What to do, what to do... Sons 124 spun a bearing - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

muleears · #1 12-08-2016, 11:30 AM

My sons 1992 124 (2.5L turbo) spun a bearing at 265K on Monday. Don't know why, it was full of oil. I suspect a clogged screen or oil pump failure. Anyway it's a shame because the car is in great shape otherwise. Would he be better off parting out what's left or trying to find another 124 and keep this one for parts? He is a diesel fan and definitely wants another (this one is his third).

Unfortunately Dad (me) is tapped out due to his Bluetec needing the dreaded oil cooler leak fixed... $$$

I have found a '95 124 and a '98 210 (diesels). I had a 210 and really liked it. IIRC the '95 has the same engine as the '98 just not turbocharged. Correct?

Any relevant advice is appreciated. I'm leaning toward the '98 W210 if we can get a good price and probably scrapping the old one after we pull off what we can. What say you all?

Diseasel300 · #2 12-08-2016, 12:29 PM

I'd say it comes down to what kind of condition the rest of the car is in. How is the interior? Transmission? Body? Rust issues? Suspension? Driveline?

If the rest of the car aside from engine is immaculate, it's worth finding a parts car and doing an engine transplant. If there's other issues with the car, it's probably best to part it out and scrap what's left, go buy something else.

Dan Stokes · #3 12-08-2016, 12:39 PM

Do you guys do any of your own work? This sounds like a simple engine swap to me - find a donor at Pick n Pull or similar and do the deed. If you're going to pay a shop to do it, it might not make cents, as in dollars and cents. Sounds like a nice car with a bad engine so if it were mine I'd pull it in my shop and do it. And maybe this is a chance for the boy to learn some hand skills - always a good idea.

And how do you know it "spun a bearing?" If you (or someone) pulled the pan down that might be a perfect diagnosis but I've often seen these sorts of repairs to be a simpler fix than thought. The knocking or tapping or whatever turns out to be less fatal.

Dan

muleears · #4 12-08-2016, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

I'd say it comes down to what kind of condition the rest of the car is in. How is the interior? Transmission? Body? Rust issues? Suspension? Driveline?

If the rest of the car aside from engine is immaculate, it's worth finding a parts car and doing an engine transplant. If there's other issues with the car, it's probably best to part it out and scrap what's left, go buy something else.

The rest of the car is above average, I wouldnt say immaculate though. No rust, its a southern car, interior is good, cracked windshield, one bad window, passenger seat doesn't function properly, suspension/tires/steering all good. We paid $2200 for the car which I think was top dollar. But the AC, sunroof and all ventilation worked properly, it drove well and looked good, no fading or dents.

As far as a transplant, I have a large garage but not the skill to do the job. Time is an issue too, he is just graduating from College and needs to find a job (NOW). I could help someone do the job, I have tools and some mechanical skill, but no hoist or trans jack and the like.

Thank you gentlemen for your suggestions, they are appreciated.

barry12345 · #5 12-08-2016, 02:24 PM

Agreed cheapest is to try to locate a good engine and swap it yourselves. As with most older cars farming the job out reflects in too much cost. Of course after verification that the fault is what you suspect.

If you are not competent to evaluate any used engine you find. Get someone that is to help. It is an article of trust to buy a used engine already removed.

It sounds like you may live in a reasonable area to find one. Where I live it would not happen. So I would remove and knock down the engine to see if a reasonable repair cost for a lighter rebuild might be possible.

If the oil was changed regularily the cross hatching on the cylinder bores may still be present over their full length. You get into real money if the pistons and bores are worn though. If the engine burnt almost no oil between changes would be a good sign as well.

muleears · #6 12-08-2016, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345

Agreed cheapest is to try to locate a good engine and swap it yourselves. As with most older cars farming the job out reflects in too much cost. Of course after verification that the fault is what you suspect.

If you are not competent to evaluate any used engine you find. Get someone that is to help. It is an article of trust to buy a used engine already removed.

It sounds like you may live in a reasonable area to find one. Where I live it would not happen. So I would remove and knock down the engine to see if a reasonable repair cost for a lighter rebuild might be possible.

If the oil was changed regularily the cross hatching on the cylinder bores may still be present over their full length. You get into real money if the pistons and bores are worn though. If the engine burnt almost no oil between changes would be a good sign as well.

My son was driving to school and noticed the car begin to run rough, he then also noticed the oil pressure gauge at ZERO. He knew enough to immediately shut down the engine but when I got there (20 min. later) it wouldn't even do a complete revolution when attempting to start. Will do a partial turn then it screeches, then the starter disengages and just spins. Will not turn over (crank) a complete revolution. Battery and starter were both strong.

BillGrissom · #7 12-08-2016, 02:58 PM

I wouldn't jump to conclusions with just those diagnostics. Can you rotate the crankshaft by hand? On my 85 that is easy w/ a wrench on the p.s. pump pulley. Have you pulled the oil pan and inspected? I bought a USB "endoscope" camera for $17 on ebay, which is great for such inspections.

72junky · #8 12-08-2016, 03:32 PM

IF it is the engine. there is a parts car for sale by Hogweed in the cars for sale section. has a couple of them to choose from. Just a thought. He is PA. Good luck.

ah-kay · #9 12-08-2016, 03:33 PM

If the oil pressure is zero. The engine is done for. something is binding it, possibly the rod bearings. You can do a visual by removing the side sump and take a look. Or drain the oil to see any metal shavings. I have rehab an engine like this by removing the head and the oil pan and push the pistons out. Check the crank to see whether it has been scored by the bearings. You may be lucky if the engine was shut down quick enough.

funola · #10 12-08-2016, 03:34 PM

How did you come up with a spun bearing? I know someone with a TDI where the engine stalled while on the highway and wouldn't restart (engine will not crank) and he thought the engine seized. A mechanic friend of his drove 1000 miles to tow it to his shop. He found a frozen alternator which prevented the starter from turning the engine. At least slacken all the belts and see if you can turn the crankshaft with a ratchet and see if any of the accessories are frozen.

muleears · #11 12-08-2016, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

How did you come up with a spun bearing? I know someone with a TDI where the engine stalled while on the highway and wouldn't restart (engine will not crank) and he thought the engine seized. A mechanic friend of his drove 1000 miles to tow it to his shop. He found a frozen alternator which prevented the starter from turning the engine. At least slacken all the belts and see if you can turn the crankshaft with a ratchet and see if any of the accessories are frozen.

My son-in-law has a diesel mechanic at work, his diagnosis as the probable problem.

I'll take the serpentine off and see what will and will not turn and report back. May be a day or so before I can get that done though.

shertex · #12 12-08-2016, 04:06 PM

Interestingly, my son was driving a 92 300D and now drives a 98 E300. Both great cars. A 98 or 99 is tough to beat. You can find them in nice condition in the $3000 range. Susceptibility to rust is the only real downside. Find a Southern car if you can.

PS I think you may be the one I plagiarized with the '61 very tolerant wife line. They're great, aren't they?

Diseasel300 · #13 12-08-2016, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muleears

Will do a partial turn then it screeches, then the starter disengages and just spins.

The starter shouldn't be disengaging unless you're letting off the key, even then it shouldn't continue to spin since the ignition lock has an interlock to keep you from "restarting" without going back to the "off" position