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#1
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Alternator Rattling- HELP!!!
Tonight the belts started spitting and screaming on the 1984 300DT; somehow the belt tensioner on the alternator had loosened plus the 17mm nut on the back side of the alternator holding the long bolt connected to the tensioner had also come loose. I could literally move the alternator around with my hands...NOT GOOD!!
So....I tightened the tensioner until the belts had approx 1/2" play then retightened the 17mm nut. Question, to keep this from happening again I'm thinking of putting green thread locker on the 17mm nut to keep it from coming loose..... feedback is appreciated..... |
#2
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I certainly like thread locker liquids... I use RED stud and bearing mount on regular size nuts and bolts.. have since 1974 when my Superglide kept throwing nuts off the rear fenders... it only adds about 5 foot pounds of added torque to taking them apart...
I do not use it on BIG nuts like the 200 ft lb flywheel nut on a aircooled VW engine.. but in the archives there may be something you should check in addition to adding the thread locker... some other thread or something which should be checked and fixed also... several discussions on this but i do not remember the details...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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I have never seen the bolts loosen on my 84 or 85 alternator. Did you tighten all 3? There is the lower pivot bolt (17 mm), and two upper clamp bolts, as I recall. The one closest to the engine was an extra-b*tch in my 85 CA in "as found" condition. Those engines have a heat shield on the alternator rear which blocks wrench access, as does the EGR valve and AC tubes. Now that the later 2 are gone, access is much easier. For those new to this, note that the front nut you see is welded to the bracket, so don't put a wrench on it.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#4
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I'm thinking of using both thread locker and adding a lock washer to all three nuts to stop them from backing out. Also making sure all three bolts are good and tight per Bill's suggestion. Thank you for everyone's suggestions on how to tame this "Anti-Trump Protester" into submitting to my political will.
ME BOSS, YOU CAR, now do what I say!!!!! |
#5
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Just remember : use WAVE TYP lock washers, not the split typ .
Alternators cause all manner of mischief . The proper torque is the main thing as the constant harmonic vibrations Diesel engines cause make things get loose all over the darn car, especially the engine and front body . Like the lower belt pulley ~ it loves to come loose from the crankshaft's nose, pretty much ruining your day as well as the crank .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
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What is a WAVE TYP washer and where can I purchase them?
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Wave or spring typ lock washers are used in all German vehicles ~ they're thinner and closed, no open overlapping edges .
Your local Hardware store will have them in the metric hardware drawers . IIRC (possible) you're looking for a 10MM size . I'd buy at least five each of 6, 8 and 10 MM sizes as they get lost occasionally and are easy to keep in your tool box or ashtray.... If you're a Junk Yard junkie like me, just look at the ground around VW's, Volvos, Mercedes and so on.... Keeping a stash of spare correct hardware is critical to trouble free motoring in older German vehicles .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#8
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Please keep any political comments in the politics forum.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#9
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I would NEVER use red loctite on any accessory bolts... blue, sure, not red or green...
If the alternator loosens, odds are good the bracket or mount is wallered out... or the alternator itself is... I have never had one self loosen that wasn't...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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VWNate1, thank you very much for the information; I"ll head over to the hardware store this weekend and buy the wave type lockwashers. BTW, the bracket came with the alternator and appears to be in good working condition. I believe I may not have tightened the one bolt down plus the vibration of the diesel shook things loose.
Due to complaints, I'm going to change the description to "Alternator throwing a hissy fit like a spoiled, self-entitled BRAT". That way it comes across more PC. See Urban Dictionary for multiple definitions of the term "hissy fit". http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=hissy%20fit Last edited by HuskyMan; 11-18-2016 at 11:11 AM. |
#11
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You're most welcome Sir ,
FWIW, I'm very picky about hardware so I prefer to use second hand OEM stuff since they just throw it out anyways . Plus, I'm a regular at several Junk Yards and $pend lots so they give me all the hardware I want .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#12
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Quote:
like I said.. I have used it on regular size nuts and bolts since 1975 with no problems. It only adds about FIVE Ft. Lbs of torque needed to loosen the nut.. one problem is that many nuts and bolts are not surgically clean.. in the old days they suggested NOT just clean.... but a PRIMER was provided for Locktite... most situations will be on normally nuts and bolts not specifically cleaned before progressing... so any locking liquid will be slightly less than its optimum hold.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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It appears the moderator(s) beat me to the punch.......my apologies to all the forum members and/or moderator(s) who were offended by my original subject line......
Husky, you are a BAD BABY BAD BAD BAD BABY!!!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNLpPbmB8go |
#14
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Quote:
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
#15
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Quote:
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
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