Although it can be done with the compressor in the car, it is not easy. It is best just to replace the entire compressor, whether it be R4 or Sanden.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

If you have PAG oil, definitely replace the filter/drier and flush all the oil, and don't leave it unpressurized any longer. PAG absorbs moisture to form acids. If mineral oil, less critical that you flush it, but I would still replace the filter/drier (fairly cheap) and all O-rings (HBNR kit when on-sale at HF). Search Hella's PAO 68 oil, which is better and works w/ all refrigerants. If your hoses look degraded, you can rebuild fairly easily - buy barrier hose and Oeticker stepless clamps on ebay, cut/peel old ferrules on fittings to re-use.

Sounds like you haven't found the leak source. I would replace the whole R-4 compressor & clutch, since a shaft leak sounds likely from your clutch failure, and you can buy for about the price of a clutch alone. Don't wait until Spring when prices rise. I have bought new ones for ~$70 on ebay. I used a Sanden compressor on my 1985 for a few years, using Rollguy's bracket, until the bracket cracked several places. I didn't notice any improvement and car still cools fine after I went back to a new R4. I use HC refrigerant (Duracool, not for Chicken Littles).

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Good ideas all. Thx.

Update - picked up the receiver-drier today at Pep Boys for $28. It is in the trunk. Picked up the new R4 compressor last week at Pep Boys for about $130 on sale. New belt at $17.

Plan - install compressor (hold off on drier), find a shop to flush and pressurize with nitrogen to find leaks. If no leak, install drier, fill with R12 mineral oil and R12. Not replacing the expansion valve which I am advised is under the dash and quite a job to switch out.

When my 240D had air, I used this stuff called "Maxi frig". Blew ice cold, it's a R12 replacement, and the can specifically calls to NOT vacuum down the system. I am also running it in my 1996 Honda and it blows extremely cold.

Just my 2¢

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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93

Thx. I already have four cans of R12 at $100. Like to keep everything original. Specs call for 48oz so that should be just right.

Be sure to negotiate this with the shop before doing any work on your end.

Also, any good shop is going to write a disclaimer that any parts that fail in the future are the sole responsibility of the car owner.

The only way to flush a system is to disconnect the evaporator , expansion valve, condenser , compressor and dryer then flush each item more or less individually. Hoses can be left attached to a condenser for example but each end must be removed from the compressor / dryer. Also, the expansion valve must be removed from the evaporator.

The dryer isn't much of a filter, sometimes an actual filter is added before the expansion valve to prevent debris from clogging the expansion valve.