Well somehow the w123 bug has bit me. After purchasing my 82 240d and falling in love with how easy it was to make it a reliable daily I'm looking at an 85 300D Turbo Saturday morning.

Car is light metallic blue, has 200k miles, and "runs and drives well."

Only catch (so far) is that it was hit by something severely denting in the front driver side fender, and both doors.

The damage appears to be only surface deep and the seller claims nothing in the front end or structural was bent but obviously I can't be sure of that til I actually see it.

He's asking $1k. Is this a fair price or super high? I can swing by since its local and snap a pic of it to show the damage.

For reference I bought my "relatively" straight 240d with no rust but a lot of differed maintenance for $1,200.00

It is a 300D. Some auto parts list as 300DT, or 300TDT and such. All 1982-85 in U.S. were turbo. Some earlier 300D were also turbo. 300TD is a W123 station wagon. I don't think there were different trim levels. All sold in the U.S. have a sun-roof, I think. But, I think interiors had options - cloth or simulated leather.

Fenders, doors, and trunks can be changed fairly easily, though usually mandates a repaint. Behind the rear door hits is the "quarter-panel" which requires weld repair. If the door's frame isn't bent, likely the mating parts on the car are fine.

If a CA model, the 1985 300D varied quite a bit from federal models. Nothing difficult, and several are slight upgrades (later tranny, better highway gears). I would offer $500 tops for a car requiring a new fender and 2 doors. These aren't rare and desirable cars, just semi-affordable daily drivers.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

If the car has no rust at all, and you can drive it to make sure everything works (AC, transmission, no funny noises or vibrations, windows / sunroof, brakes) then the price may be a little high. Price out the cost of new fender and doors, and a paint job, and if they cost more than $1000, lower your offering price accordingly.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

In my mind it depends a lot if the car indicates the milage claimed is true and the general mechanical condition is good. You can get a couple of doors and a fender used reasonably enough still.


These cars with a true two hundred thousand mile total are getting less common now. .If the above conditions are met with only superficial damage and there is not substantial rust. Personally I do not find the price excessive. It sometimes takes quite a few years to displace rose colored glasses.


For example if the drivers seat side bolster is badly damaged usually I throw out what the odometer claims right away at around 200K. I always want some indicators to show me many things when looking at these older used cars. Otherwise there can be so much deffered work and accumulated milage on the chassis it will cost too much over buying a good example. This car may of may not be a good one.


If it is a good one you had better get moving fast or guys like myself will get there first. It takes time and money to find a good one usually.