Only one place where it was soldered. Everything appears to be working now. I think what may have happened, is that as I reflowed the solder around the brass rivet to install the copper wire, I might have disconnected the brass rivet entirely and did use enough solder around the shell to provide a new ground. So instead of two grounds, I had none.

To remedy, I made sure the solder was touching the rivet, and then put even more around the copper wire. Everything appears to be in order now.

Thank you!

I soldered in 2 capacitors that I picked up from the local electronics shop. At first the clock only worked for 5min at a time. I noticed that I did not cut one of the leads short enough on the back side of the board and I'm guessing that capasitor was shorting out. Now the clock will keep perfect time as long as the ignition is on. Once the ignition is off I think the clock continues to run for around 4 hours before it stops. There have been various upgrades to the stereo system in the past. I am not stokum on electronics at all, so I'm wondering, does the power for the clock come directly from the battery, or do the capacitors power the clock when the ignition is off. Would they power the clock for 4 hours with no power at all. I'm thinking maybe someone in the past may have spliced wires behind the dash and the clock power is no longer continuous but should be.

Power for the clock should not be dependent on capacitors. It should be a direct line to the battery via a fuse. The clock on my w115 may be dofferent, but they way it works is it’s a mechanical wind up clock. The electricity is constant from the battery, but once it unwinds a certain amount it self-winds. In this way, it only uses very tiny burts of energy from the battery. Anyway, weather your clock is constantly powered or self winding like mine, It should be straight shot to power. At least I think.