Complete-loss or dead-loss oil systems were common in early rotary engined airplanes. All lubricating oil was pumped thru the engine and lost. Never returned to a sump and covering the pilots in oil.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

to be honest i couldn't figure out where the overboost switchover valve is supposed to be. I don't see one in there, based on what i think i'm expecting to see.

Usually its between the manifold and the aldo in the middle of that line connecting the two.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

i may be very wrong, but here is what i see as the connection line between alda and manifold. The orange arrows follow the line.
There isn't any switch valve along the way.
Maybe i am missing something entirely...

You can download a vacuum diagram in a search here. There is one in your engine bay, but probably too worn to read well. As I recall, a black tube runs from the Vacuum Control Valve (VCV, yellow plastic bolted to top of injection pump) into the cabin. That is likely the tube that is capped in your hand. It is supposed to be open to the air, but not to the nasty air under the hood. That is why they run it into the cabin thru the rubber grommet. There should also be a small clear filter in-line so you don't suck dust into your VCV and vacuum system. Indeed, buy 2 filters and put the other on the tube to the IP shutoff valve so you can see when it starts sucking oil thru (torn diaphragm) before that gets all in the vacuum system.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

So with the loose capped end tube, you are suggesting that i should be looking for a grommet hole somewhere that leads into the cabin? Maybe this tube popped out and a previous owner didn't know where it went so capped it?

Any pointers for finding the clear filters to purchase?

thanks!

Here is the switchover valve on my 300SD. No idea about your vehicle. This is a new one; the old one looked just a little different. In the bottom pic I had the top nipple blocked off which is wrong; it should be open to atmosphere as in top pic.

I have found two switchover valves that look nearly identical to this one you pictured, but they are mounted elsewhere. Neither of them connects to the alda in any way, where as yours connects to the "front" along with a second tube.

The "front" of my alda's two connections go..
1) back around the engine and connects to the manifold (pictured previously with orange arrows)
2) to the blue disc (which i believe is the VAC) pictured here..



and here are the two similar looking valve switches... probably for other purposes not overboost protection..? Is it possible that there is no overboost protection installed on this car, or that a previous owner removed it? And if so, does it appear that my connections as they are would follow this theory?

It appears your system is plumbed without an overboost protection switch.

It also looks from an earlier picture that your heater temperature control is now a manual valve so your automatic temperature control wont work.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Yes i figured out that the protection switch is completely not there.

As for the heat.. very interesting. The heater was always not even close to being hot enough when i tested the car out in winter, so i bought a heater valve to do the swap since this is a common problem.. only to discover that my entire heater valve system isn't even there anywhere. It's completely gone.

So what would you suggest to solve the heat problem? Is there simply an adjustment now?

As for turbo... i went ahead and dissassembled the line from the alda to the intake manifold... Both banjo bolts were totally stuffed with soot and also the line itself had soot through it. I blew it out with an air blower with a tight seal at one end and the line passes air cleanly now. I also thoroughly cleaned out both banjo bolts. I didn't use any cleaner solution since i only have PB Blaster and WD40 on hand, but i think i did a good job without it. And i can easily re-clean them when i have something like brake fluid on hand.

So, with a refurb'd turbo, and fully working alda-manifold lines, maybe i'll have some luck. Since the overboost switch is non existent, maybe this narrows things down if i still somehow don't have any boost.

The major concern still is the leak. With the slightly thicker and wider seal in place, maybe it'll be tight enough to not leak too much. I don't know if i have a gauge to say the previous leak was TOO much, but it certainly appeared so to me.

I will update when i've got the car started up!

Looked to me as if the valve was closed so no coolant running thru the heater core.

The plugged line explains the sluggishness.

Take a video of the oil leak if it happens and post it up here.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

WELL,
I fixed the leak. So that's nice. It was a better seal material/design i suppose.
BUT, after taking it for a spin for fifteen minutes around the neighborhood, the car runs exactly as it did before.
This is with a replaced turbo, a replaced flex coupler to contain output exhaust from turbo to exhaust line (had been completely cracked open), a well patched exhaust line underneath (there was one holea), a cleaned out Alda-to-Manifold line + both banjo bolts, and we know that there is no overboost protection switch causing any problems. Also both fuel filters were replaced with new ones, and the same for the fuel tank filter.
It's pretty disappointing after all of this time and energy. It's been months i've been planning for this day!
Any suggestions what to try next? Could it be possible that something is totally miscalibrated somewhere in the boost system?
It literally feels exactly the same.. If i'm stopped at a stop sign on somewhat of an incline, just a few degrees of uphill slope, getting the car through the intersection from stop is a matter of fully pressing the accelarator while the RPM's go mid way up the gauge and still the car picks up embarrasingly slow and a good bit of smoke comes out the exhaust totally pissing off anyone behind me.
How do i know if the turbo is even doing anything?

You need to put a boost gauge in the system to know if the turbo is working. Boost usually starts kicking in at around 2500 rpm's. You won't see much boost at all off the line so that's normal. It takes a fair amount of exhaust pressure to make the turbo spool up.
You need to make a video of this happening and post it on here for people to view. It's much easier to diagnose with a lot of visual and audio data.
From your description it sounds as if the transmission is slipping.
Have you driven another 300d to get a comparison with standard performance parameters? These cars are never fast right off the line.
Are you sure its starting out in first gear?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I think your turbo has a port for a boost gauge.

I think the KKK turbo is easy to adjust boost pressure.

might want to try that.

I have thought about doing this, and have also considered getting my turbo rebuilt, but after reading this I may leave well enough alone- for now...

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1983 300CD Turbodiesel