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  #31  
Old 02-04-2017, 07:36 PM
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After reading this thread I realized the GP light in my 87 was only staying on for 2-3 sec no matter how cold it got. I tested the relay with the purple wire pulled and it stayed on for 38 seconds. I swapped a spare 87 relay and sure enough the light was on much longer. After taking the bad relay apart I found a couple of bad capacitors. I'll replace those, clean the contact on the relay and report back. Its good to have a spare.

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  #32  
Old 02-17-2019, 02:32 PM
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Specifications of 3 capacitors?

First, this post-thread is closely related to this thread:
-35 cold start in Toronto - 1985 Mercedes 300D original engine

Second, this concerns my 1985 300CDT - W123 OM617.952 (California).

Third, I'm looking for help identifying the technical specifications for the 3 capacitors that are situated on the glow plug relay's circuit board.

From the outside of the glow plug relay unit's housing:
001-545-98-32
89 91 80
12V/5-Zyl.

I have extracted the unit and attached are three pictures.

I've used as strong a light and magnifying glass as I have to read the details on the capacitors but as I've notated on picture #1, I am having difficulty reading the details and deciphering them.

If anyone is able to help clarify the details of the capacitors, that would be great. Otherwise, baring not enough information about the capacitors, I'll reassemble the unit.

Thanks for any help with this.
Attached Thumbnails
Glow Plug Relay Troubleshooting...-1.jpg   Glow Plug Relay Troubleshooting...-2.jpg   Glow Plug Relay Troubleshooting...-3.jpg  
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  #33  
Old 02-17-2019, 06:41 PM
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The difficulty is there were different versions with different values used. Also, it appears someone has been inside this unit previously due to the green laquer. Perhaps removal of the laquer may help with identification. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will clean it easily but VENTILATION is paramount.

There is a thread about repair of the Glow Plug Relay. It should be easily found with a search. I'm currently on a tablet and unable to use that feature. If you would like, I'll see if I can locate it later using my laptop.
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  #34  
Old 02-18-2019, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogguy View Post
First, this post-thread is closely related to this thread:
-35 cold start in Toronto - 1985 Mercedes 300D original engine

Second, this concerns my 1985 300CDT - W123 OM617.952 (California).

Third, I'm looking for help identifying the technical specifications for the 3 capacitors that are situated on the glow plug relay's circuit board.

From the outside of the glow plug relay unit's housing:
001-545-98-32
89 91 80
12V/5-Zyl.

I have extracted the unit and attached are three pictures.

I've used as strong a light and magnifying glass as I have to read the details on the capacitors but as I've notated on picture #1, I am having difficulty reading the details and deciphering them.

If anyone is able to help clarify the details of the capacitors, that would be great. Otherwise, baring not enough information about the capacitors, I'll reassemble the unit.

Thanks for any help with this.
All three are electrolytic capacitors, which are used for bypass filtering, almost never for timing purposes. ELectrolytics, unlike other types of capacitors go bad with time, just replace them if they're old. One of them is identified as 47 uf, which is its capacitance value. Just replace it with any electrolytic cap that's around 47 uf rated 24 V or above and you will be fine. The numbers on the other 2 does not look like capacitance values. Take closeup pics of the 2 caps and the markings, maybe I can tell.

A free source of electrolytic caps are old cell phone car chargers, LCD TV's etc
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  #35  
Old 02-18-2019, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
All three are electrolytic capacitors, which are used for bypass filtering, almost never for timing purposes. ELectrolytics, unlike other types of capacitors go bad with time, just replace them if they're old. One of them is identified as 47 uf, which is its capacitance value. Just replace it with any electrolytic cap that's around 47 uf rated 24 V or above and you will be fine. The numbers on the other 2 does not look like capacitance values. Take closeup pics of the 2 caps and the markings, maybe I can tell.

A free source of electrolytic caps are old cell phone car chargers, LCD TV's etc
I've taken a bunch of pictures.
Here's the link to them:
https://imgur.com/a/MM3VAjw

> The "47" was easy to clearly photograph.
> The large blue one with the green lacquer was tougher.
> The really small black one on the corner next to the Texas Instruments chip is next to impossible to get clearly.

Anyway, best I could do for the moment.

Thanks again-
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  #36  
Old 02-18-2019, 10:30 PM
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With the values missing off the capacitors, you're kind of SOL unless someone else has an identical relay with legible numbers you can copy from.
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  #37  
Old 02-19-2019, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogguy View Post
I've taken a bunch of pictures.
Here's the link to them:
https://imgur.com/a/MM3VAjw

> The "47" was easy to clearly photograph.
> The large blue one with the green lacquer was tougher.
> The really small black one on the corner next to the Texas Instruments chip is next to impossible to get clearly.

Anyway, best I could do for the moment.

Thanks again-
If the unit is working fine, leave it alone. If it is not, then try replacing the electrolytics and see if it helps. The big one with rubbed off numbers is about the same size as the 47 uf, so replace it with a 47 uf. The small one with rubbed off numbers, replace it with a 10 uf. The exact capacitance values for those 3 electrolytics are not critical IMO, as I said earlier, they are not for timing, i.e. control the duration of glow on/ off times.
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  #38  
Old 02-19-2019, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
If the unit is working fine, leave it alone. If it is not, then try replacing the electrolytics and see if it helps. The big one with rubbed off numbers is about the same size as the 47 uf, so replace it with a 47 uf. The small one with rubbed off numbers, replace it with a 10 uf. The exact capacitance values for those 3 electrolytics are not critical IMO, as I said earlier, they are not for timing, i.e. control the duration of glow on/ off times.

Beautiful.
Sincere thanks for sharing your knowledge. Very helpful and new learning for me.

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