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  #16  
Old 06-14-2017, 08:31 PM
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Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
I don't think 2-3 inches is possible, maybe an inch or two, but you can install the thickest spring pads, and replace all the springs (old springs get tired). There are many variations of springs for the front suspension, but I think you only have one choice for the rear.
My 280TE has saggy bum, so really bad camber, checked the S.L.S., new fluid, still saggy. Tram suggested to check the rubber pads, and sure enough, reduced in height and the passenger side inner is collapsed, so the spring is kicked inward.

Have heavy duty springs for when was going to do that to the 300TD-T, which is now not an option. So, now thinking to try it with the 280TE since the M110 is only about 25kg lighter. Willing to accept there will be more putting together and taking apart to get it right. Don't want super off road look, mainly so can haul more, especially a trailer. Last time, had rubbing on the rear wheels. Yep, my wagens get used as heavy haulers.

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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2017, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
I just did some calculations that tire increases the overall diameter by 8.1% or two full inches. And you have no issues there? I was worried about going up 4% or one inch in total diameter.

I'm looking at going with new wheels, and a 205/60 R16. Any thoughts out there?
You should be at no rub with that size tire. With my 27.50s, I would only get the slightest rub on the passenger side. The driver side would never rub, no matter what I did. I think I might have a collapsed pad thinking back on it.
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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.
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  #18  
Old 06-16-2017, 11:47 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
I just did some calculations that tire increases the overall diameter by 8.1% or two full inches. And you have no issues there? I was worried about going up 4% or one inch in total diameter.
I've had no issues, but your mileage may vary. Literally. Remember, though, I have done a manual transmission swap which is notorious for raising front ride height. I'm running considerably more beefy springs on the rear to equalize. I used to think MB was being beyond anal retentive with their 30-entry spring selection charts, but one thing I learned was that these things respond more dramatically to weight than you might think.

Thanks for the kind comments on the car, OM617YOTA and Crazy4diesel! I'm really happy with the paint - I took it down to bare metal and epoxy primered it, then did the spray job myself. SPI clear coat is an awesome product. I also used to think all the folks singing its praises were brainwashed or something, but it totally made this job and was worth every penny.

The engine rebuild was also interesting. Lots of doom and gloom out there about DIY rebuilds, and I would put this one at one level of difficulty over a gasser, but all-in-all it wasn't too bad.

I've taken lots of pictures, and may do a soup-to-nuts rebuild thread one of these days.
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  #19  
Old 03-17-2022, 09:18 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2022
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Hi Pragmatic. I'm looking at your Lesjofors 42 568 69 springs for my application. How has this setup held up for you? My car has had sls struts replaced with stock sedan shocks, and I'm not willing to spend the $1k its costing now to get a new set. Lesiofors are about 70$. My current springs are shot and likely my frame mounts as well. I'm riding about 3" too low in the back. I just want to get back to stock ride height with a reasonable ride. I see you used a 2 nub spacer, and I'm wondering if that would be overly aggressive for stock height. I'm thinking the lesiofors would compensate for the lack of sls and with a 1 nub spacer give me pretty close to the right height using stock sedan shocks. It's possible they will create a harder ride but it's either these or I need to get custom springs. I don't really want to spend that much. Thoughts?
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  #20  
Old 03-17-2022, 10:17 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN
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I put some 4256806 (1163240804) with 3 nub spacers in my sedan, and it rides just a smidgen high in the rear now.

I've got some other pads I'll be putting in to drop it down a smidgen, that should put it right where I want, slightly higher than stock, much stiffer than stock (I always hated how bad the back end of my cars sag if you put 4 or 5 people in them)

There is a spring chart posted here: How to lower about 1.5 inches, 1982 300CD

Along with the part numbers of what I had stock, what I used, and option to lower it.
Be mindful of the 2 charts, the larger one is for rear springs, the smaller chart is for front springs

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1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car")
1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car")
2001 Ford F150 "Clifford" (The Big Red Truck)
1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
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1995 E300D, 1980 300SD, 1992 Buick Century, 2005 Saturn Ion
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