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  #16  
Old 06-07-2017, 09:00 AM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
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Shiny is OK, but if you can feel a groove with your finger nail, it needs to be replaced.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2017, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Shiny is OK, but if you can feel a groove with your finger nail, it needs to be replaced.


Other than damage to the vacuum pump, would a scored or worn stroke curve cause any other symptoms, like rough running? And wouldn't the take-off VP show signs of damage if there was real risk to the new part?
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:30 PM
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Ugh. Got everything back together okay, but over-torqued one of the VP bolts and snapped the head off. I read somewhere to torque to 22 lb-ft*, and I was using a high-quality CDI torque wrench.

Worse, it's the one on the lower right, which is probably the toughest to actually see! I don't think there's any way I'm going to be able to drill it out, as I haven't had much success in better conditions. So, for now, we'll just see how bad it's going to leak.

I was also afraid to over-torque the bolt that holds the tension arm on...the aluminum block is just so damn squishy, I don't understand the torque values that are called for, they seem way too high.

* Actually it's 10 NM, so like 7-8 lb-ft. I think I knew that, not sure why I said 22...maybe I did do 22 and that's why it snapped. $#^$(*!!!
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1992 300D 2.5 Turbo
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Dieselmeken 7,5mm | Sportline Interior
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Last edited by Bimmer-Bob; 06-08-2017 at 10:51 AM.
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2017, 09:56 PM
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.....Aaaaaaand it's leaking. Of course it is! I should have figured that, being one of the lower bolts, it was certain to.

So now I get to take everything apart again. Honestly, it's kind of a pain, but won't take too long, really. I'm eager to see how much work I'm in for - if the bolt is flush (or deeper) to the timing case, it's going to be interesting. Anyone have any favorite methods? Are those "Easy Out" kits worth a damn?

Also, I assume I'm okay to re-use the gasket? I mean it's barely used. I did look around for a new one, but couldn't find any of the "dammed" versions. I do have all new hardware on the way, though.

Good times!
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My Build Thread
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2017, 11:19 PM
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You can reuse the vacuum pump gasket. I've had mine off several times dealing with IP issues and it still doesn't leak. I never used a torque wrench on mine, just "snug and then some".
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2017, 11:44 PM
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x2. I get all the bolts in finger tight to where the gap is even all around then tighten a quarter turn at a time until in a 6-lug bolt pattern until it bottoms. Then snug to screwdriver tight.

Since you're going in again, the dam gasket part bumber is 601 238 03 80.

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  #22  
Old 06-09-2017, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Since you're going in again, the dam gasket part bumber is 601 238 03 80.
Thanks! But are you sure this is the correct part number - I can't get any hits on Pelican, ECS, or the dealer sites.

EDIT: Never mind, I changed the second to last group to search for superseding part numbers, looks like the latest revision is 601 238 08 80 - which I think is the p/n I was already searching. Hard to find pic of exactly what you're buying, but the few pics I do see are of the standard (un-dammed) gasket. Maybe I'll pay the $6 for the OE part and see what I get.
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  #23  
Old 06-09-2017, 10:33 AM
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I have a spare vac pump gasket that is the same part number you posted above, purchased from the dealer. It is a non-dammed gasket. Apparently the only way to get the one with the dam is to buy a new vac pump.

The original ran without a dammed gasket for >30 years with the original design vac pump (stamped cover). I wouldn't lose any sleep running a non-dammed gasket.

You should be able to use your existing dammed gasket again though. Unless you just really went crazy and overtightened the snot out of it, you should still have a "ridge" in the center of the gasket face which should be an adequate seal. Like I said before, my vac pump has been on and off 4-5 times with all the BS I had to do to my poor engine and it's still on the same gasket with no leaks.
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  #24  
Old 06-09-2017, 11:58 AM
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Bob, the torque spec for such delicate items are snug em up. Same with oil pan bolts and everything else. You only need specs on internal engine parts. I believe I mentioned this before and wished you would have followed the advice.
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2017, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
Bob, the torque spec for such delicate items are snug em up. Same with oil pan bolts and everything else. You only need specs on internal engine parts. I believe I mentioned this before and wished you would have followed the advice.


I know - I was doing it the right way and second-guessed myself and screwed up. Oh well! Not the end of the world. Gonna let the car sit for a couple of days and then dive back in.
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  #26  
Old 06-10-2017, 10:46 PM
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So, here's the damage. I guess it could be worse - there is a little sliver of bolt coming up out of the timing case, but not enough to grab with pliers, and certainly not enough to be able to torque the rest of the bolt out with.

So that leaves me with drilling. Trouble is, there really isn't enough space to get a drill in there, at least not at 90...unless I pull the radiator (which, obviously, I really don't want to do).

Thoughts? Tips?

VP R&R-broken-bolt.jpg
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My Build Thread
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  #27  
Old 06-11-2017, 08:28 PM
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Post Broken Bolt Removal

That's a 6MM 1.0 bolt, yes ? .

I'd go ahead and drop the radiator and use my cute little toy looking chisel to knock it back wards a tiny bit until I could grab it with a pair of Dykes .

If you try to short cut this job , you're likely to wind up pulling your hair out in clumps .

Remember to stuff rags / plastic bags in the opening before you begin so no dirt/Swarf/dead bodies/etc. fall in the open hole ! .
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1982 240D creampuff 363,000 miles, just overhauled
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD 90K Miles ICE COLD AC ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 423,XXX miles
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1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
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  #28  
Old 06-11-2017, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
That's a 6MM 1.0 bolt, yes ? .

I'd go ahead and drop the radiator and use my cute little toy looking chisel to knock it back wards a tiny bit until I could grab it with a pair of Dykes .

If you try to short cut this job , you're likely to wind up pulling your hair out in clumps .

Remember to stuff rags / plastic bags in the opening before you begin so no dirt/Swarf/dead bodies/etc. fall in the open hole ! .
Yes, it's about 5-6mm at the threads. I'm planning to cover up the gaping hole into the timing case, but thanks for mentioning it.

I'm not sure I understand your proposed technique, though - how would hit it with a chisel (further into the timing case) make it easier to grab a hold of?
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My Build Thread
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  #29  
Old 06-11-2017, 10:36 PM
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Diesel Dandy
 
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Post Broken Bolt Removal

One uses the very edge of the chisel to turn the broken bolt back wards .

It's a delicate and tricky thing to do, in learning how I massed up a few .

I'm sure Harbor Freight has a 90 drill you can ever so carefully use, I'd prolly use a 3 or 4 MM bit but as mentioned, VERY EASY TO SNAP OFF .

FWIW, Permatex now makes a fantastic anaerobic sealant called " The Right Stuff ", comes in tubes and aerosol cans, you lay the thinnest bead you can and assemble, it won't leak and is easy to remove later if necessary .

You have to try this stuff to believe it .
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-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 363,000 miles, just overhauled
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD 90K Miles ICE COLD AC ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 423,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Motos /5's SOLD
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk Rust
Arthritis Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &
Peace Of Mind
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