Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-24-2017, 12:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 607
best tool/approach to remove lift pump

got a NOS lift pump assembly for my turbo IP.


seems to be held on by 3 nuts.


I want to take the old one off, and rebuild it.


and swap in the new one.


seems very tight access to those three nuts.


any tips? I doubt any socket would fit in that gap

__________________
1983 300CD Turbodiesel
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-24-2017, 03:12 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,042
Warning I did not spellcheck!

If you got the complete rebuild kit it will have the large but thin copper crush washer for the big plug. I believe it takes a 30mm wrench (recheck the size on that) to remove that plug assuming ou want to remove it.

It has been a long time. I think I used a short stubby combination wrench for that one that is hard to get at. Can't remember if it is 7,8,9 or 10 mm.

It is a good idea to back of each nut a little and then go to the next and on around to keep the flange from cracking. Because the pump may or may not be under spring tension and the flanges is thin and can be brittle.

If you put the Lift Pump in a vice again keep the jaws away from the flange.

Back to that larger plug that needs teh 30mm wrench or socket. You don't need to remove it but then you cannot inspect the spring and piston.
The hex on the darn plug is so thin that a Cocket or the box end of a combination wrench may be tapered too much to get a good grip on the hex. I hae a socket and I put it on a belt sander and too away the tapered part.

When I worked in a fuel we had the special wrench for that 30mm plug. It was just made of stamped metal just as thick as the hex on the plut. You put it on the plug and tapped the handle with a hammer and the plug loosened. And you did that with the Pump still attached to the Fuel Injection Pump and did not need to worry about it in the vice.

In fact if there is room for you to do so loosen all of the fitting or caps on the pump if you can while it on the fuel injection pump. But, don't be brutal.

After that the darn pump does not want to stay in the vice and it is good to have some aluminum or copper vice shields. Again you need to protect the pump flanges from breaking.

There is a tiny O-ring that goes in a bore where there is a rod that pushes on. The groove for the O-ring is actually inside of the bore and you need to carefully pick out the O-ring and even more carefully install the new one. You need to be careful because if you push it in too far you are gong to need to remove that 30mm Plug I was speaking of to get inside and get it out.

In order to get at the push rod you need to remove a roller tappet and there is sort of a C wire spring that goes around the casting you need to remove.

For more pics see post #11: Can the 617 injection leak into the oil?
Attached Thumbnails
best tool/approach to remove lift pump-fuel-supply-lift-pump-parts-some-parts-labled-10-15.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-24-2017, 03:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 607
thx diesel911,

I'm assuming a NOS lift pump assembly already has the small o-ring installed?

it is a bosch MB lift pump with old style pump that's made of thin aluminum.
__________________
1983 300CD Turbodiesel
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-24-2017, 04:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
The lift pump in Diesel911's post looks like the one on my "M" pump but maybe those were fitted to some "MW"s as well. I've never been into one as I cheated and bought a replacement for my previous MW. I recall it wasn't too hard to remove and I'm thinking I used a 1/4" drive set to do so. The sockets are pretty thin walled and it seems like they fit OK. Been a few years so I might be absolutely wrong there......

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-24-2017, 10:00 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabstick420 View Post
thx diesel911,

I'm assuming a NOS lift pump assembly already has the small o-ring installed?

it is a bosch MB lift pump with old style pump that's made of thin aluminum.
I forgot to post I am not sure what NOS actually means. To me it mean "no other source".

If it is a new Lift Pump then of course it is complete and no need to rebuild it.

On a used Lift Pump little O-ring wears out and or gets hard.

The Aluminum Hand Primer is a reputed souce of Air Leaks. Rule of thumb. If it leaks when you pump it replace it with a newer style real Bosh pump. Also the Aluminum is so thin that you usually dent or mangle it trying to get it unscrewed.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-24-2017, 10:06 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,042
The M type fuel supply lift pumps have only 2 nuts/studs holding them on to the Fuel Injection Pump.

The MWs use 2 nuts/studs as do a lot of other Bosch inline pumps.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-24-2017, 11:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 607
NOS=new old stock
__________________
1983 300CD Turbodiesel
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-25-2017, 04:26 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabstick420 View Post
NOS=new old stock


Thanks.


If it is new the O-ring is also new.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-25-2017, 11:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,115
Mine looks the same w/ 3 nuts which secure it to studs on the IP. Yes, very difficult to swing a wrench. All I could get on was a thin 10 mm box wrench, but not ground down (like for the fan clutch). Problem is it is spring-loaded so you can't just loosen then spin the nuts off with your fingers. With the spring, you must slowly wrench them off little by little. Of course, if you get the crank in the right locating, the plunger will be more extended so the spring won't fight you as far.

Insure you have the correct gasket. I swapped an IP last year and got too jiggy because I didn't have the proper gasket. I thought a round one I had for another set would work, but it left the ears cantilevered. Later, my son complained of an oil leak and found one ear had snapped off. Fortunately, I had a spare lift pump, and had ordered the proper gasket in the interim.

Re alternate lift pumps, I saw many on ebay for Bosch IP's when searching for rebuild kits. They were much cheaper than for our cars. The bodies looked almost the same, but the orientation of the fuel ports varied, w/ many sticking out horizontally. Perhaps someone will figure how to adapt one to our cars.
__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-26-2017, 12:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 607
ratcheting box wrench perhaps?

been wanting to get a set. now perhaps I have a good reason

not sure if they are thin enough profile to squeeze in there
__________________
1983 300CD Turbodiesel
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-26-2017, 03:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,115
I have 2 sets of ratcheting box wrenches. One is Craftsman. They make removing glow plugs much easier. But, too fat to fit on the nuts on the lift pump.
__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-26-2017, 03:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabstick420 View Post
ratcheting box wrench perhaps?

been wanting to get a set. now perhaps I have a good reason

not sure if they are thin enough profile to squeeze in there
I'm with Bill on that. They have to be big enough to fit the ratchet in the head and so are not small in the head area. Try your 1/4" drive stuff and see if they will do it for you - and they don't take up much room in your tool bag.

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-26-2017, 04:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Carolina
Posts: 1,542
I just got done doing this. Seriously, just this afternoon.
Took me about 30 minutes all together. I've done it a few times now over by years of Benzing.
Piece a cake really. Bent over the driver side fender. Use a little small 10 mm combination spanner. Be prepared for a small gush of oil to come out.
__________________
Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-26-2017, 04:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 607
thanks two tank.

no need to drain the engine oil to do this?

I've read that if the lobe on the ip is pressed against the lift pump, it can make removal and reinstall difficult.

did you face any challenges?
__________________
1983 300CD Turbodiesel
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-26-2017, 08:45 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabstick420 View Post
thanks two tank.

no need to drain the engine oil to do this?

I've read that if the lobe on the ip is pressed against the lift pump, it can make removal and reinstall difficult.

did you face any challenges?
It is hard to tell if the sprig is compressed when the Lift Pump is on the Fuel Injection Pump.
However, you will know if it was under spring tension when you remove it.

If it was under spring tension when you removed it it is a good idea to crank the Engine till then cam lobe that actuates the Lift Pump is at the lowest spot.
When the Engine is being cranked keep you finger out of the hole. When stopped you can carefully insert your finger and see where the came lobe is.
Or use a mirror to view it.

When you are done you will need to ad a little makeup oil.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page