S124 wagon rear window seals - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

spock505 · #1 04-20-2017, 01:22 AM

Hi good people, just wanted to check on what folks use or don't use to ease rubber into frame?

Just ordered a pair of seals ($250

) so don't want to screw up the install.

Is washing up liquid or hand soap okay, or will that dry out the rubber over time?

Metal work (pics t/f) is thankfully in good shape, at least on the side removed, going for a dry fit or better to use compound?

I ordered a tube just in case but would prefer to do without, old seals are caked in the sticky goo.

Thanks.

spock505 · #2 04-21-2017, 12:09 AM

Okay, removed glass yesterday in pouring rain (sunny when started) which came out easily, ally strip also not a problem.

Very pleased to see little rust along bottom edge as one or two threads on this have real horror stories of hidden tin worm.

Very slight rusting at either end which appears to be the weak spot where metal is not uniform and flat.

This is the front edge, it appears water runs down both the back and front sides of the glass which then collects in the bottom lip eventually overflowing at each corner end.

Rear weld join, very ..err wobbly..

gatorblue92 · #3 04-22-2017, 08:07 AM

Looks good. I know I am going to have a "fun" time whenever I do mine since I have a bit of rust on one side. Thankfully I have access to a parts car with what appears to be good window tracks.

spock505 · #4 04-22-2017, 02:19 PM

Had a chat with Mercedes parts on Friday, these guys are very helpful -

There is a bedding compound recommended by MB but this maybe a later addition if the problem surfaced after some years, I say this as the main EPC database didn't have the requisite information at first glance. Should have more info next week when seals arrive.

My thoughts are this is a design flaw, no way would the seal make a join at the rear corner as it 'dog legs' before meeting the down strut, unless it was filled previously but dropped out.

If members have 124 wagons it maybe an idea to check your situation which can easily be corrected, however if the mastic has been used on the seals you may need to replace.

spock505 · #5 04-24-2017, 07:14 AM

Few more pics of the rear weld issue, plan is to fill with plastic flexible filler then smooth off to surround level.

As you can see from the photos there's no way even a new seal would fill this void, front not as bad but it only takes a gentle trickle over time to turn screws and fittings rusty inside.

spock505 · #6 04-25-2017, 07:45 AM

Two liberal treatments of Jenolite working into seam weld, followed by one coat of Hammerite closing off seam altogether.

Need to figure which is the best option, polyurethane bead to seal edges or go with plastic filler to level off.

spock505 · #7 04-28-2017, 01:12 PM

Hi folks,

Seals arrived today from MB along with some heater control bulbs, just to finish things off.

Couple of observations for anyone considering this job which I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere, firstly whether or not to re-use old seals?

Mine were caked in sticky mastic which I thought was added after, some of it certainly was but the glass bead is preloaded with bedding in compound from the factory - when removing old glass some of this comes away, needing much cleaning to remove, for this reason I would recommend obtaining MB seals otherwise you may not get a good seal.

The new seals are a lot more pliable which looking at the critical sealing faces is important unless you want to reseal using mastic or bedding compound.

The glass is in the seal but still unsure what to do about the 'dog leg' at the end, I think it will seal okay due to the pliability of new rubber but not 100% certain - any thoughts?

spock505 · #8 04-29-2017, 07:52 AM

Okay, this morning going out to start the job removed plastic sheet which revealed water almost level with lip of window.

I think this is why you see so many bad tin worm examples where whole panels have to be let in to repair damage, in essence water predominately runs down back pillar through bottom corner gap and into lower channel. this then collects over whelming the seal. What makes it worse is this channel probably never empties, every little bump you go over gives the metal another dousing of water.

Water collecting at front of channel.

Old seal cut in section to show rear gap, this would probably lessen with glass and insert

This is what you are up against to create a good seal

How it should look on flat trim with four points of sealing/contact.

spock505 · #9 05-01-2017, 10:06 AM

Window in, used car wax to clean and protect inside wheel well.

..and finally the hose test..PASS!

spock505 · #10 05-08-2017, 10:16 AM

This suggestion might not be met with universal applause as it involves modifying MB's original design.

If you have a sunroof fitted, both rear drains flow through two small pipes running down each rear/front support. What if you created two more drains at each end of the bottom channel adding a T piece to those pipes?

This would be a similar method as employed by the sunroof drainage, so not too far removed from MB's design principals.