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#16
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Extremely useful for diagnosing WHICH injector/cylinder is making the noise. |
#17
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I've seen videos of people taking apart the injection system and cleaning it. I assume it must be reasonable to follow up with taking apart and cleaning the injection system after I find out which one(s) are bad correct? |
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#19
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However, before you do anything else, run a can of Lubromoly Diesel Purge directly through the injection pump to see if that clears up the problem with the injector clacking. That will cost you about $12 at Advance or Auto Zone if you try to purchase locally, or $10 or less if you can wait for an on-line order to be delivered. I also agree that the lifters are making some noise, but I hear something else in there as well, maybe the vacuum pump or some other accessory like the serpentine belt tension device.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#20
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Please go slow, research, ask questions. MB diesel engines are VERY different, and if all your experience is with gasoline engines, you have MUCH to learn.
My approach to solving any problem is to go slow, learn about the engine and diagnose the issue by testing separate components or sections of the particular system that is suspect. When you want to do something to attempt a repair, start with things that are simple and cheap (in this case, fresh Mobil 1 synthetic oil, 0-w40 or 5w-40, and a diesel purge treatment) and then gradually progess to complex and expensive (replacing injectors, hydraulic lifters, overhauling the delivery valves). I'd also recommend that you either purchase a mechanics stethoscope or make one with a simple rubber tube (hold one end in your ear, direct the other end close to or one any component you want to listen to).
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#21
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96 E300d |
#22
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Run a can of Lubromoly Diesel Purge
X2 - Run a can of Lubromoly Diesel Purge directly through the injection pump to see if that clears up the problem with the injector clacking.
x2 on the "Go Slow" advice. Motor sounds fairly normal. No bottom end noise to my ear. That "hollow" noise is normal for the 603.961 x2 on running synthetic oil for a change cycle to clean things up internally i.e. oil journals, lifters, etc. Renew the rubber seal rings (2) on the oil filter shaft. A few bucks from the dealer. Before or after the diesel purge, pour half a quart of two stroke oil in the fuel tank, drive a few miles and re-evaluate.
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1986 300SDL 440,xxx |
#23
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Just checked the lifters, they're all solid.
However, the engine was cold because battery is dead, will a cold engine give a FALSE positive? I guess it's the fuel system, or maybe it's just the nature of engine. |
#24
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A cold engine will usually exacerbate the problems with lifters since they'll have leaked out their oil from sitting. If they were firm, you're probably ok. I will say that doing the "press test" on my lifters they all felt solid, but after cleaning them out with solvent and reinstalling, it's a night/day difference in the noise level. I'd say to change the oil with Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 Synthetic and drive the snot out of it. See if it helps.
Based on your video, you have a lot of injector "knock" going on as well. No idea how warm the engine was in the video, but these engines tend to be pretty noisy until they've been driven for 10-15 mins. Once they're good and hot, they tend to be fairly quiet (for a diesel). If you haven't done it already, do a Diesel Purge cleaning to try cleaning the crap out of the injection pump. Could be worth your time to consider injectors soon. Additionally your engine seems to have a lot of noise from the belt tensioner. Very common issue. Consider replacing the pulley, spring, and shock all at the same time. It'll get rid of that flapping clattery noise. |
#25
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I'll Clean lifters Diesel purge Oil change Address belt tensioner Also the engine was stone cold in the video, it was running for 1 min |
#26
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If it was that cold in the video, the knocking and nailing is to be expected on this era of diesels. If it goes away when it warms up, you can safely ignore it.
I'd try a synthetic oil change before pulling the lifters. The high detergent and lower viscosity is said to help dislodge varnish and crap in the lifters. My car had sat in a field for 10 years, nothing was going to budge that sticky mess other than a wash in some strong solvent. If you do wind up pulling and cleaning the lifters, make sure you keep them marked which position they went into. If you get them swapped around, you can wreck your camshaft. Definitely fix the belt tensioner. If the spring breaks or the bolt breaks off in the front of the engine, it makes a big mess. Parts to fix it are relatively cheap and available. Getting the belt slackened is NOT exactly straight forward. Use the tire tool and insert it in the plastic pivot piece that the spring and shock attach to. Loosen and remove the nut on the driver's side holding the plastic pivot piece in place. Take up tension with the tire tool and wiggle the bolt out towards the rear of the engine. Once it clears the plastic pivot piece, release tension and you can take the belt off. Installation is the reverse of removal. |
#27
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Ok here's an update.
I have the service manual for removing and installing the camshaft. And I have the manual for cam timing if necessary. I plan on removing and cleaning the lifters to see if it helps with the noise. I'm also going to do an oil change, diesel purge, and replace all fuel and oil filters. For parts cleaner I going with Naptha. 2nd choice would be MEK, and my last choice is Xylene. Once I'm done cleaning the lifts, and it's inside components, I'll spray it with brake cleaner to remove all residue. Lastly I'm getting a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint the problem and other possible previously unknown issues.
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#28
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From research Naptha is a great parts cleaner, but how does MEK compare with Xylene? I'm looking forward to cleaning them up today.
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#29
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Removing Cam Caution!
[QUOTE=Father Of Giants;3700867]Ok here's an update.
I have the service manual for removing and installing the camshaft. And I have the manual for cam timing if necessary. I plan on removing and cleaning the lifters to see if it helps with the noise. QUOTE] Important Re pulling the cam. The FSM cam tower bolt release sequence arrows are incorrect. Swap the light arrows for the dark arrows for the correct sequence. You'll see when you look at the cam (lobes) compressing on the valve springs.
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1986 300SDL 440,xxx |
#30
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Make sure you do the job outside. When you get the hydraulic part out of the tappets, the smell is truly horrible (wretch-inducing even). Remember to keep your tappets in order for which valve they were matched to. If you mix them up, prepare to buy new ones or risk ruining your camshaft. |
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