Okay, so we don't know if the transmission/clutch is actually engaging fully?

Don't run the answers together, I'm easily confused.

Car running, wheels on ground, clutch depressed, 1st gear engaged, clutch released (as best you can), does the car move forward?

Same scenario but reverse gear engaged does the car move backward?


Had an X6 Scrambler and a GT380. Rode a GS1000 for a few years before my brain outgrew my testicles.

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Yes, so, engine running, gears will engage, and then stay engaged as clutch will lose all pressure and stay on floor. Works the same for any gear.

Another new fun fact, just replaced the master clutch cyl, it won't back bleed. My back bleed is the pressure bleed you would use on a master cyl, but without the cap, use a reducer and hose for the bleed nipple and clamp that on.

Usually that pushes from the bottom just great, after new clutch M/C, even pressurizing to 20, it won't move any fluid up. Ditto for a oil can (same principle, but I had to try).

Putting the M/C cap back on the pressure bleeder, and bleeding top down, works fine, but full of air and no good for driving of course.

Nothing seems to work as it should

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I have not been able to follow all your descriptions as you seem to be using some terminology I am not familiar with. It seems to me that you are on the right track with replacing the clutch master cylinder though.

Bleeding a clutch master though is always a triple biotch.

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S:

The bottom-up no-bleed problem is most likely caused by the master cyl. pushrod eccentric adjusted so that the M/C piston is being held down past the inlet port. Back off the eccentric so that there is clearance between the pushrod and the piston.

Ah okay, that will be for another day, I'm finally frustrated with her .

That bolt to adjust the eccentric is easy to get to but seeing the eccentric is another story . I suppose it'd just be easiest to pull it down and change the position and then pop it back in.

Mike D. I had several GT380s in my youth and would love to find one again. The 550 is fun but very overweight for it's powerplant (and suspension, braking). I upgraded mine to twin front calipers and drilled rotors, helps quite a bit in braking, but I'd still rather have the 380. The hustler on the other hand is a quick and light little thing, love taking it from the wife and giving it a thrashing.

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Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

S:

The bolt in the center of the eccentric is the lock; slacken that bolt, and then the hex of the eccentric can be turned with fingers. Turn until there is free play felt at the pedal pad. For bleeding purposes, more slack at the pedal is better. Once the bleeding is accomplished, the free play can be set to about 1/8-1/4" at the pad.

Eureka!!! Despite all the very weird symptoms.

1. Adjusting eccentric fixed bleeding problem.
2. Replacing clutch master fixed clutch problem. Master wasn't leaking, no fluid was being lost, my best guess is that it was leaking back to reservoir. At fully depressed, there was no leak past, as soon as it went to 'partially lifted' for creeping out of first or reverse, it was leaking back to reservoir. I don't know if that theory is physically possible, just don't know anything else to explain it.

Thank you to everyone that posted.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

Glad it's fixed but that doesn't make sense. Any evidence of leakage out the back of the pushrod for the master?

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I just unbolted and looked, there is slight wetness but honestly I don't know if that is m/c leakage or all the fluid that came out of m/c during back bleed. I know I never had to add fluid during the issue as it never got below rim of brake m/c res.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

Despite opinion to the contrary, the above scenario as posited by Smoker does make perfect sense. The same thing happens in brake master cylinders also. When the bore of the cylinder, be it brake or clutch, becomes worn or corroded in the area of greatest use, or when a primary/pressure cup becomes worn, fluid will bypass the cup when under pressure, and return to the reservoir via the transfer/fill port. Fluid will not pass the second cup, and therefore will not appear at the pushrod.

Huzzah! Glad to hear you resolved the problem without major expense.

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― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now