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#16
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Yes, it originally did have a short vented cover so it looks OK. I will guess that the switchover itself if bad. Vented cover might have been to keep out dust; I do not know. I just discarded mine.
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#17
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I'll also note that you could run a line straight from the back of the intake manifold to the ALDA, eliminating the switchover valve. The only thing it does is kill the fuel if it sense too much boost (overboost protection), but the choice is yours. BTW, it does this by interrupting the signal going to the ALDA, but it gets its boost input from a sensor on the intake manifold.
-Rog |
#18
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I just found a vacuum line on the end of the intake manifold wide open. obviously loosing boost. I blocked it with a bolt. not sure wet where it needs to be hooked up. gonna run an errand in the car right now and see what happens.
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#19
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Transmission Shift Point Change-Over Valve, [More Info] [view in catalog] Brand: Hella Note: Location-Engine Bay
Not exactly sure but I think this above is the switchover valve from Pelican. I looked in my files and pulled the part number 001-540-86-97 from 2008 and it was $70 at the stealership in Atlanta. Looks like Pelican has a better price. RBM called it a Solenoid Valve. The top hose/plastic tube is long and goes over the back of the valve cover and plugs into the intake manifold just in front of the firewall and on the passenger side of the valve cover. You should see a nipple there. The bottom hose/plastic tube is short and goes to the ALDA located at the rear of the injection pump. Just re-read everything. If that bolt stoppered hose goes to the back of the valve cover/intake manifold nipple - then the hose came off the top of the switchover valve - the top has two nipples in a L configuration. You might just pop the hose back on and be good to go. Let us know. Last edited by tyl604; 11-07-2016 at 02:17 PM. |
#20
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^ It does not plug into the exhaust header, it plugs into the intake manifold. There's a boost line that goes from there, through the switchover valve, and to the ALDA (not the shutoff valve, which is controlled by vacuum via the ignition switch). You can see in the pic that the line with the bolt in it goes to the bottom of the switchover valve. The bolt end is the end that would go to the intake manifold. Kinda already explained all this in my post...
OP: Literally everything in your pic is hooked up correctly except for the bolted line, do not go mucking around with the rest. The hole/line that you found open at the back of the intake is exactly where the bolted line would normally go to. Yes, that's enough of a boost leak to cause problems, I've had it happen before. -Rog |
#21
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Rog - I think you are right on both accounts. Went and looked again and it is not the exhaust manifold so I attach a pic. I had also forgotten that the ALDA is the name of the part where the bottom hose attaches; so I attach a second pic. I also corrected that post so no one in the future gets the wrong info.
I am calling the top of the new switchover valve the end without the elec connection just to be clear. The long hose goes there and one nipple is left open. The short hose to the ALDA goes on the bottom. Did I get that right? Last edited by tyl604; 11-07-2016 at 02:17 PM. |
#22
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my head is spinning so much info. the bolted in of the switchover hose goes to the loose connection on the back of the intake that was loosing boost??? or to the alda also I see one fitting on what looks like the turbo waist gate that has no hose on it. ill post pics
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#23
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qw
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#24
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First - connect the short plastic tube to then ALDA then to the end of the switchover valve with the elec connection.
Next connect the long plastic tube to the intake manifold at the firewall just past the valve cover; then connect it to the end of the switchover valve without the elec connection - there are two nipples; leave the one pointing straight up open. Do not know about the other one - maybe Rog does. I will take a look at my SD. |
#25
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ok so I'm thinking if its ok, ill go strait from the intake to the alda right?? ill pull off that clear line and put on the line from the intake
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#26
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Weird wild stuff...
Basically the two ends with bolts plugging them should be connected to each other. A fine workaround would be to connect the line from the back of the intake manifold directly to the ALDA. Your last pic(s) is of the wastegate. The port on that needs to see boost pressure. Typically there's a port directly on the turbo housing (cold side) that suppies the wastegate via a rubber line. If for some reason the turbo doesn't have this then tapping in to the line to the ALDA would be better than nothing. I imagine it would be quite a different car to drive if you got all that sorted out. -Rog |
#27
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ok. I hooked the line on the intake direct to the alda and all fixed. got back 100% power. then I cut the seal off the alda adjustment and turned it about 1 whole turn. my car is like a freakin racing Mercedes diesel crap car!!!!
its boosting to 14 psi and hauling ass (300d ass) its F YA!! is that too much boost? I don't have an egt gauge. thanks for all the help guys you saved my butt again. |
#28
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wow it did a pealout on some sand in my driveway!!
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#29
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race car
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#30
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ok now I will address the waist gate line
THANKS !!!! |
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