Referenced the w124 Tech Article on this one. Old shoes off, new shoes on, almost. The right shoe bottom by the extender did not snug up against the plate/tab when I connected the spring. The left shoe did. The extender is a bear to move around between the hub flange and plate/tab. There is no play in the cable so very little room to move the extender around. New shoes match the old shoes. I have already removed both sides(dumb) so nothing to compare with. The attached thumb is after I removed the new shoes. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong or tips?

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So I have pretty much figured out the problem is the "extender" . It attaches to the end of the parking brake cable inside the drum. It looks like the pin going through the extender and cable end is frozen. Very frozen. Both sides. My usually reliable Mercedes mech says it should move like the other pin (see image above). He also said "forget your parking brake, you have an automatic transmission". Anyhow, I cannot find the extender any where on the internet. Maybe the dealer can help ($$$). Does anyone have working parking brakes? Has anyone worked on/replaced the extender?
Later: Just talked with the parts man here at Pelican. He found the extenders. Ordered 2 + pins. By the way, Mercedes calls them "shackles". Googled "Mercedes Parking Brake Shackles" and there they were.

both my cars have working parking brakes and I use them anytime I park on a slope or incline.

That little extender is what spreads the shoes apart to make them work. Both of my cars had that issue of them being dirty, use some penetrating oil to free them up enough for removal from the cable, then wirebrush them clean and shiny, apply generous amounts of drum brake lube (generic brake lube) to this part and make sure it works smooth. Remove the star wheel adjuster and clean it out too, lube that up also so you can adjust it easily once the rotor is back on.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Best way to keep your parking brake from seizing up is to use it every time you park.

I use mine every time I park the car. Hill or flat or even in the garage.

Yes your A/T park pawl will hold back the car but you are putting undue stress on the engine and transmission mounts.

I always employ the following sequence on a slope:
- Transmission in N
- hold service brake with right foot
- apply parking brake with left foot (or right hand)
- release service brake carefully, ensure the vehicle is stable
- transmission in P

When taking off I don't release the parking brake until I am in drive and my foot still on the service brake.

I never have a problem with the park pawl jamming or being difficult to release when following this method. Or getting the surprise lurch when letting off the brake.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

The rivet that holds it to the cable will come right out if you soak it in penetrating oil. Once you have the part on the bench, it's easy to clean it up and grease it. I've never had to replace one. You will want to make sure the cable itself hasn't seized. If it has, the only right way to fix it is to replace it. Also check that the compensator (the lever under the car that all the cables attach to) has a full range of motion. Again, the rust usually cleans up, but they do tend to petrify.