As the title says, it's not starting properly.

It's been dragging to fire since a while. Way too many turns.
I gave it a new battery couple of weeks ago. Not any better, still cranking too many times

The yellow pre-glow light doesn't come on since some time. Can that be an indication that the relay is not even working to delivery voltage to the glow plugs?

I am looking into checking the glow plug resistance. Where do I place the tester points?

I guess I'd have to do some voltage and resistance measuring to start making an assessment? Any advise appreciated.

Ps, it does get fuel, because once it fires, it blows a big cloud of diesel smoke.
As soon as the block has some remaining temperature, it will fire right away.

Check the relay. Really simple to replace if that's the case

Check the relay fuse.

Yes, thank you. Just found out about that after making a few phone calls.

If two or more glow plugs are dead the light will not come on either.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

You are going to need a volt ohm meter (multimeter) to do the testing.
(Note that my Glow Plug Light does not come on but I have no issues starting. In may case that could mean the Light Bulb is burned out.)

Have someone turn the Glow Plugs on and check the Voltage where the wire attaches to the Glow Plugs. However, that only tells you voltage is getting to the Glow Plugs.
After that the check the resistance of each glow Plug.

When you remove the plastic cover on the Glow Plug Relay you can see the metal strip fuse. Take a good look at it and see if the fuse is cracked which is less obvious then if it was burned.

A symptom of one or more bad glow plugs is when the Engine does start after it starts it will run a little rough until the engine gets hot.

Another thing that can cause hard starting is if the Valves need to be adjusted which of course has no ralation to the glow plug light.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you guys. I just checked the voltage. It works fine, the relay switches off as well and the fuse looks good.

I didn't bother to measure the resistance of the glow plugs. I will get a set of new ones and take the old ones out. I can still check them when they're out.
I just think new glow plug are due.

I got the car a year ago, lots of things have been replaced since I have it, but not the glow plugs. Who knows how long those have been in there.

Not sure where the Trump Empire is (location you have listed) but after a valve adjustment this time of year mine starts a little easier. That and I also just change all 5 GPs every other year.

SoCal, L.A. We rarely have frost or worse.
It's a little chill in the morning these days, so it becomes more obvious.

The car was a low mileage garage queen, but it needed some restoration.
I don't drive it much, it's a weekend car.

It starts and runs great, once the block has a little temperature. It's not getting enough pre-heat when the engine is cold.
I think the glow plugs are just really bad. I should have thought of it way sooner.

Use one of the methods in the repair links to ream the carbon out of the Glow Plug Holes.

Note don't use Autolite Plugs as if it was not bad enough that the don't last long the tips swell and they are hard to get out.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have 5 Bosch GPs on order.
I wanted to see how easily they move. Warmed up the engine, they turn like butter, very nicely.
Since I don't have the new ones, I thought i check the resistance. They are all in the same value range.
Between 1.4 and 1.8 ohm. They don't look so bad after all.
What value are they supposed to be?

To ream seems like a good idea, but I would have to get the tool for that.
Btw, today it was warm and dry, ~85, it fired right up.
Maybe it may need a valve adjustment or something else.

As Sloride suggested... it is always good to be sure the valve adjustment is correct.

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

There is 2 commercially made glow plug reamers. An older style sold by El Paso Tool and Baum Tool (see peach parts) and a new Hazet one.

But, our members have found less expensive ways to deal with it in the Repair Links.

Repair Links Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

to start and run these stone-age diesels. Sounds like you have done most of the basics although I didn't see anything about changing fuel filters. If you have done a good valve adjustment, filters and new glow plugs there is no reason it shouldn't start with one revolution of the engine. Except for one of course: Compression.

They should be right at 1 ohm... it sounds like all are bad. Pulling them and testing with jumper cables is the best way to tell... they need to heat up fast, and ONLY AT THE TIP.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!