So the problem happened when I was getting ready to replace the valve lifters and my brother pulled the camshaft incorrectly. This was evident when I checked on his progress by running through with him what the manual and what folks from peach parts have provided as to how to properly pull the camshaft.

Here's what I was able to catch by "auditing" the progress.

He pulled the camshaft BEFORE...

Setting the engine to TDC,

Loosening the chain tensioner

Removing camshaft sprocket bolt

Didn't tie down the sprocket gear.

Also, when reinstalling the cam, the painted mark the camshaft sprocket (which I ASSUME to be the camgear timing/marking) didn't line up at all with the TDC marks on the camshaft. But the camshaft was able to get inside it's "Key Hole" in spite of this misalignment.

The manual says, "set the camshaft sprocket according to marking" (right after placing the camshaft at TDC). But what do I need to do in order to correct the camshaft sprocket "marking"? It seems like it could be way off for all I know.

After all of that.

Engine was set at TDC with camshaft out, then camshaft was installed back in. We didn't start the engine yet, how much work do I have ahead of me?

Any help on this issue would mean the world.


Thanks

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

You are going to have to re-establish the basic timing of the engine from scratch.

I hope your brother did not damage the cam by not following the de-torquing sequence.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Any idea how to establish basic timing from scratch?

Is it...

1. Set engine ignition to TDC (It is the pulley below the camgear with all the numbers right? I have done this previously)

2. Set camshaft at TDC by using cam bearing cap marks for alignment. (I have done this before on the OM603 as well)

3. Install camshaft sprocket according to marking. (This I do not know how to do, and would appreciate anyone who can give me instructions on how to do it, since the manual does not)

Once those three steps are completed then setting the timing from scratch should be complete correct? If not, what extra steps are needed to set the engine timing from square one?

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

This should work fine. Note that in step 2., there is a groove in the shoulder of the camshaft that is lined up with the ridge on the bearing caps. All the camshaft bearing caps have the same ridge, you can lay a straight edge along them and extend over the camshaft shoulder to get a better measurement of the camshaft timing.

You'll have to install the chain tensioner, and then rotate the engine several times by hand to ensure no contact between pistons and valves, and then check the timing. You'll have to loosen the tension to move the chain over the camshaft gear to adjust the timing.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Thanks for the reply.


However, how do I adjust the sprocket if it's connected to the engine?
Do I remove it completely and put it back in at the right timing?


Or is there a way I can move the sprocket independently so I can match it with cam timing.


I tried turning the sprocket and it just sits there.


Or am i going to have to stick something in the sprocket wheel to stop it from moving while engine and cam timing is being adjusted.


I'm completely lost at how to get the sprocket corrected.
is it possible you can go over it for me again or add in more details?


Thank you.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Do you have this procedure?

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/05-220.pdf

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

I would remove the glow plugs and try turning the engine over by hand. If the valve timing is off much the engine will stop rotating. Because it is an interference type engine. Do not force it.

It is a pretty long description of how to deal with it if you find the engine will not rotate. If the bottom or harmonic balancer mark is off or you cannot reach it by rotation. If by good fortune you can reach it. It will be easier. Just do not force it to get there.

Then I or some members will suggest things. Also mention if you have already tried to crank the engine with the starter. If you have not do not try. If you have already still do not try again. Yet if you already did. Did the engine rotate?

yes

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Ok I'll rotate it by hand when I get home

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Don't move the sprocket, move the chain on the sprocket. To get enough slack, you remove the tensioner. After you've moved the chain, re-install the tensioner and check the timing again by rotating the engine by hand.

I like the idea of removing the glow plugs so that there is no compression.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Sounds by this you have not tried rotating with the starter and that is good.. Again if you can reach zero on the harmonic balancer. This would be great and stop there. If you hit resistance beyond compression resistance with the glow plugs or injectors still installed.

Try to reach the needed lower balancer marks by rotating in the opposite direction. Just do not force things. This is going to be probably pretty easy. That's if you can reach the balancer marks. You then have a known refferance point to relate the others to.

Just more work if you cannot reach the balancer marks is all.

Just to save some back and forth. If you can reach the balancer marks. You will not know what engine stroke you are on. So you will set the balancer marks to the recommended setting for timing the injection pump. Then locate the timing port on the injection pump. Remove the cap and see if the tang is in the middle of the opening with a small mirror. There is only a fifty fifty chance it will be there. You cannot bypass this step if you can reach those balancer marks. Otherwise you risk having to pull the injection pump later. This is also very important to having the camshaft marks. Or getting them in the right relationship to the overall situation.

I think you know but it is worth making sure. The crankshaft turns twice before the cam shaft and injection pump turn once. If you were to look at the cam gear with the harmonic balancer on the zero marks. The cam marks will either line up or the cam gear mark is 180 degrees off. Dependant if the status of the the harmonic balancer. We verify the way things are by the checking of the injection pump tang before going on.

This is why it is important whenever dealing with the overall engine timing. Setting the bottom harmonic balancer marks. Require making sure the cam marks line up. If they do not you know you have to turn the crankshaft 360 degrees or one complete turn to make them do it. The lack of understanding this gets a lot of people in hot water. It creates no engine damage but the engines barely run. The only easiest cure is removing the injection pump. Turning the engine crankshaft one turn and reinstallation of the injection pump.

If I attempt to help a fellow member I probably frequently insult them by explaining too much. At the same time I have no ideal of how much they know so I have to make sure that I leave out nothing. A lot of members know more than myself at the same time.

l also remembered that if I wanted to relieve the normal compression. Your engine I suspect has a reputation for difficult glow plugs. So I would pull the injectors instead if this is true.

Thanks a million. I literally cannot express the how much I appreciete the help.

If I could gives you guys a big ol bear hug I would!

Now that car runs A LOT better than it used too

Here is a video of it running.

I compared it to the OP and i'm blown away.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hl-HFUxt1Fw

Lifer noise is gone, injector knocking was absent with diesel purge but the injector nailing returned after I ran it on regular fuel.

Feels like I took a huge leap forward.

Again thank you!

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

What actually transpired when you got into it? There is a chance if it was out of time you did something nobody had thought of.

In any event it was good to see you solved it. It went so easy that I suspected you reached the balancer marks and the can lined up either on or close.

Did you do the backing off of the chain tensioner? That is where you push it through and restart it. Otherwise your chain could be too tight. There is a ratchet system internally that will not let it self retreat. Since you did not change the chain though it is okay not to do this. Just never forget to do it if you ever change the chain. The addition of a racheting system to the chain tensioner probably was done in the seventies.

The engine sounds pretty good as well.

Engine sounds great! Injector knock isn't uncommon on these engines. The injectors themselves can cause it as can the delivery valves. So far I've had 0/0 success with injectors and 2/2 success with delivery valve swaps on mine. If you're considering injectors, strongly consider the Monark injector nozzles. I swapped in a set to upgrade from the 1 year old Bosch India nozzles and the difference is PROFOUND. Smoother, quieter, easier starting, less smoke, significantly more power. If you don't have the tools and equipment to re-nozzle your injectors, contact member Greazzer on this forum, he has a shining reputation for doing a great job with injector rebuilds.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Don't deprive us, tell us about how the chain timing worked out!

X2 on what Diseasel300 says, nailing could be injectors or delivery valves or use a lot of carbon build up that needs to be burned out.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC