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  #16  
Old 02-11-2017, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 34
Listening to the advice of others here, I started the center bolt, then put the one furthest from the engine, then the one closest to the engine. Once all 3 were started I lowered the motor (i used my ratchet strap to center it better) then tightened the center bolt. Then I got the one furthest from the engine, finishing with the one closest to the engine (as it was the most difficult to get to). I fortunately had purchased a decent hex set for my car when I did a CV axle in the rear, that set happened to have a 1/4 drive 6mm bit. That allowed me to use my baby 1/4" ratchet.

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1985 Mercedes 300D turbo, w123, 722.3, 315K miles
1987 Mazda B2200, Dana 44, 283 v8, th350, np203
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  #17  
Old 02-11-2017, 06:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I was about to post a retraction on my notes because the manual really does say M12X40 for the center bolt??? Glad it really was M10.

When I did my mounts the first time I buggerd first couple of therads and needed to chase the threads which is why I put the M10 tap in my notes but is was so long ago I could not remember what I used.
Yessir. Mine was the M10 bolt. For S***s and giggles I looked at a M12 bolt, those things are huuuuge!
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1985 Mercedes 300D turbo, w123, 722.3, 315K miles
1987 Mazda B2200, Dana 44, 283 v8, th350, np203
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2017, 08:51 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Tip - before installing the big center bolt, coat the threads w/ anti-seize for easy removal next time. You can buy at any auto parts, since necessary on spark plugs into aluminum heads. I use anywhere aluminum and steel touch.

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