I found that the 300D flywheel is NLA but the 300GD one is still available. IIRC, the 300GD is 33lbs vs 38lbs. I can get a used 300GD flywheel for about $500 or a new one for about $800, I have had no luck finding a 300D one except for one that is on eBay for $1200! Any help here would be appreciated, especially if you have one or the other to sell. It's going into a 300D for my dad, he wants the manual and we have a rebuilt 4 speed out of his 240D to use.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

Howdy,

My .02 cents worth. -- Hang tight. One will pop up. They generally cost around $200 to $300 used off the forums. If you go with the lighter one from a 240D manual, around 20-ish pounds, it might work if well balanced, e.g., dynamically balanced.

Found the 38# one for $400 shipped from Germany, trying that option first

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

I'm not the only one running the 240D flywheel with no issues. Mark the relationship of the crankshaft to the current flywheel and then have it checked for balance. Then the balance shop can match the imbalance of the 240D flywheel to the original one from the engine. As nearly as I've been able to gather, most OM617's are neutral balanced but a few are not so it's worth having the check done. Reinstall the new flywheel with your new alignment mark lined up to the make you made on the crankshaft. BTW - you'll need to go thru the balance process even if you get a new flywheel.

Anyhow, those of us who have done the 240D flywheel have found it satisfactory. I suppose it may be a tad less smooth than the heavier one but it certainly is not objectionable. I have about $250 in the trans and flywheel and the shifter.

If you have a OM616/617 flywheel turned make sure that the machinist knows his/her business. The pressure plate lip must be turned as much as the friction surface or the clutch will NOT work as designed it won't engage fully if at all.

Dan

I have a complete manual conversion from a Euro 300d. I might be interested in selling the whole shooting match. Clutch, pressure plate, 38# flywheel, driveshaft, transmission, pedals, trans mount, master cylinder.

PM'd

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

I have located the driveshaft, trans mount, trans, flywheel, pressure plate, pedals. I have a nice clutch disk somewhere, assuming I can find it. Since this came from a euro 300D, I assume you wouldn't have to cut the shaft to get it to work.

I'm using the 240 flywheel in my 300cd conversion to 4 speed.


Its been about 2-3 years and I have had no issues. Ill have to look at my notes on what I did to balance it. I believe I couldn't find a shop to balance it

I'm running a lightened "240D" flywheel - drives fine.
I do have 3 of the flywheels you want sitting in my garage though

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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD