go straight up. I left 'em on for both the engines I pulled.

Dan
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  #15  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:37 PM
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That's one of the ones I have (I have several) and it's the one that the spare engine is on. Of course, I made the side mount but a decent welding shop would probably make one for, say, $100. Gotta tell you, that side mount is the cat's behind and more.

Dan

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