These were the keys I received with my car when I bought it. Apparently the Previous PO (2x) kept breaking the keys and welded these fine specimens together.

The one on the right broke in the driver lock when the locks froze. The lock is still good and fully functioning, a little bent now but working.

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Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself"

I got the 84 300D in 2007 and bought key blanks (solid metal) on ebay that were brass and have been using them ever since with no issues.

They have even survived my Steering Colum Lock breaking internally.

But, note that I don't have a large mass of other keys hanging from the Ignition key.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Konradwax was the forum member that made the billet aluminum key heads. I bought two of them and they are fantastic. Unfortunately he had production and thus delivery problems and decided to end the project. They key heads themselves are billet with the Mercedes Star with Phillips head or Allen head screws holding the 2 pieces of the head together. It is correct that most aftermarket keys are made from plated brass and eventually the brass filings will drop into the tumbler causing the dreaded tumbler failure where the key will not turn and you have to drill out the lock pin on the ignition lock. I bought two new keys in succession from the MBZ Classic Center and within a week both key heads had broken off. The other problem that occurs with W 123 tumblers is when drivers have more than 2 keys on their key rings and the extra weight causes a problem with the tumbler. As a general preventatitive measure I always replace the tumbler and key with a new genuine MBZ part whenever I acquire another W123 car.

I was able to get all metal replacement keys locally. They are brass by ilco USA. Number for 85 300D is MB39 and for 72 107, MB15. No rubber/plastic to break. But they will just be spares.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

wow, this has gotten ridiculous! the weight of more than a couple keys on the ring is too much weight? that's pretty pathetic.

NZScott where do you find those blanks? i looked online and couldn't find anything other than ilco brass key blanks.

this is the 2nd plastic head i've broken in not very long at all.

it's really too bad konradwax isn't making steel heads anymore, i wish i could, i don't have experience or access to tools needed to make things like that.

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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc

I recently bought some the Ilco Key has X82 on it and also MB41 both and it fits into the locks on my 84 300D but I have not got them cut yet.

However, to confuse things my 84 300D came with an ilco X83 and also has a MB39 on it. That was the only key so I ordered some key blanks off of eBay and there was no companies name on the key just an MB41 on it.

The only difference I can see between the 2 keys is the X83-MB39 has a thinner edge where the notches are cut then the X82-MB41.

Also I only have the valet key.

MB41 MERCEDES BENZ Key Blank X82

I bought 10 each X82-MB41 from this place. The blanks were cheap like that but the shipping was almost as much as the cost of the blanks.
http://mysecuritypro.com/MercedesBenzMB41KeyBlanks.aspx

They are also sold on eBay and Amazon but the Amazon ones are rather expensive.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

People that have the original steel Mercedes keys have also had their Lock Tumblers get stuck. No one has specifically identified the brass keys as being the reason for the stuck tumbler even tough it makes some sense.

Also when I had the typical stuck Lock Cylinder issue but it turned out to be the Steering Colum lock broke inside.
At that time I removed the Lock Tumbler and threw it in my Harbor Freight Ultra Sonic Jewlery Cleaner with Purple Power and a Water mix. A clooud of tiny particles did come out but too small to identify brass or steeel. I did not think to try a magnet.

Years before I removed the Tumble due to the Steering Columl Lock issue I had removed the lock tumbler and hosed the inside of it out with WD-40 (I would not do this in the Winter where liquid could freeze) and worked the key in and out and rotated it and hosed some more and repeated.
Despite the recommentadions to use graphite I believe the graphite is not going to wash out any particles.

Finally while in a Locksmith's shope they guy was on the phone saying that lots of ignition lock issues (not just Mercedes) are caused by having a large wad of keys haning off of your Ignition key.

Also out of the 4 Key Blanks I originally bought off of eBay (one I did not get cut but can't find) it took 3 blank cut to get one working Key. I had it done at 2 hardware stores. The difficulty for them seemed to be because it is a double cut key.

The reason for the recent purchase of Key Blanks is because I bought a complet W123 set of Door Handles and more importanlty a Trunk Lock for about $80 on eBay and I need a spare for that. My Valet Key that came with the Car does not work on the Trunk Lock so I have always been at the mercy of the Vacuum System.
But not any more.

But that leaves me needing another Trunk Key.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

is it so much to ask to want a steel key with a steel head?

the original keys were steel, not brass, my brass key didn't last, so why would i want a brass key?

i'm trying to sign up for an account at
http://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/p-4256-silca-ym23-metal-head-blank-to-suit-mercedes.aspx

been about a day and no response yet...

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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc

If you want steel keys get them through an MB dealer. Cost a bundle, have to show your registration/title, wait two weeks.

I'll take my chances with brass. Every other car, house locks and all padlocks use brass.

Steel keys rust.

the plastic MB key head doesn't last, in case you didn't read original post

I have used brass keys on an everyday basis for several years with no problems whatsoever.

ok, my brass key lasted a few weeks before it wouldn't really turn. so, should i try a brass key again? if mine had lasted a few years i wouldn't be so bothered.

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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc

What the hell are you people doing to your keys?! I can't say I've ever broken one of the plastic keys and my SL has been rockin' a brass key since 1998 with 0 issues.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

i'm just using it as normal, maybe i use it more times per day, making more short trips in nyc per day than just morning commute and afternoon commute. i read that the original keys from the 80s had a stronger plastic head than the new oem replacements.

aldridge security replied and told me they are a trade only wholesale company. i'm finding out what the minimum quantity is. i would consider myself in the trade if i am buying a handfull to resell to others.

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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc

Maybe it depends on the car? With mine the problem is that the "shoulders" wear down such that the key goes in too far.

-Rog