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#1
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Oil filter housing cap bent. (w115 300d)
HI
So in removing my oil filter housing cap I noticed its bent inward in a few locations. I imagine this may cause leaking? If so any recommendations on how to get it flared back out? Can I take it to a machine shop or something? Also there is no seal around where the bolts go into the cap, is this normal or should I source a seal? It seems the spring doesn't want to remove from the bolt, is this per design? I circled the areas to make my poor ability to communicate more clear. Thanks for your time, sterling Last edited by sterling; 11-06-2016 at 03:47 PM. |
#2
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A sealing ring is missing between the bolt and housing. Bend the housing back neatly by tapping a pipe or socket against the bend to shape it round. Is the plastic filter still there? Are you using diesel rated oil?
This link may help... http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/342569-oil-filter-200d.html Good luck!!!
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#3
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No I need to order a new plastic filter.
I am using diesel rated oil, will be. I can't seem to disassemble the bolt from the spring thats inside the cap, is this normal I don't want to break anything, I can't see how to get the seal on without removing the bolt. http://eva2.homeip.net/W115/program/Engine/615/18-005.pdf this schematic seems to imply it does. thank for the reference post it give me a good resource about oil to change i would not have know of. |
#4
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After you straighten it out one of our members said that ACE Hardware sells Aluminum Washers with rubber insided (NU-lip bonded aluminum washer). Don't know what sizes they have.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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It has been many years since doing one of these but my recollection is that the bolt just pulls out with some tugging and twisting. Nothing special retaining it just friction.
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#6
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Thank you. You gave me the confidence to tap it out and it came out rather easy.
The schematic said retainer spring so I just wanted to make sure it didn't have a special removal process. |
#7
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The problem you may have with straightening is that cast aluminum doesn't bend very well, if at all. I'm not sure, but I would definitely read up on "bending cast aluminum".
Some mention the magic number of max. 500 degrees before it becomes extremely brittle or melts. Others mention that working it very cold is the solution. Some of the more experienced talk about heating it to 495 degrees then quenching in ice. As you can see, there is all sorts of conflicting information. Unlike steel, working with aluminum becomes very complex depending on the alloy. Give it due diligence and do your homework! If you decide on a method and find that it works, please let us know. It could save many from a huge disappointment when they come across this same problem.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#8
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The part that needs to be straightened is the can that holds the filter element, I don't recall it being aluminum.
Sterling, you could test it with a magnet and let us know. SD Blue is correct cast aluminum does crack easily.
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#9
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I discovered that the housing that mounts to the engine is cast aluminum but the cap is steel. Thank you for the word of warning as i very well could have went to tap on it and had to spend 3 months sourcing the part.
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