So I'm going to look at a 1980 240d. It's an auto with working ac, manual windows and no sunroof. The motor was allegedly rebuilt 5k miles ago. I'm looking at paying $1900. I did like another 240d that had a manual but the interior was thrashed. Obviously if you can't take care of the interior the motor must be neglected. I'm also considering a 1983 300sd. The ac needs a refill and it has an auto tranny as well but has been rebuilt. One of the rear windows is having issues. Other than that the interior is very nice. I'm looking at a daily driver/ commuter car. I'm not trying to win any races but I want reliability and I'm very handy with a wrench. I have searched and read quite a bit. They seem dead even to me. I want to hear from people that own them so I can have a better educated decision. Thank you all in advance and I will post pictures the day I get whatever it ends up being. I'm in the pacific NW so no salt and hardly any rust here.

Post up the ads, someone may well have already taken a look at them and have an opinion.

Welcome to the forum.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

If it is reasonably priced and in pretty good shape, go for the SD. There is no comparison between the SD and the 240D. You are light years ahead. That said both are about the most reliable vehicles ever made.

Also window problem on the SD is likely the sliding jaw; very common and very easy to fix.

From a mechanic's standpoint the SD is a dream to work on; I have no experience with the 240D but would expect the same.

My '83 SD keeps up with traffic but could use more punch on short on-ramps. It loves the open road but the factory speakers can't keep up with the engine when on the left lane. I've only driven a 240D AT so I don't know what a MT is like. A 240D AT needs a special brand of patience.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

Welcome to the forum.
People can usually help more if they know what country you are in. If in the US, which state.
Some people have parts which they may want to get rid of, like whole interiors. Might change your buying ideas.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

Although it has been commented on a zillion times, the real distinguisher (at least for me) is rust. Rust is tough to tackle and once you fine some, you will probably find more ... Welcome aboard and good luck !

I would get 1 of each. People drive these cars because they want to. Even competently rebuilt transmissions can be had for not much money which may be more than the car cost - but so what? You'll have a car that you like driving.

The rear window at most will need the regulator lubed or replaced. Get the motor and regulator from any 126 body ant it will bolt in. Regulators are specific to the door. Motors are side specific but may be changed if you happen to have the correct part. There were motor and regulator changes which is why you need to get the entire unit.

The AC will take work but there is lots of info. I expect that a "simple refill" won't get it. It leaked for a reason. My mental calc says $600 in parts to convert from R12 with new, modern compressor. I used the SWAG method of estimation based on threads seen here.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

My 240D with 4 spd topped out around 90 on the level, about 45-55 when pointed uphill on the sustained 7% or so grade that blue hiways make when they go up, depending on if I wanted to wind it out in 3rd gear and whip it with a riding crop or not. 30 +/- mpg all the time. A 35 mile each way commute into the country running on grease was my sweet spot for this car. Salt was the end of the body on this car. At 65 hp, certain hiway on ramps required strategy, and sometimes strategy combined with balls of steel.

The 300SD will have at least twice the power, or twice the power and then some depending on the motor, airbag(s) ABS and belt tensioners may be included.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Great comments above all. The 240 is significantly simpler to maintain because it has less power stuff to take care of. That said a 240 on the highway is a bit tedious with a stick and downright lethal to the non wary on the highway with a slush box. The SD is a sweetheart on the highway and gets about the same economy as the 240 if driven the same speed due to its more slippery shape.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The manual 240, and when you're sick of going slow swap in a 617 or turbo the 616.

The AT 240 will be horribly slow, only buy it if you plan on swapping in a manual sooner than later.

Personally, I like manual climate control and manual windows. That's why I'd go for the 240.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Personally, I really like my 240d and key is keeping it where is gives 100% all the time. That makes tuning the vacuum to the auto tranny important, fuel filters important etc. not much room for any inefficiencies w/less hp. Like Greazzer said, no/few rust supports the money going in to redo the occasional mechanical stuff like suspension etc. Mine is as simple as the one you are looking at and that makes repairs easier, reliablility better, there is more room to turn a wrench or two under the hood.

Rust and the engine must be good. For rust, be ready to crawl underneath and lift up carpets. For engine, check blow-by at idle (youtube). Rebuilt engines are extremely expensive and some people ask >$700 for a used engine of unknown condition. For $1000 you could get a good and reliable 82-85 300D or SD. For $1900 it should be primo (nice paint and interior)

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Something else worth considering is what the terrain is like in your area. If you have a lot of hills or winding roads, you might want to consider a 300D or possibly a turbo model. In my area, there are so many hills and winding roads that a 240D will get you in trouble. I test drove a few before I swore them off as "dangerous" in this area. If you don't get rear-ended for doing 50 up a 80mph hill, the redneck in the jacked up Cummins that you held up for 15 miles will finish you off!

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Please note that the disparaging remarks were toward the redneck and not the Cummins which at least thru 2001 is beautiful.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.