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  #16  
Old 02-16-2017, 05:17 PM
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I just bought the cheap store brand Dex/Merc. Any Dex II or better will work for flushing. I think if I didn't get as much fluid out as I did, the results might not have been as good. There was no converter drain plug, so I had to force it out with compressed air. In a few hundred miles, I will get out as much as I can again, and put in synthetic and the Shudder Fixx.......Rich

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  #17  
Old 02-16-2017, 06:24 PM
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That car should have a torque converter drain plug. I know my 05 E320 wagon does. I'd be reluctant to put any additives in it.

How long are you planning on running it on the cheap fluid?
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2017, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
That car should have a torque converter drain plug. I know my 05 E320 wagon does. I'd be reluctant to put any additives in it.

How long are you planning on running it on the cheap fluid?
As for the drain plug, Marc said some do, some don't.
I will be running the fluid for only a couple hundred more miles.
(See my last post)........Rich
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  #19  
Old 02-17-2017, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I just bought the cheap store brand Dex/Merc. Any Dex II or better will work for flushing. I think if I didn't get as much fluid out as I did, the results might not have been as good. There was no converter drain plug, so I had to force it out with compressed air. In a few hundred miles, I will get out as much as I can again, and put in synthetic and the Shudder Fixx.......Rich
I was reading how you need 12 - 14 quarts to properly flush out all the old fluid. Basically you drop the pan and filter, replace with new, refill with the "dip stick tool", disconnect the cooler far side line and start the vehicle until a few quarts come out, stop the vehicle, replace the fluid - do this again until the fluid comes out clear. Looks like you will have a bit of a head start.

I am surprised that your tcm has not logged a dtc for this. Have you checked? Do you have access to a xentry mbstar?
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kestreltom View Post
I was reading how you need 12 - 14 quarts to properly flush out all the old fluid. Basically you drop the pan and filter, replace with new, refill with the "dip stick tool", disconnect the cooler far side line and start the vehicle until a few quarts come out, stop the vehicle, replace the fluid - do this again until the fluid comes out clear. Looks like you will have a bit of a head start.

I am surprised that your tcm has not logged a dtc for this. Have you checked? Do you have access to a xentry mbstar?
I have the Icarsoft MB II. There are no trouble codes stored.
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  #21  
Old 02-17-2017, 03:12 PM
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Odd how MB went back and forth on whether or not to have a TC drain plug on the 722.6. With the W210, they eliminated it midyear in MY99. My 98 has it, as did the 99 I had, but it was one of the last ones. On the CDI, as has already been said, some have it and some don't. Haven't checked mine yet. Wish there was a way I could know by the VIN, but apparently not.
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  #22  
Old 02-17-2017, 07:14 PM
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Have a look at the files in post 3

Engine stalls when cold

And, . . note the lengths this shop went to in solving the problem. Anyone that still thinks that competent mechanics are stupid would be wrong.

Also read item 3 on part 1 , page 3

"3. Wayne had a tolerant, accommodating customer (which can be rare in this industry). "
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  #23  
Old 02-17-2017, 07:15 PM
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As for TC drain plugs, if the trans was ever rebuilt, the TC may have been swapped for an earlier unit.
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  #24  
Old 02-17-2017, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
As for TC drain plugs, if the trans was ever rebuilt, the TC may have been swapped for an earlier unit.
When looking for the plug, I saw a 211 part number on the TC. I believe the trans AND the fluid I drained out is/was original for the past 180K + miles.
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  #25  
Old 02-18-2017, 08:24 AM
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Do you still have the filter? Look for a molding mark that shows day , month , year of manufacture. These look like a clock dial.
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  #26  
Old 02-18-2017, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Do you still have the filter? Look for a molding mark that shows day , month , year of manufacture. These look like a clock dial.
I don't, but it was original equipment (three pointed star), as was the fluid (greenish color from the factory).
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  #27  
Old 02-20-2017, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I don't, but it was original equipment (three pointed star), as was the fluid (greenish color from the factory).
the greenish fluid is not a tint - its a fault of the original ATF which is red when new and loses its tint to greenish and then finally a motor oil amber.

sadly it doesnt tell anything about the quality of the ATF.
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  #28  
Old 02-24-2017, 10:49 PM
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Shudder is gone!

I got two gallons of Synthetic ATF today and drained out about 6.5 qts of fluid. It was dark redish-brown after being in there for only about 500 miles. I poured about 2 qts of fluid in, and then put the contents of the tube of "Shudder Fixx" in the bottle and shook it up a little. After getting everything back together and cleaned up for a test drive, the trans shifted perfectly with not even a hint of shudder! I am happy about that!
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  #29  
Old 02-28-2017, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
... After getting everything back together and cleaned up for a test drive, the trans shifted perfectly with not even a hint of shudder! I am happy about that!
Rollguy: Way to go! Glad you got that cleared up.
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  #30  
Old 03-01-2017, 07:55 PM
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134 ATF is whar I use

Quote:
Originally Posted by chronometers View Post
I bought a case of the 134 ATF made by Shell from an oil distributor locally in OH for around $70.
Get Shell 134 ATF here

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