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  #1  
Old 01-24-2017, 09:42 AM
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1981 300SD How hard to remove water pump?

On my 300SD, how involved is it to remove and take a look at the water pump?

Remove shroud, radiator, all belts??? More?

Something is making a funny noise.

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Old 01-24-2017, 10:53 AM
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Can you use a stethoscope or a long screwdriver to narrow down what the "something" is, while running? Usually it will look just fine, even when it's the doohickey causing the problem. You may not be able to feel the issue rotating it slowly by hand.

You can also remove belts and run the engine for a short period of time and listen for the sound. Sound stops when water pump belt(s) removed? Yeah something driven by that belt is the issue.
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:56 AM
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Agree. Thanks. Just wondering if I end up removing it, how much teardown is involved to get to it.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
On my 300SD, how involved is it to remove and take a look at the water pump?

Remove shroud, radiator, all belts??? More?

Something is making a funny noise.
From what I remember you do not need to remove all belts, WP only, maybe alternator also but not AC. I did break the neck on the radiator pulling hose or replacing it from what I remember, so be careful there if R+R WP is needed. Other than that a two hour job on WP, or there about.
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Old 01-24-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sloride View Post
From what I remember you do not need to remove all belts, WP only, maybe alternator also but not AC. I did break the neck on the radiator pulling hose or replacing it from what I remember, so be careful there if R+R WP is needed. Other than that a two hour job on WP, or there about.

It is good to slide a small think screw driver or even get a new hose after cutting the old one. I also put anti-seize on the necks of these to prevent sticking.


Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2017, 01:02 PM
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most importantly to remove the fan clutch from the pulley, buy a spare 10mm box wrench and grind it narrow, like maybe 1/2 original height.

i have done two or three WP without this and the last one I did, i just made the damn wrench and it was 1/2 the time. mandatory. other than that i never remove the rad and it goes pretty quick.
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  #7  
Old 01-24-2017, 01:18 PM
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Don't strip or break the bolts that hold the pump on. I'm remembering an allen head. Certainly spray them, let sit and be sure to clean the heads and tap the socket in.

It may be the vacuum pump that I'm thinking of but dealing with rusty bolts from water passages is never pleasant.
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Old 01-24-2017, 01:24 PM
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Thanks guys. Good info. Interesting; as I get older I do not seem to relish getting under the hood like in the old days.

Then when I do, I find the apprehension was worse than the actual task. Generally speaking. They seem to be fairly even when working on the Land Rover.
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  #9  
Old 01-24-2017, 02:01 PM
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Use anti-seize on the bolts that mount the water pump to the aluminum housing.
The ends of the bolts are bathed in hot coolant and they can get seized from corrosion.

Also it is a good time to to consider replacing the short hose below the thermostat housing (upper left corner of photo), since the coolant will be drained.
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:22 PM
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X3 on the seized and or broken bolts by the previous owner.

I had one Water Pump Bolt broken by the previous owner. Since I was only one I did no bother to attempt to remove it.

Some unlucky people have had water pump bolts break and then removed the Aluminum part behind the water pump only to have bolts break off of that. Any bolt in the parts of the coolant system may break when removing them.

The area under the hoses also can be deeply pitted. I ground the pits on mine down to the bare metal and filled with JB Weld Epoxy (not the fast curing version) and then taped over it so it would conform to the contour of the part.
When you remove the tape you may find voids that need to be filled with epoxy and the curing starts again.

After that you can file and sand it to the proper shape.
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  #11  
Old 01-24-2017, 04:23 PM
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Makes sense. Thanks.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2017, 04:26 PM
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Yes, as you get older one of Newton's laws applies. A body at rest tends to remain at rest unless acted on by an outside force (like your Wife asking when the Car is going to be fixed).

Once your momentum is going it is not so bad and once you bugger up the job there is no choice but to continue (a matter of pride/ego) till it is fixed.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
On my 300SD, how involved is it to remove and take a look at the water pump?

Remove shroud, radiator, all belts??? More?

Something is making a funny noise.
Easy peasy......

Remove fan too.

SD water pump part was like $18.00 @ the MB dealer, with exchange.
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2017, 11:53 PM
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If you get broken bolts in the housing, I have a fixture for drilling the broken bolts out. That is if you don't have a replacement housing.....Rich
Water pump housing broken bolt repair fixture
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  #15  
Old 01-25-2017, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
If you get broken bolts in the housing, I have a fixture for drilling the broken bolts out. That is if you don't have a replacement housing.....Rich
Water pump housing broken bolt repair fixture
2 thumbs up. I put the link in my notes.

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