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#46
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X1. If the rust is on the top where the camshaft presses on it, and you can feel the rust spot with your fingernail, you probably should replace the lifter(s). I think used would be fine. Eventually the rusted spot may wear the cam surface.
After you have finished cleaning and put them all together, you may want to get some oil into them initially, but do not fully "inflate" them or they may be too high and hold the valve open. I had the problem, thought I had a sticking valve but it was the lifter that was over-inflated and it would not bleed down on its own. I had to remove and press the little piston to remove some oil, and then it was just fine.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#47
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Quote:
Fortunately, with the vinegar, the rust comes off with the rub of a finger. So i'm fine. Here are some pictures of the worst offender, lifter #4, none are as bad as this one. Will have after shots in a few hours
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#48
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So one of the lifters are rust free, problem is wd-40 leaves a nasty varnish.
I have three greases as alternatives, axle grease, lithium grease, and wheel bearing grease. Which will work best for storing? I'm leaning with axle grease.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. Last edited by Father Of Giants; 04-19-2017 at 06:41 PM. |
#49
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This is my opinion and you're welcome to disagree with it:
Throw those tappets in the trash. Don't get new ones or reinstall anything in that engine until you find the source of water and why those tappets are rusty. They should be bathed in oil and should never rust (even when stored) unless your oil is contaminated with coolant or water. If you have rust on the faces of the tappets like that you will erode the hard facing both on the cam lobes AND on the tappet face itself, eventually wrecking both. |
#50
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Quote:
When I initially pulled them, they where rust free. Now, they're rust free again. I might replace them all...
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#51
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And I lost the check valve spring for two lifters so I have to purchase at least two regardless.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#52
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Ok, that's a VERY different result from what was implied by your posts.
The tappets need to be bathed in an oil-based solvent (something like mineral spirits, naptha or kerosene) to get rid of any water-based stuff you used (yes vinegar counts as water-based). After cleaning with solvent, just dunk them in engine oil. Even used will be fine to protect them. Don't use grease. You'll just make a mess and you risk clogging up the orifices you just cleaned out. |
#53
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Ah, OK. After this and the pictures, I must reverse myself, sounds like a very light surface rust that is not really a concern.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#54
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I'm just getting brand new lifters, lost too many parts ****ing around with them too much.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#55
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So I ran into a couple of old posts regarding the rebuilding and re installation of hydraulic lifters. And a poster was kind enough to go through the procedure of installing the lifters in detail.
But I have a question for things marked in bold.... Quote:
(1.) To blow out the oil passages is to remove oil in that area so that you can place the new lifters in there? (2.)pumped the tensioner inside a cup of oil to prime it, installed it (2.) How exactly do you pump the tensioner inside a cup of oil? [I hooked up my mighty vac to the shut off valve and pumped it down], (3.)then cranked for a good minute in 20 second intervals. I got oil pressure up on the first 20 seconds of cranking. That got oil up to the head, filling the lifters, cam bearings, and timing chain tensioner. (3.) The last thing he mentions is about cranking the engine via the ignition switch while the stop lever is pumped down by the mighty-vac correct? If I am wrong, let me know. I was also reading a service manual regarding the OM603 and it talked about the procedures of removing the camshaft. My question with the first attachment..that is.... ..."Engine......Position on ingition TDC of No.1 Cylinder" What does this mean? I uninstalled the cam without taking note of that step, should I be worried? The page to reference this is in the attachments below. I also removed the cam without setting the time and "holding down" chain and sprocket together with a ziptie. The chain tensioner was also not removed. Can I simply set the time when I put the lifters and cam back inside the engine? Or do I still have to remove the chain tensioner and set the time and keep it in place with a ziptie...and then start re installation from there? And in order to set the time, I simply crank the main crankshaft bolt until the ticks from the camshaft bearing cap and chain tensioner sprocket line up like attachment below right? Forgive me for all of these questions, but I am very cautious about this re installation, as I have a deep suspicion that one wrong step can easily spell disaster for the engine. By the way, I really do appreciate the time and patience you guys have given me in this forum so far, it means a lot.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#56
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Okay so the car ran with no injector knock with new rotella t6 oil and new valve lifters while the fuel lines were routed inside of a can of diesel purge. But the injector knock came back when I ran it on base fuel. I'll crack the injectors and see which one(s) are bad. should I replace the entire set or just the bad apple(s) (could just be 1 or 2 injectors). I mean, the car does have 298k miles on it...and god knows how old those injectors are. First time I purged the injectors that diesel purge turned almost black with all the crap that was inside the injectors.
Let me know what you guys think.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. Last edited by Father Of Giants; 04-27-2017 at 07:36 AM. |
#57
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if you are planning on keeping this car just go ahead and do the whole set of new injectors. You will not regret it.
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
#58
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Quote:
Now, when replacing injectors, the new injectors have to be adjusted and balanced correct? Think it's multiple injectors, I cracked them and the nailing got quieter and more spaced out. Cracked multiple and it got even quieter and more spaced out. But it never went away completely. On diesel purge, it was so quiet, you could hear the cam and lifters doing their thing. They where going "Tish Tish Tish Tish Tish Tish Tish..." Beautiful sound.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#59
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See your Cam Timing thread for my previous reply. It can be eerie how quiet these engines can get on Diesel Purge. When mine was nailing, we thought it stalled when it finally pulled the DP through. Was quieter than the SL at idle, all you could hear was the faint "tick" of the delivery valves! And yes, it was NASTY, thick black sludge came out of the IP.
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#60
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Yes, the injector opening pressures should be set to fall within a 5 bar range to ensure a smooth idle. The factory spec allows a 10 bar range (for an individual injector) before the opening pressure is too low, so a rebuilt set from Bosch may or may not fall within that five bar range.
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