Hey folks,
So I just replaced the clutch master cylinder yesterday. The replacement is easy, getting the damn bolts open with my human sized hands was torture. Took me about 2 hours total, maybe 20 minutes of actual work- the rest was drinking a bud and cursing and thinking about how to access the bolts.

I have not bled the system yet so I think for that reason my clutch is not engaging yet. I thought I read somewhere that when replacing the clutch master cylinder without replacing the slave cylinder, you don't need to bleed the system. But guess I misread that.

I'm having trouble getting to my slave cylinder since I don't have car jacks, so I was wondering if the method in is video alone would suffice? What do you guys think.
https://youtu.be/b28CahjQd48

I've also replaced my alternator voltage regulator and the fuel pre filter and I'm going to di a diesel purge tomorrow.

2: If you do a coolant flush you have to drain the block. It's right about the starter. Otherless you are just mixing good with bad.

3. Purge and that's it. No need for seafoam.

4. As long as the battery is holding good voltage you should be good. On another note, what kind of state still runs emissions on something as old as a 240?

__________________
'80 300SD - '83 240D - '00 E55 AMG - '02 G500

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it, or bleed it before attaching the slave cylinder line? If you did, no further bleeding may be necessary. If you didn't, you'll have to bleed the slave. You could try putting a hose on the slave bleeder screw, directling it into container and then crack the screw enough to let fluid slowly flow out as you replenish it at the reservoir before the line gets air in it. You may get the air out that way.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Nope I didn't think to bench bleed the master cylinder.
I've attached an image- is that the slave cylinder? What is the bleed screw on this, and how do I go about attaching a pipe to it. I got a 3/16" pipe, is that the right size?
Thanks for the guidance you guys. Would be lost without it.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Yes that's it. Looks to me as if there is something stuck on the end of the bleeder screw, unless that bleeder is of an unusual design. Usually you just push a hose over the slight knob on the end of the bleeder screw.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Yeah there was a cap on it. Now I just can't get the damn bleed but open. Having the wrong size spanner isn't helping, trying to open it with pliers. I have a 1/4 spanner and a 8mm spanner. Ones too small ones too big. Aaargh.

Be careful, it can strip or snap off. Put some PB blaster on it and get a proper sized box wrench on it.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Ok I think I managed to bleed the system. Plugged the salve to an oil can and pushed up brake fluid until the bubbles stopped. Going to let it sit for awhile and then try her out.

Agreed, use some penetrant and the right sized tool.
For future readers, a deep-well six point socket in the right size works very well to initially crack open the bleeders for the slave cylinder or the brake calipers.
Less chance of rounding the corners on the valve with a socket.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Please do yourself a favor and purchase a set of quality flare wrenches.

I went with Wright Tools since Craftsman no longer exists; best $100 ever spent. Even use them on bolts that are stuck and never have a stripped bleeder (will at least cost $50 for a replacement caliper and time) or bolt/nut.

Sorry didn't reply sooner. Opacity test is pretty strait forward. Without a turbocharger, bit less risk not past. Mean, when my turbocharger oil seals went out, went from 10 to 68, 20 is passing. So high, did the test three times to be sure not their machines. Think in reality, might have been able to avoid the purge if looked clean, but now got that variable removed.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.

Must have posted at the same point.

Good idea Alec! Then, can get on it more with a ratchet over the short length of a wrench.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.

Yes tried a socket wrench but mine was too shallow, got the right size spanner for the job . Finally managed to bleed the system. Took me two times bleeding. Drove like a dream yesterday but this morning the clutch didn't engage until I pumped the clutch a bit. I noticed that the brake fluid level in the reservoir went down too . So I suspect I have a leak somewhere. Where do I begin to check? Is it a bad bleeding job or some thing else that maybe faulty?

Oh and I passed the emission test no problem. Did a purge before I went though.

So reading up on the issue it seems like I'm leaking from the weep hole so that makes my slave cylinder suspect. Anyway to confirm this? And is there a fix other than replacing the slave?

Time to rebuild or replace the slave cylinder .

The rubber dust cap on the bleeder screw is important .

Craftsman is still in business, i was there yesterday .

You need a 6 point 7MM box and wrench, my favorite for bleeding is a $5 Chinese one from Oreilly's Auto parts ~ nice and thin .

Keep at it, you're getting there bit by bit .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better