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  #1  
Old 04-22-2017, 12:44 PM
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300sd axles

Hello it's me again!

I was looking to buy axles for a 300sd I recently bought, but can't find any online.

the scoop is that car a pop/clunk sound when put into gear and then a grind clunk sound when coming to a stop. I am almost certain it's the axle due to one having easy play left and right (between the diff and wheel) and some when pushed and pulled toward the front and back of the car (sitting on the ground, wheels blocked in neutral, I read this was the way to check them) that axle also has a torn boot.. It wouldn't by chance be fixable with new boots and new grease would it? I'm not thinking so, but hey nothing wrong with asking, right?

I haven't seen any axles for sale online. So I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations of a place i might find a couple.

I've done axle and differential swaps on a w123, so I am pretty familiar with the process. I think i read somewhere on the forum the new axles use a snap wring instead of a clip?

anyway, thanks in advance!

Dan

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Old 04-22-2017, 12:59 PM
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Sounds too late for a simple reboot. Salvage yards may be a possibility. Certain gas cars of your model will use the same axles remember. If you are only going to change one.


If you can find an axle with good boots on the opposite side of your need take that one as you get new wear surfaces by switching sides. Just make sure to relube the joints. Plus add a couple of ounces to the axle you do not change if the boot is good.

When you get a torn boot and the other sides boots are still good. There really is no reason to change that side as well.

As the saying goes opinions are like rectums. Everybody has one. My opinion is the guy that made the decision to use heavy oil instead of grease as the lubricant in those cv joints was brilliant. Too bad it never became mainline for all car cv joints. I also almost believe if maintenance is done on those axles they will normally last the life of the vehicle.

Maintenance is simply making sure the boots are remaining intact and adding a little oil. Perhaps every five years after the first time you do. Grease instead uses soap basically as a carrier of the lubricant. The soap component over the years goes hard. So no longer is there any or enough lubrication in the joint. Too many times I have examined failed cv joints and noticed. There is just a ridge of basically soap sitting outside the dry bearing areas. If there is a lubrication component left in the soap it is trapped for all common sense purposes in it.

So if I buy an older car with grease as the cv lubricant. I will clean and repack the cv joints. I actually have a long list of things that are cheap and increase the reliability on vehicles. I usually do all of them before starting to really put that older car into daily service. I know reliability is really increased by doing so.

Last edited by barry12345; 04-22-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
Sounds too late for a simple reboot. Salvage yards may be a possibility. Certain gas cars of your model will use the same axles remember. If you are only going to change one.


If you can find an axle with good boots on the opposite side of your need take that one as you get new wear surfaces by switching sides. Just make sure to relube the joints. Plus add a couple of ounces to the axle you do not change if the boot is good.

When you get a torn boot and the other sides boots are still good. There really is no reason to change that side as well.

As the saying goes opinions are like rectums. Everybody has one. My opinion is the guy that made the decision to use heavy oil instead of grease as the lubricant in those cv joints was brilliant. Too bad it never became mainline for all car cv joints. I also almost believe if maintenance is done on those axles they will normally last the life of the vehicle.

Maintenance is simply making sure the boots are remaining intact and adding a little oil. Perhaps every five years after the first time you do. Grease instead uses soap basically as a carrier of the lubricant. The soap component over the years goes hard. So no longer is there any or enough lubrication in the joint. Too many times I have examined failed cv joints and noticed. There is just a ridge of basically soap sitting outside the dry bearing areas. If there is a lubrication component left in the soap it is trapped for all common sense purposes in it.

So if I buy an older car with grease as the cv lubricant. I will clean and repack the cv joints. I actually have a long list of things that are cheap and increase the reliability on vehicles. I usually do all of them before starting to really put that older car into daily service. I know reliability is really increased by doing so.
Wow thank you for the response and all the information, Barry!

So mercedes didn't use grease in the C.V. joint huh? I am surprised! what kind of oil did they use? similar to the heavy weight differential fluid? it makes sense because I think all of us who've had these cars have seen what the grease in various electrical parts like the sunroof and windshield wiper assembly does.. gets hard and actually causes failure.. or at least accelerates wear of the motor.

Prior to the end of last year I'd never heard of axles wearing out on one of these diesel mercedes. I mean with the small range of movement the boots don't wear out nearly as fast as cars with front wheel drive.

I don't like the idea of pulling one from a wrecking yard because of the amount of work involved to get it out and the fact that the local pick n pull charges outrageous prices for parts.. i mean especially considering they are used! I may have to resort to that if I don't find a source, though.

I was planning on just doing both sides. the other side is intact (bootwise) but the boots are super worn.. like craced around the circumference of the boot fold. won't be long before they go.. though I suppose I could always just re boot those.

I am going to stop at a local parts store that's been good about finding parts for me and see if they can find something. but will still appreciate tips.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:36 AM
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Yes heavy weight high loading rated oil. Typical rear end oils would do. You might consider posting a parts wanted add. In another section of the site.


Someone out there will be sitting on some good used axels. Just relube them and put them into service. Although it is only a fifty fifty chance they know what side they came off.


Unless they are currently still on a parts vehicle. If so have him mark them. So you are sure to install them on the opposite sides.
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Old 04-23-2017, 04:08 PM
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My Cardone Rebuilt Mercedes Axles came with CV Joint Grease inside and the famous Axle rebuilder in Col. uses CV Joint Grease unless you request Oil.

Another advantage of grease is that if something from the road punctures the boot you are going to loose less grease then you would Oil.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:03 PM
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i think i found a source of axles online... woohoo.. 107 bucks each... I was at pick n pull today, and they had a 300sd.. I could get it off of there. but the cost is 72+ tax... plus I gotta pull it.. might be easier since it's already lifted.. I'd just need to bring in a jack to get the diff back up and make remove of the axle easier. We will see.. may go that route. and reboot but frankly.. with the cost of the used axle from pick n pull and the cost of a boot kit.. it almost seems like it'd come out to the same cost... I did pick up some parts at pick n pull today... and I pretty much told them they charge too much... because.. they do..
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:05 PM
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I also wanted to double check something.. the car makes a clunk sometimes when shifting.. and a clunk when coming to a stop. UNLESS it's in neutral, then there's no sound.. that could still be the axles, correct? I know they need to be addressed regardless since one boot is ripped and that axle has fore and aft play in it, just wanted to get an idea!
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:55 AM
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Just repair the axle system and see if it remains or not. If it does then have a look for it.
Your original description indicated the axle was in pretty bad shape. A noise like you have could originate there.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:02 PM
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Good point.. no one here is a psychic that would know.. lol I'll make an effort to update as soon as I replace the axles (sometimes I have trouble finding my thread, ha)
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:56 PM
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My TD always clunks decelerating, particularly into 1st gear, if there's a vacuum leak. No clunking when no vacuum leak.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:14 PM
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thanks kerry.. that's an excellent point... I am going to check for vacuum leaks on this one. it might need the trans adjusted some too ( my 95 e300 had a terrible clunk... new diff support bushing and a trans adjustment fixed that problem)
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Old 04-26-2017, 12:28 PM
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OK so after reading about the two different axle types.. and noting the one for sale online would need the adapter flange *effectively raising the cost for 2 axles upwards of 400 bucks.. yikes.. i went to pick n pull and pulled a good axle off a 300sd in about 20 minutes.. wasn't too hard at all and the girl that worked there only charged me 35 bucks for it! what a score! Now I just gotta figure out how I am going to reboot this sucker! I've read some articles/posts where people say they just stretched the boot over the can... We will see! haha
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:04 PM
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There are apparently places that deal with cv joints and axles in larger towns and cities. They could reboot at a reasonable cost perhaps. That is if you can locate one.


Or if the existing boots on that axle still look decent. Pull both clamps and pack the joint in grease. Even if the boot does not maintain absolute integrity down the road. The lubrication should still be in there. A really torn or open crack boot will let too much dirt and water in though.
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselbenz25 View Post
OK so after reading about the two different axle types.. and noting the one for sale online would need the adapter flange *effectively raising the cost for 2 axles upwards of 400 bucks.. yikes.. i went to pick n pull and pulled a good axle off a 300sd in about 20 minutes.. wasn't too hard at all and the girl that worked there only charged me 35 bucks for it! what a score! Now I just gotta figure out how I am going to reboot this sucker! I've read some articles/posts where people say they just stretched the boot over the can... We will see! haha
Astoria sells the boots, I have the pneumatic boot gun in the rental section if you have an air compressor. I THINK I have a set of boots I could include if you want to rent the gun. I use synthetic 75w140 gear oil in the axles I reboot. Walmart has one in their brand super cheap. Or you can use mobile 1 oil.
You can also use regular 90weight gear oil. Or even pack with grease iyu feel lucky...

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