I bought a reman starter on eBay, the seller has an approval rating of 99.7%, this on nearly 2000 sales. It arrived, looks like the real deal, so I lit into it. Undid the nuts on the original and discovered that the smallest post, no doubt that from the ignition switch, is significantly smaller than that on the reman. Also, "15 A" is stamped near the post of the original, the reman has a "50" stamped in approx the same spot, no mention of amps.





I've been searching, can't find any specs on solenoids for various starters in approx this range. The sellers page had this for the vehicles this starter would fit:

190D L4 2.2L 2197cc Diesel 1984-1985
190D L5 2.5L 2497cc Diesel 1986-1989
300D L5 2.5L 2497cc Diesel 1990-1993
300E L6 3.0L 2962cc Diesel 1987
300SD L6 3.4L 3449cc Diesel 1992-1993
300SDL L6 3.0L 2998cc 1986-1987
300TD L6 3.0L 2998cc 1987
350SD L6 3.4L 3449cc Diesel 1991
350SDL L6 3.4L 3449cc Diesel 1990-1991

Maybe this should have been a red flag. While one would think that the wheel doesn't need to be reinvented for every vehicle, it's amazing in my experience how often they make small changes from one model to the next that are hard to figure.

I found this old thread, the guy said the solenoid was different on his reman but worked. Maybe he meant different serial/model number. I'd need to put a larger gromet on the wire and then the starter would show signs of having been installed - no return available. But the different amp rating is not something that should be ignored.

What frustrates me, I'm unable to find what I should specify, aside from the specifics of the ignition bolt size, to insure I get the correct one the second time. My digital caliper's metric function no longer works, only English fractions, the post on the reman is 15/64ths - just under 6 mm. The original is 9/64ths, or about 3.5 mm. Must be 4.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

You get the same type of connectivity trouble with alternators too if it makes you feel any better...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The 15 A stamp is "circuit 15 " / " sub circuit A " not amps.

Don't blame the seller for any of this, the number of small insignificant variations on car parts through the years is staggering. For a pro shop this is a non issue, make one cut in the eyelet and spread it out just enough to fit over the stud ( like a fork ) .

If this is unacceptable, order an official MB reman from the company that sponsors this site. ( In other words, it is very OK to ask about the difference before pressing forward but not OK to leave neg / neutral feed back on e bay. )

If the rebuilder has a good reputation. It probably will be a good unit. The few good rebuilders left tend not to use junk replacement parts.

I never realized just how many junk replacement parts for starters and alternators are out there. Until I started buying some of them.

I highly suspect that the chains sell only reconditioned starters and alternators using them. Other than the bosh rebuilts.

I wasn't going to leave poor feedback. I get that these things happen. I was feeling apprehensive about putting a new fitting on the wire, I recall for example on the fuel pumps on my Bimmers one post would be larger than the other, sort of an easy safeguard against switching the pos and neg leads. But that would not be an issue here.

I would rather it work than send it back. I'll look for a brass fitting I can solder on to the lead.

FWIW the seller has agreed to accept it back if I want to go that way. I haven't taken the original out yet, I could do that and compare them closely.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Send it back with photos of what you want. When they straighten everything out remember to give them a positive rating.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Yep, I should have been more clear with " Please don't leave. . ."

Cutting / spreading the eyelet is acceptable as fork terminals exist on many pieces of machinery / electrics however If you don't want to do that, is the eyelet large enough that you can ream it out? Another solution is to make a jumper wire and bolt one end to the car harness.

He's not one of the huge distributors - has nearly 2000 sales. He's now listed at 100% favorability. Not sure I get that, it was about 99.8 when I bought it. Pretty good either way. Here is his email:

I forget how big the fitting on the small post is. Maybe I could ream it out. I think I'll buy a larger fitting to have on hand, take the original out and compare the two carefully. Would be easier and quicker than sending it back. Plus I lose about $12 in the refund.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I dunno, I have the original out and it's visually different than the reman, numbers slightly different, the latter not necessarily a thing. Being longer does not necessarily mean more powerful ... but ...





I did a search with the numbers, it's hard going.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

The starter I bought for my 107 was much smaller than the original. Still bolted up fine.
The reman starter came with a set of new crimp on terminals, presumably matching studs on solenoid, but they were not needed.

You need to get the right wires going to the right places. Get the wiring diagram if you can. This link explains what the 15, 30, 50 mean.

Bosch Terminal Designations

Wiring for starter can be found on page 106 here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/66n4ragz2in5ykk/126from86.pdf?dl=1

Looks like only terminals 30 and 50 are used? Thinner violet/white wire to terminal 50. Heavy black and slightly smaller Red to terminal 30? Double check this for your car!

Page 106/1 shows a different starter from 1991 cars it seems. With just one wire from battery, seems like that is what the link in your original post may have had.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Some years back I spotted two rebuilders in California advertising on ebay. At the time I mentioned members might consider using them as it appeared they were doing quality rebuilds. At fair prices. You pretty much want a new solenoid present on a good rebuild. Anything but bosh I consider not equal.

The chain rebuilders are supplying at contracted lowest possible prices. So expect the cheapest solinoids the rebuilders can obtain or even worse the original still on them and painted. Do not expect new bosh ones on their rebuilts.

There are two issues with them used. They suffer draw in issues at the voltage in our cars but not at a full twelve volt test on a bench. Plus the high current contacts will have wear. Plus the internal coil may have cooked a little over the years.

I had some problems even years ago with chain starters and alternators. Today I would feel better just pulling a used starter off a wreck that a chain rebuilt. Not because of the price differential ether.

Anyways I suspect you may have used one of those good rebuilders. . You cannot get that type of feedback on starters and alternators unless you are doing really good work. Plus using good replacement parts.

I have no ideal of what the future holds for the junk new parts rebuilders. Medium sized ones in north America shut down years ago. They experienced too many warranty returns when using north American labor to survive.

Bosh rebuilts purchased from the chains are probably good but higher in cost. Almost double perhaps in comparison to those starters and alternators they source from the junk parts users.

It's a tough one. At some point, size is going to be related to power. Mass of copper in the armature, etc.

If I install it and it doesn't work well, not sure what sort of drama I would then be in for regarding a refund.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

It looks to me from the photos (obviously photos can be deceiving) that the motor part is the same size on both. The Bendix section is shorter on the reman, making the overall length shorter.

FWIW, the reman in my SDL is the same style as your reman, complete with the 8mm stud on the relay and it's been working fine. Was an Auto-Zone rebuild installed by the PO and had the solenoid drowning in axle grease, but that's another story. Cleaned that mess off and it's been solid. With all of the engine problems I had last year that poor thing's lived a REALLY HARD life. If it was going to give up, I'd have expected it to have done so by now.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Good food for thought - this is a tough one. I measured what looks like the part of the motor that contains the armature - the black part on the original in post #9. It's 2 15/16 long and the corresponding piece on the reman is 2 11/16.

I'm having trouble getting any sort of official word on this, not that your experience is not useful, would be nice to have some sort of MB engineer seal of approval. The high compression ratio of a diesel is making me feel cautious.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

If there are Bosch part numbers, post them and I'll try to locate some info for you.