1974 W115 240D Pull Start knob - Is it Rebuildable? It won't always start by pulling all the way out, a over-ride button was in place when I got the car. If the pull start doesn't work, most of the time the buton does - (one wire goes from button switch to batt and other to starter)

But I would like to know if there is some sort of contact on this rod that it makes contact with, can it be rebuilt and/or fixed? I'd rather have it start like it was originally designed to.

Also, sometimes I get a dead spot where it won't do a thing, neither button or the pull, playing with the key switch most times gets it started. So do I have two faulty switches or just one and can the pull knob starter be rebuilt/fixed?

The Knob will shut down engine and it will activate the glow plugs

Is there a specific manual for this model year of car without getting a Chilton or Haynes manual which is so bland?
Also same for the 240D 123 chassis?

I call that switch the gorilla switch. I hate the electrical side of it. The mechanical side is good: A cable goes to the ignition switch so you need to have the gorilla switch all the way in to turn the key off (you don't want to turn off the car's electrical system or lock the steering wheel with the engine running). Another cable goes to the fuel pump shut off (you'll like the cable - newer cars are vacuum). Most of the time the electrical side fails, either the glow plug contact or the starter contact. I'm waiting on parts so I can test retrofit options and will post when I'm done. Don't know if it can be rebuilt, to answer the question.

Intermittent operation sounds like dirty electrical contacts on the two hot wires going from the key switch to the gorilla switch, or in the key switch itself. Try cleaning. Good to hear the glow side works. FYI: three wires as output on gorilla switch. One to upstream side of the "pepper shaker" on the dash (glow position), one to downstream side of pepper shaker and one to starter solenoid (start position) - takes the pepper shaker out of the circuit when starter turns. Pepper shaker needs to be there when glowing to keep the current down to 50-60A and extend life of glow plugs.

Regarding the manuals, the CD offered here is a good start. Does most things that aren't common sense, except that it doesn't do transmissions. I'd be complete with a transmission manual.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

I probably already know the answer since I personally haven't found the actual switchgear yet, and haven't contorted myslef into the obscene angles necessary to get under the dash. But, is all the wiring to the knob under the dash? I'm thinking that it is, and hoping not....... TIA.

Diesel Power,

It's all under the dash. If you're going to be spending time under there then build a bed with plywood and 2x4s, as long as a creeper. A gap for the door sill and legs to the ground for the part that sticks out the car. Learned that one from a young car stereo guy. They seem to like the under dash stuff.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

I found out I don't have to crawl under the dash the pull out instrument panel serves a a great way to gain access to botht the ignition as well as that gorilla knob - unplug the main wire plug and unplug the speedo cable and you have good access to much of the area. Then pull panel below to get hands stuck into a foreign place - ha ha.

Very aggravating. just when you think it has been spolved, it makes a total liar out of you. Totally dead. Then for who knows what reason the knob works flawlesly like it was originally suppose to. Go Figure!

I am also assuming here that the oil pressure guage is of the live type with an oil supply line? I know this would be MUCH better than contortions, as well as cheaper than building a body support. I believe that I'm likely going to need a speedo cable anyway, since the speedo doesn't work.