So the girl has not been running for about 9 months or so. Front ball joint problems. Managed to repair the ball joint and decided to start her. New battery as the old was dead.

She cranked for around 2 minutes and started running! :-) I turned her off and cleaned up. Wanted to hear her purring one more time before calling it a night. She cranked for around 30 seconds and stopped! Now when I turn the ignition key, nothing! No click. No crank. Let her sit overnight and tried starting the next day. Nothing!

Lights are illuminated on the instrument panel. Glow plug light comes on and goes off. Turn the key and nothing.

I quickly checked the fuses and they all looked good. Where should I go from here?

Thank You!

glenn

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1987 300 TD - Kraut
1987 300 D - Hans

Couple (not so) obvious things to check first

- Be sure the gear selector is in P or N. There is no mechanical interlock that prevents you from withdrawing the key unless you are in P on this car. Just an electrical interlock that prevents cranking. This has gotten me (and my kids) more than once.

- Also note that you have to turn the key *all the way back to 0* after an unsuccessful starting attempt. If you do not do this you can turn the key from II to III but the cranking contact will not make. There is an internal mechanism in the key switch that enforces this.

- Battery connections secure?

If all of these things are true start troubleshooting

Try placing the gear selector in N. If it cranks, you need to investigate the shifter linkage bushings and the NSS on the transmission. With the e-brake set and your foot on the brake, try wiggling the shifter around the N position while holding the key in III and see if you can get contact.

If that fails you'll need to run down the electrical circuit from the key to the starter. If the small purple wire at the starter has voltage then it's time to look at the starter. No voltage then it's the key switch or NSS, these are the only 2 things in the path.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

There is a three-connector junction point on the driver's side cowl (under the windshield and inboard of the brake booster). I'm pretty sure the middle connection is for the start signal to the starter solenoid. Measure for voltage here when you turn the key to "start" position, you'll need at least 10.5 volts for the solenoid to engage the starter. If no voltage, then check fuse #5. If #5 has voltage on both sides, then either the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch is faulty, or (unlikely) there is a wiring fault.

If you're getting good voltage, then either the solenoid or the starter has died.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Try the easy things first. Shifter bushings and NSS. I have had both die on my '81 300SD. Replaced bushings and it started fine for a year. Then nothing. Replaced NSS and it has been fine for another six months.

If it is the starter solenoid, you will generally hear a click (as I remember from the old days).

Shifter bushings, neutral safety switch, loose connection at starter....I have had all of these issues in my 1987 300td.

Thank You for the replies!

I forgot to mention that I had tried starting it in neutral to no avail. No click. Nothing.

I just went out and tested. While holding the key in the start position and pulling the gear shifter partly into Drive, I hear a click. Also, the lights on the dash actually get a little brighter. Same happens when I go toward Reverse...

Further diagnoses? Guru's? :-)

Thank You Again!

glenn

__________________
1987 300 TD - Kraut
1987 300 D - Hans

On the left side of your transmission, find the switch. It has two functions: it controls the backup lights and it also controls "neutral safety". Undo the wiring harness by first shifting the plastic bail (see the photo). The harness will then pull off. Use a twist of wire to short out neutral safety on the harness connector. If the switch is the problem, the car will start.

I think you burned out the starter by cranking continuously for too long. I did that once, and it was a lesson not forgotten.

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Sounds like either dead solenoid or dead starter, assuming your battery charge is strong enough.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC