1987 W124 ....suddenly no glow plug light

[zu!]

Well, I needed to fix the delivery valve seals on my Benz as it was leaking a lot. Removed the intake manifold carefully, did the seals and put he manifold back carefully. Took all day to do it.

Now, get in the car to crank and no plug light! I must've buggered it somehow, but I don't have a clue how to check!! Someone please help as I really need my car tomorrow.


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[zu!]

Ok...found the problem.

Probably caused by my use of the booster battery. I don't keep a spare fuse like this. Is it possible to use some wire instead? Another thing...how long do I need to crank to get fuel out from the injector side? Been going at at awhile now with no fuel seen.


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[babymog]

Is it possible that you have a glow plug wire shorted?

[zu!]

Anything is possible. But I would say that everything was running very well before except for the leak, which meant I could not park on an incline, or no start.

I think it's most cos I use the "boost feature" on my battery charger that gives 16 volts as I thought that would help in the cranking. It's possible that shorted it?

How would I check? Battery's dead now and charging, but I could not see fuel coming out of my injector lines. Related to plugs being dead?


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[Diseasel300]

DO NOT USE WIRE TO JUMPER THIS FUSE!!!!! There, I said it. If you have a short downstream, you can cause a fire! That fuse burned out for a reason and you need to check why.

Since you were under the intake manifold, it's highly likely you have a glow plug wire shorted to ground or possibly damaged the wiring harness. Since this is a high current circuit, it's worth checking! Once you've determined that nothing is wrong or damaged (or you fixed the fault), replace the fuse and try again. If it blows again, you still have a problem!

After replacing the injector lines, I wouldn't expect you to have to crank that long to get fuel to bubble out if you didn't disturb the supply and return lines from the injection pump. When you're cranking, make sure you have the pedal mashed to the floor, it greatly speeds up the process.

If you're not getting fuel bubbling out of the hard lines after several 10-15 second cranking sessions, you likely have a leak somewhere in the supply side of things or a weak lift pump. If you have a poor connection somewhere between the tank and the lift pump (fuel thermostat is very common) you can suck air instead of fuel and have a hell of a time getting the fuel system reprimed.

[zu!]

I wish I read this just a few seconds ago. I just did and burnt my wires. I feel like crying. Smoke everywhere. Could not get the damned wires off the battery fast enough. It's all toast now. ****.


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[Diseasel300]

Ladies and Gentlemen, this is why fuses are installed...

NEVER EVER BYPASS A FUSE!!! IF IT BLOWS, FIND OUT WHY!!!

[Diseasel300]

Sorry to hear about your misfortune with the wiring harness, I wish I could have posted earlier in the evening and prevented disaster!

Bypassing fuses is a sore subject with me. My company manufactures electronic boards and everything is fused. I can't count the number of times I've had something sent in for repair with a solid wire bridged across the fuse holder and the foil burnt off the card! Take something that was a cheap repair and turn it into garbage, all for the cost of a 20˘ fuse...

[zu!]

Yeah. And I checked the thread again right before I turned the key. Oh well, not your fault.

I was emboldened when I read that it's an 80 amp fuse. So I thought, well, maybe I'll bridge that with a short wire. The smoke was quick and didn't stop until it was done.

I can see now that #5 is the culprit. But I think the whole damn thing (manifold etc) has to come out again just to get at things.

This couldn't happen at a worse time. I've just changed jobs and really need a vehicle for this new job. I'm so screwed it isn't funny.


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[Diseasel300]

We all make mistakes. I'd imagine if you asked any member on this forum, they'd admit they've done something they're not proud of. Don't beat yourself up over it, it's just wire and can be repaired.

More importantly, if it's an emergency and the car is in sound mechanical condition, you can probably get it to start without the glow plugs anyway. Get the fuel system purged of air and see if it'll start without glowing. Just leave the glow relay fuse open and the wiring harness to the glow plugs disconnected. Since you'll have no glow plugs operating, you can get away with *TINY* amounts of starting fluid puffed in the intake to get things lit off if you have to (others may suggest something else or something safer). It may run rough as a cob until it gets some heat in the cylinders, but it should get you there and back.

[zu!]

Thanks diesel 300. I really feel like a turd now. I went against everything I taught myself and still did it...I thought maybe it was the booster.

I just don't relish removing that damned manifold again.


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[Diseasel300]

At least it isn't the injection pump! I'm a pro at that job now...

[babymog]

Where are you zu?

[funola]

Originally Posted by zu!

Yeah. And I checked the thread again right before I turned the key. Oh well, not your fault.

I was emboldened when I read that it's an 80 amp fuse. So I thought, well, maybe I'll bridge that with a short wire. The smoke was quick and didn't stop until it was done.

I can see now that #5 is the culprit. But I think the whole damn thing (manifold etc) has to come out again just to get at things.

This couldn't happen at a worse time. I've just changed jobs and really need a vehicle for this new job. I'm so screwed it isn't funny.


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Next time, if you do not have the correct replacement fuse, use a piece of plumber's solder instead of a piece of wire.

[zu!]

Originally Posted by babymog

Where are you zu?

I'm in lower mainland of Vancouver. Pitt meadows.


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