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Old 04-15-2017, 05:57 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
Not At All Diesel or Mercedes Related But....

Thought you guys might find this interesting. My latest bit of welded up junk. This is a cut & paste from BangShift:

On to the current project. With all the cancer stuff (phone calls, forms, etc.) and the first trip to FL to get set up for protons I've had to work on this in fits and starts but here's the requested table as it goes in. I made it very stout (as always) and still swing out of the way to leave the back seat open for seating. The reason for the table, you're asking? ME has a small keyboard and she wants to be able to do her piano practice even while on the road. We can pull into a rest stop or wherever and she can flip down the table, set up the keyboard (easy to do) and play away. It might also get used for lunch or a computer keyboard stand though not often.

Some pics:

In the stowed position. The retained clevis (I guess you would call it) is to keep the top from rotating. The piece attached to the floor is just painted as it'll be covered with the carpet but everything else is powder coated and powder clear coated as well. As you can see, the top is not yet installed as I do the necessary finish (pics to follow).



The stops to keep the top from rotating past flat and 90* (stowed) position.



And with the stops touching. Taken a bit further back.



In the "in use" position. The pin is now holding it in this position.



Top of the top. I have one coat of grain filler on it in this shot, my first try with that. Oak has big pores that tend to show thru the clear finish so I decided to experiment. I wasn't able to find grain filler in town so I ordered it up from Rockler's.




And the back of the top. It'll show when the top is stowed so I need to finish it nicely, too. Finishing is NOT my strong suite so I'll see if this helps. This is a simple piece of 3/4" oak veneer plywood and the edge is simply biscuited on. I set the sides a tad high and use a flush trimming bit to level the sides to the top - otherwise I sand thru the veneer trying to level everything so I hit on this method which seems to work well.



So I haven't been doing NOTHING!

Dan

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Old 04-16-2017, 04:56 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,626
Not at all! Nice piece of engineering there Dan!

To achieve a nice finish on wood, sand lightly, easing the edges on the milled oak so they are friendly, then wipe clean with a tack rag or some naptha in a rag, then apply your finish. Repeat up to four or even five times, each coat will provide more durability and more shine.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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Old 04-16-2017, 11:59 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Not at all! Nice piece of engineering there Dan!

To achieve a nice finish on wood, sand lightly, easing the edges on the milled oak so they are friendly, then wipe clean with a tack rag or some naptha in a rag, then apply your finish. Repeat up to four or even five times, each coat will provide more durability and more shine.

That's what I've been doing (remember, I've painted many a car). What I've had "issues" with is the grain showing thru on oak, which has super big pores. The grain filler is supposed to tackle that so we'll see.

Dan

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